Step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall box. How to make shelves, boxes, niches and other drywall constructions with your own hands What to do

Drywall constructions are found in every home. Big and small, with regular shapes or bizarre outlines, they perform different functions. But they always make the rooms more beautiful and comfortable. At the same time, they are created easily and quickly with their own hands, even without special training. True, with a minimum set of materials and tools.

Appointment of a drywall box

Most often, a drywall box performs an aesthetic function.

Most often, drywall boxes perform an aesthetic function. They allow you to hide protruding risers, water pipes, ventilation systems and other communications, as well as disguise defects or surface irregularities.

Boxes are widely used in interior design for decorating or zoning rooms. They are used as the basis for tension or decorative ceilings. They are used to make arches, niches, partitions, portals for fireplaces, wardrobes and other pieces of furniture, as well as various architectural elements or decor details. Often, additional lighting elements, wiring and much more are arranged in boxes.

This versatility of a simple design is due to its advantages. Drywall itself is a material that is safe for humans, which is characterized by high strength and excellent fire-fighting properties.

At the same time, it is ordinary, fire and moisture resistant. This material is easy to work with. It is suitable for use in all types of rooms. Drywall constructions can be attached to walls or ceilings.

Device

The plasterboard box consists of a frame and sheathing. The frame itself can be made from a metal profile or wooden beam dimensions 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm, depending on the type of room and the location of the future structure.

Usually a metal frame is used for a drywall construction.

The metal frame is perfect option for kitchens, bathrooms and rooms with high humidity. Since the profile of galvanized steel is characterized by increased resistance to moisture, it does not rust or deform.

However, builders strongly recommend building a metal frame away from heating pipes. This is explained by the fact that the warm air currents emanating from them act on the metal, heating and expanding it. As a result, the appearance of the entire drywall construction runs the risk of being spoiled over time. Cracks will appear at the junction of the sheets, and the repair will have to be started anew.

A wooden frame will prevent such deformations. It is often used in residential areas, as it is characterized by a high degree of environmental friendliness and sound insulation. Especially with thermal deformations, which may be accompanied by box squeaks. However, before installation, it is better to treat it with special antiseptics or primers for wood, which will help extend its life and prevent rotting in case of increased humidity.

Sheathing is made of sheets or pre-prepared strips of drywall. They are fastened to a wooden frame with screws, and to a metal frame - thanks to self-tapping screws. But in both cases, they are screwed into the structure with a recess so that they can be plastered.

The frame elements are fastened together with dowels or self-tapping screws "fleas" with a drill tip, provided that a metal profile is used. Or hardened self-tapping screws in the case of a wooden beam.

The box can be equipped with a euro hatch, which will provide free access to pipe and battery taps

The plasterboard frame can be equipped with a euro hatch, which will provide the necessary access to pipe and battery taps, and be sealed mineral wool, coir and cork boards or styrofoam boards to improve sound and heat insulation.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to make a standard box, you will need the following materials:

drywall sheets, which you need to select based on the purpose of the structure - standard, fire or moisture resistant 9 or 12.5 mm thick;
rack and guide metal profiles dimensions 50x50 mm and 50x40 mm or wooden bars;
hangers for fastening profiles;
self-tapping screws;
dowels for fixing suspensions.

The following set of tools will allow you to work with them:

impact drill with a drill suitable for the material from which the walls are made, or a hammer drill;
a hammer;
knife for cutting drywall;
tape measure and pencil;
scissors for metal;
square;
screwdriver;
cutter;
bubble level.

Toolkit in the photo

Manufacturing steps

There are several ways to manufacture a structure, depending on the place of its attachment and purpose. But the technology is always the same. And it consists of several stages.

Surface preparation and marking

Proper surface marking is the key to quick and easy installation.

Walls and ceilings must be plastered or puttied before creating the box.. The most smooth and even surface to which the frame will be attached will extend its service life. Pipes and other communication systems, which can rust over time, must be cleaned, if necessary, damaged parts replaced, and then thoroughly primed and painted.

After complete drying, you can start marking. Beginning builders are advised by experts to first make a sketch, on the basis of which it will be possible to correctly mark up.

In the case of a horizontal box, marking is done on the walls, and with a vertical box, on the floor and ceiling. It's best to start from the bottom if possible.

Initially, marks are made through which lines are drawn. Their accuracy is checked by the building level. To determine the volume of the structure, the extreme attachment points are located corner element. After that, from the lines that determine the dimensions of the box, perpendiculars are drawn down to its end parts. The construction corner will allow you to control their perpendicularity with respect to surfaces and to each other.

When marking up, you need to take into account that drywall will be mounted on top of the frame itself. It follows from this that the dimensions of the structure will differ from the markup made by the thickness of the purchased sheet. When sheathing pipes or ventilation systems, it is important to leave a gap of at least 3-5 cm between them and the duct on all sides.

Experts advise choosing a width finished construction considering future finishes. If the box will be decorated with tiles, it is better to make sure that its width is equal to the width of 1 whole tile or their total number. Otherwise, the ceramics will have to be cut. And it's quite a hassle.

When creating decorative ceilings, markings can be done on the floor, and then transferred using a plumb line. To simplify the marking on the wall will allow a stretched thread, which connects the corresponding points on the floor and on the ceiling.

Frame manufacturing

One of the most important steps in the implementation installation work is the construction of a metal frame on which drywall will be attached

A drill with a suitable drill or puncher makes holes for the dowels. Initially, guide profiles are attached to the wall, floor or ceiling. After that, rack-mounts are cut. They are fixed in the guides at a right angle with the help of self-tapping screws for metal. The step between the rack profiles should be 40–60 cm. It is better to screw in the screws at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other. To give the frame the necessary strength and rigidity, a guide is mounted along the edge of the rack profile.

By creating corner option(for sheathing a riser or pipes) of two walls with a width of more than 25 cm and a height of over 1.5 m, it is better to take care of additional jumpers between the support posts in increments of up to 1 m. If the riser is located in the middle of the wall, you will need three walls.

When installing a wooden frame, it is important not to forget to treat the saw cuts with an antiseptic and let it dry completely.

When creating complex geometric shapes on the ceiling, it is better to pre-draw them on the surface. They will serve as an excellent guide for attaching profiles.

A cable or electrical wiring is laid in the finished frame.

Immediately before sheathing, you need to prepare drywall. If necessary, it is cut, marked and sawn in such a way that the structure consists of solid strips. At this stage, using a drill and a crown, holes are made in it for lighting and European hatches.

The process of plasterboard sheathing also has its own characteristics, in particular, it always begins with the closing of the side walls

Initially, sheets for the side walls are cut off. Their width is adjusted to the width of the face. After that, the measurement is taken from the remaining face, and a new strip is cut along it, but with a margin, since it should go to the edges of the side faces.

After preparing all the strips, you can begin to attach them to the frame. It is carried out using self-tapping screws 35–45 mm long every 15–25 cm. Sheets are screwed only to the main racks of the frame. In addition, it is not worth screwing them to jumpers in small structures.

The final step is gluing the corners on starting putty

After fixing all the sheets, puttying and forming corners are carried out using perforated corners. They are fixed on a thin layer of starting putty and covered with finishing. In order to prevent their delamination, it is better to use products from one manufacturer. After that, grouting with a large and fine mesh is performed.

Design options

Putty is applied to the finished drywall construction. After complete drying, it can be painted, pasted with wallpaper or ceramic tiles..

One of the most spectacular options for the design of the box is the backlight of the LED strip.

Ceiling structures are best supplemented with lighting. Often it is performed using an LED strip, which can be installed in pre-prepared niches. The main thing is to cut and solder it correctly. Otherwise, it may fail or overheat. It's also important to make sure that the tape's wiring can handle the power generated by joining multiple pieces. And do not forget about the polarity, on which the smooth operation of the entire backlight depends.

Video instruction for mounting the box

Beautiful drywall construction able to give coziness and comfort to any home. What’s more, anyone can do it. The main thing is a sincere desire to understand the technology. And want to create something special.

Transform your own home with your own hands! Believe in yourself, and you will definitely succeed!

The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful because of the pipes that can be seen from everywhere. If you hide them, then the bathroom can be transformed. Therefore, they use a drywall box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. Also, with the help of a box, you can think of additional lighting.

The box is mainly needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and not frightened by their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.

You can always leave the hatch to have access to water meters

If you make a vertical box in a drywall bathroom with your own hands, then you can equip it with additional spotlights, which will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to the classic version, when the lighting is located on a horizontal structure. In both options, it is necessary to get confused with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, fixtures and equipment for working in rooms with a high moisture content.

Summing up the intermediate result, we can say that the drywall box in the bathroom has the following functional purposes:

Hides sewer pipes.
Hides water pipes.
Serves as a base for shelves.
Serves as the basis for lighting.

Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. It also depends on how it is installed. It is one thing to make a thin box for a drywall bath and quite another to mount a wide box right under the ceiling.

Preparatory work

In order for the workflow to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe you need to hide, so it remains only to think about the dimensions of the future structure, it is enough to step back from the pipe by 2-5 centimeters in both directions and fix the profile there. Such a distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.

When sheathing a vertical pipe, it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it can have a certain slope. The pipe will recede as much as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to step back a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.

The drawing itself can be created on a sheet for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using the drawing. Before you make a drywall box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark up. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.

Marking for the box in the middle of the room

As already mentioned above, with the help of a plumb line, points on the floor and on the ceiling near the walls are indicated. With the help of this simple device, they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a paint cord or profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides are attached.

Now, from the marked points, you will need to draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.

After a simple markup, you need to cut the GKL into strips of the required size so as not to fool around in a small space with large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box of 25 * 25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material is still there.

Frame installation

The drywall box in the bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or the wiring pipes are hidden. For work you will need:

self-tapping screws for metal;
dowel;
guide and rack profiles;
metal scissors;
screwdriver and perforator;
level.

Profiles are joined to each other at right angles.

A solid guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. For its installation, it is necessary to take dowels 40 mm long and fasten the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After that, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is fixed in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20 cm, two dowels are needed, one is not enough). At the junction of the profiles, they do not need to be screwed to each other, this will be done at the time of plasterboard sheathing.

Condensation often appears on the pipes, which flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don't have to worry about what happens to hidden pipes.

For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a drywall box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. And one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it is at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, it is the CD profile that is needed, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post is not really attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.

If you do not glue the tiles on the box, then you can use the usual guides

The rack will be firmly fixed during the installation of drywall. It will go into the guides quite tightly and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits snugly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in this case classics of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.

Jumpers for extra strength and hatch

Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a drywall box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in 40-60 cm increments between the B-pillar and the wall rails. As a result, the design will be more reliable. Drywall will be attached to the racks, which will make the surface of the box stronger and more even. The jumpers themselves can be made both from the CD profile and from the UD (whatever you have left). If the jumper is from a rack profile, then it easily enters the guides.

Jumpers can be fastened with a notcher to avoid bumps from screw heads

If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off several centimeters of ribs from both sides of the jumper, while leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that they can go between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be attached. They need to be fixed with metal screws.

Sometimes it is required to leave a viewing window in the box for the counter or other needs. Therefore, it is necessary to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Just insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.

Plasterboard sheathing and finishing

Only moisture resistant drywall can be used. It traditionally has a greenish color. The cut sheets of GKL are fixed first on one side of the box, and then on the second. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will come out more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in 15 cm increments. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, in this place not only the GKL is attached, but profiles are also fastened to each other. It is also necessary to fasten drywall in places where jumpers are installed.

The heads of the self-tapping screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but do not stick out either. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the cap is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.

Now it’s clear how to assemble a drywall box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, putty all the caps of the screws, as well as all the joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. Joints must be primed beforehand so that the putty holds better. A reinforcing mesh is used to reinforce the joints.

Careful attention must be paid to all points in preparation for finishing. The above procedures should be followed carefully, and then the entire GKL box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, and these are high loads. Therefore, the design must be durable, and the putty should not lag behind. Do not forget the antifungal additives, but these are the nuances of the finish.

If you need to sheathe more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you deal with such nuances.

Hello to all readers of our super site about super finishing. This time we decided to roll out for you a small educational material on the topic of a drywall box with our own hands - it will be step-by-step instruction with photo. The box is one of the most common designs made of this material. Most often, the boxes are used to close the cold water / hot water risers, heating, sewerage, and ventilation. Just the ventilation ducts in the kitchen, we will hide in our example.

The assembly technology is not affected in any way by what exactly we hide.

Typical box on the ceiling

Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
Sealing tape Dichtungsband
Separating tape
“Dowel-nails” (another name is “Quick installation”) 6 × 40 mm (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm)
Cord breaking device
Laser level, or bubble, or, at worst, hydro level
Gyproc plasterboard sheets 2500x1200x12.5
Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
Roulette
A hammer
Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
Perforator + drill
screwdriver
Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
Deep penetration primer (Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
Metal shears or grinder
Narrow and wide spatulas

Mounting the box: step by step instructions.

Step 1. Markup

Naturally, our first step will be marking the guide profiles on the walls and ceiling. Suppose, if you plan to make a box 450 mm wide, then the profile on the ceiling should be located at a distance of 437.5 mm, this is very often forgotten. It's the same with height. If you want to lower the structure by 200 mm from the ceiling, then the frame will go at a distance of 187.5 mm. For marking, we use a level and a cord breaker, or a laser. Here is such an orgy we get:

Box marking lines

Step 2. Fixing the PN

Along these lines we will fasten guide profiles, those that are 27 × 28 mm. This is traditionally done with dowel-nails 6x40 mm. It often happens that in a hollow brick and other shit, such fasteners do not hold well. In such cases, we recommend using ordinary nylon dowels and thick self-tapping screws with a press washer (thickness 4.2-4.8 mm). At this point, the framework will look like this:

Fixed Mon

ceiling box frame

Step 3. Mounting the side faces and jumpers

The most convenient option for mounting the boxes is to sew on the ceiling rails of the finished side parts. By finished parts, we mean GKL strips cut to size with PN already sewn on them. That is, we cut off a GKL strip on the floor in advance, for example, 185 cm wide. We sew a guide profile on it right away so that it protrudes slightly beyond the drywall “from below”. Then, when it is mounted on ceiling rails, we can immediately control its height using a laser or a cord. Raise or lower as needed. But remember one thing - the sheet should not rest against the ceiling, there should always be a gap of at least 2 mm.

Attachment of side sheets

In reality, the installation of the sidewalls looks something like this

You can do it a little differently. First, sew drywall, and then attach a profile to it in weight. But it is objectively more difficult. When all the sidewalls are screwed, you can cut and insert into the guide segments of the ceiling profiles. Usually we take a step of 60 cm, this is neither too much nor too little. These segments should be slightly shorter (by 10-15 mm) than the distance between the PNs, nothing should stand by surprise. In addition, we never attach ceiling profiles to rails, we simply insert them into each other.

Jumpers made of PP 60×27

Real box from GK

Step 4 Attaching the Bottom Faces

Now it's the turn of the bottom. In general, everything is simple here, sheets of the desired width are simply cut off and attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. But here it is important not to miss one important detail - the side faces must be strictly vertical, and we will have to achieve this manually just at the stage of mounting the bottom sheets. The point is that we must screw the sheet to the wall rail and lintels, but not temporarily fix it to the side rail. After that, we control the verticality of the sidewalls with a short bubble level. Somewhere we press a little towards the walls, somewhere we pull it back. Then, making sure of the result, we screw the sheet with self-tapping screws to the sidewall.

In the case when it is not possible to pull off the side face, the following life hack helps. We screw a long screw into the sidewall guide profile right through the drywall and pull it towards ourselves with the help of pliers. Done, we get the following intermediate result:

The process of mounting the lower faces

Step 5. Sealing joints and mounting the corner

The joints of the drywall strips on the box are sealed in the same way as in other cases with the Civil Code. You can learn the essence and subtleties of technology HERE. As for the formation of the outer corner, there are three ways. The first one is metal. perforated corner. It is quite simple to install, but it spoils the geometry of the box quite badly. You can partially get out of the situation if you mount drywall on the corner with the factory side, then the corner will deepen there.

Installing the KNAUF corner

The second way is metallized corner paper tape, it is more modern version. The tape protects the corner more reliably, makes it clearer, distorts the geometry of the structure much less, but it is much more difficult to find it in hardware stores. It is glued to a polymer finish like Rotband Pasta, just like in our example.

Sheetrock metalized corner tape in action

General view of our box

The third way is GKL milling, but this is certainly not for home craftsmen. The bottom line is that with the help of a milling cutter and a special cutter, a longitudinal groove is made in the drywall body, a bend is made exactly 90 degrees along it, and we can get both the sidewall and the bottom in one part, as in the photo:

Milled box

After sealing the joints and installing the corner, our box is polished and after priming it is ready for puttying for painting:

Fully finished plasterboard box

All is ready. Beauty, isn't it?)) If you liked our lesson, feel free to subscribe to updates. We will cut the truth and tear the covers. See you soon!

In contact with

Very often, during repairs, there is a need to hide certain structural elements, for example, heating radiators installed outside. Naturally, residents often want to hide them in order to make the interior more aesthetic. Undoubtedly, the fact that heating radiators are located outside allows you to access them at any time, for example, for repair or replacement.

But domestic builders very often install heating radiators, to put it mildly, not quite beautifully and neatly. Very often, pipes are installed crookedly and look completely ugly. When pasting walls with wallpaper, pipes and radiators create additional difficulties, since it is very difficult to paste behind them. Therefore, an excellent solution to hide these shortcomings is to create a drywall box.

As a result of creating such a box, the process of wallpapering is greatly simplified, and it is also possible to hide all the "blunders" that were made by the builders.

Our main task is to carry out all the stages of repair with our own hands, therefore, we will describe in detail the process of creating a drywall box. At the same time, you will be able to show your creativity and skills. We emphasize that working with drywall is quite simple and everyone can create the required elements from it.

The process of preparing for the manufacture of drywall boxes

The first step is to prime and paint the pipes, which will later be placed in our box. These operations are performed to protect pipes from the occurrence of corrosive processes, and also extend the life of the heating system of your house or apartment. Each of these tasks does not require special knowledge or experience, so they can be completed without much difficulty.

Next, you need to deal with the elimination of holes in the ceiling that spoil the view. These holes are located next to the pipes leading to the upper floors. Sometimes these holes cause horror in the master, as they can be quite large and it seems that the builders simply did not take up work in this area. You can get rid of these holes using mounting foam and a special plaster mixture. The last step in the preparatory cycle is to wait for the moment when all the solutions have dried.

Starting to make a box

When preparatory stage came to an end, it's time for the main part of the work - the manufacture of the box. It is one thing when the task is to cover a wall or other structure with drywall sheets, and another thing is to build a certain structure from this material. Boxes are very often made in bathrooms and serve to cover pipes. Such an operation often precedes wall decoration. tiles. In this case, all the work is a little more complicated and we will consider a simpler option - creating a box for heating pipelines.

In the work, a mandatory item is the presence of profiles. They should be chosen in such a way that there are stiffeners. To solve our problem, a ceiling profile is perfect, which is easy to find in any hardware store. Very often you can find the same profiles with different stiffness coefficients. Rigid profiles should be chosen, as this will give structural strength. But you should not buy the most rigid profile, since in this case it will be problematic to screw a self-tapping screw into it at the stage of drywall construction. Even a screwdriver sometimes cannot cope with the toughest profiles, and you certainly won’t be able to twist it by hand. It is also worth mentioning that a very rigid profile, having a large thickness, will spring strongly, and at this time the self-tapping screw will repel the drywall from the profile, which greatly complicates the task. And if in this case you continue to screw in the self-tapping screw, then this can lead to the appearance of cracks on the drywall, and the head of the self-tapping screw in this case will be strongly drowned. As a result, getting a destroyed hole, it will not be possible to achieve a strong fastening of the sheet of material.

It's time to move on to the process of making the box itself. This will require the presence of three vertical profiles, the height of which will be from floor to ceiling. You also need short jumpers that can be made from scraps. In our case, there is a 27x28 profile, which is perfect for making jumpers from it.

Consider the sequence of actions for the most optimal course of the process. Fixing two vertical profiles to the wall will not cause any difficulties, but the question immediately arises: how to fix the third profile? In this case, it is best to use fasteners that are used to work with profiles - the developers took care of us and saved our time. We fix a direct suspension under one profile, then you need to bend the ends. The entire surface of the suspensions, as you can see, has a lot of prepared holes that will help you position the profile with high accuracy.

Creating a box will help us align the corner, so we need the most accurate guideline in our work, which will not allow us to go astray. An excellent solution would be to use a laser level, which has excellent accuracy and allows you to create strictly defined angles.

First, you should draw perpendicular lines on the floor. Errors in this matter cannot be allowed, even the slightest of its magnitude. Next, go directly to the walls. The vertical laser beam of our miracle level device will help you install two profiles on the walls with high accuracy, and also create all the necessary conditions for high-quality positioning of the third profile. This profile must be installed on the short side of the box. Its fastening should be carried out using a suspension. The level in this case allows you to perform tasks in the best possible way and is an indispensable element in the manufacture of drywall boxes.

Note that each vertical profile, which seems to be firmly fixed to the wall, is capable of deforming. Therefore, to create a fortification that prevents the mentioned problem, we create horizontal jumpers. To do this, you need to make cuts along the bends of the profile with metal scissors. Then you need to bend the middle element perpendicularly. Having made several such jumpers, we fix them with self-tapping screws, which allows us to achieve high strength. Now our design is characterized by high stability and will not deform, which will help maintain the evenness of drywall sheets.

The moment has come when it is necessary to cut drywall. First of all, you need to cut out the elements intended for the wide side, then cut out the pieces for the narrow side. If you think about it, the sequence of preparing drywall pieces is not of fundamental importance, and these operations can change quite successfully - the end result will not change.

Note that the fastening of drywall sheets to a box made of a profile is easier than the process of installing a structure from a profile. At this moment, you will feel that the finish line is already close and it will become more pleasant to work, because an excellent result awaits ahead.

The main inconvenience encountered during the installation of a box made of drywall is the operation of screwing screws on the inside, since the dimensions of the box are small and the screwdriver will not be able to crawl into all the necessary areas. Also, do not forget that drywall strips are quite flexible and can easily crack, therefore, when screwing screws, you should feel the applied force well and not overdo it. Indeed, otherwise, you will need to cut a new piece of material that will replace the piece that was broken due to strong pressure from the self-tapping screw. The distance from the edge of the drywall sheet to the self-tapping screw should not be less than 15 mm, otherwise the material will break easily.

Summing up, I would like to note that making a drywall box is a fairly simple task and it will not require you a lot of effort, time and special knowledge, as well as experience. Following this instruction, showing patience, ingenuity, accuracy, you can create a real masterpiece with right angles. In the future, the presence of such a box will positively affect the beauty of your interior. Having tried the manufacture of plasterboard figures, everyone will open up new possibilities and be able to create unique things that cannot be found anywhere else. This building technology is now available to everyone due to the presence detailed description process. Study, try and do not be afraid to make mistakes - then new heights in this area await you!

Using your imagination and gaining experience during the manufacture of drywall boxes, you can create new solutions for your home by making, for example, boxes for pipes in the bathroom. Each time, complicating the task, you gain invaluable experience, which in the future will help to carry out any elements using drywall. After all, this material is very easy to cut and allows you to make even complex figures out of it - it all depends only on the imagination of the master. Set yourself new tasks, achieve your goal and the repair will become a truly joyful event for you.

In almost every overhaul, and sometimes even cosmetically, a situation arises in which it is necessary to hide some communications or other devices “into the wall”. Often this applies to bathrooms, kitchens and corridors.

We are mainly talking about pipes, but sometimes you have to hide structural features of the building, for example, beams or columns. Most often, this problem occurs in the secondary housing market in typical houses that were built without regard for aesthetic beauty or special amenities.

Appointment and placement

In order to ennoble the room and avoid visual or other inconveniences, there is a very simple way to solve the problem: sew it into a drywall case. But it is not necessary to dwell on drywall: there are also plastic panels, and chipboard, and other materials, but the peculiarity of such materials is that they are well suited for something more specific. But drywall is a universal remedy for solving such problems.

Of its advantages, it can be emphasized that it is better suited for processing and performing non-standard tasks that arise during repairs.

When choosing further finishing materials drywall is more versatile, because it allows you to use almost all types of finishes.

In a drywall box you can put:

wardrobe;
television;
sink;
curtains under the cornice at the top;
heating batteries;
backlight with LED strip;
installations and so on.

You can make such a design in the bedroom, and in the living room, and in any other room of the house.

Forms

The shapes can be absolutely anything that your imagination allows you, but regular geometric shapes are the most common, of which the most popular is rectangular. But there are also options with a round shape, but the circle is made not only with the help of drywall, but also when finishing this workpiece.

Triangular shapes are almost never used, but it is quite possible to realize them - it all depends on skill and imagination. More corner and oblique boxes are popular today.

Kinds

An important element in the execution of a drywall box is the profile on which it is mounted. The profile, like any other material, is available in various sizes. Sometimes it turns out that the profile seems to be of the same size does not converge, one is slightly shorter than the other (in width). In order to avoid such a situation, drywall profiles should be taken from one batch and from one manufacturer. The main profile sizes and their functional purpose, where UD is the guide profile, and CD is the main profile.

UD 27/28, CD 60/27- profiles are common for all types of premises, but not for stretch ceilings. They are used in rooms whose length does not exceed 5 meters.

UD 50/40 and CD 50/50- profiles for floor and wall ducts that allow mechanical and physical stress. Also applied to multi-level ceilings, in rooms with a length of more than 5 meters. Sometimes used for decorative boxes.
UD 50/40 and CD 75/50- approximately the same as the previous size, but allows the installation of stretch ceilings (in rooms with a length of no more than 5 meters), but not recommended for floor boxes.
UD 75/40 and CD 75/50, UD 100/40 and CD 100/50- all of the above, but with a room length of more than 8 meters, suitable for verandas, terraces.

What is needed for manufacturing?

To install a drywall box, you will need a certain set of tools, without which a quality repair will not work:

roulette;
level - at least 1 meter, preferably with a horizontal and vertical level, if there is also a diagonal one, some tasks can be simplified;
perforator with a drill for concrete;
screwdriver with self-tapping screws;
Phillips screwdriver;
paint knife;
a hammer;
pencil.

A sheet of drywall is also necessary, because it is a key link in the formation of the box. Depending on the purpose, it is worth taking drywall sheets: moisture resistant for sanitary facilities, fire resistant if special equipment is sewn up, which is flammable.

In addition to it, more profiles are needed: guide and main. The box itself will be attached to them, they act as a frame. Sometimes wooden bars are used as a profile, but these profiles do not pass any criticism.: wood at high humidity begins to loosen, and defects may appear in the box, but you can not mention that the wood burns.

Even if you spend extra money on impregnating wood with fire-fighting chemicals and moisture-resistant chemicals, it turns out that the price of such a frame will exceed the price of metal, and by an order of magnitude. Regarding environmental friendliness: a board impregnated with chemicals is several times less environmentally friendly than a metal counterpart.

How to do it yourself?

It is necessary to begin installation with the preparation of adjacent surfaces. The wall, ceiling and floor (depending on the junction) must be cleared to the ground, otherwise it will take a very long and expensive time to straighten the plane. Installation begins with measurements and application to the surface of the required dimensions.

It is important to remember that the distance between the pipe and the nearest profile boundary should be 3 - 5 cm on all sides. If the box is made under the tile, then it is better to measure the width of the tile and make a box equal to this size in order to avoid trimming.

After that, a guide profile is tried on and cut out on the necessary sections. When the profile is ready, it is screwed to the surfaces with dowels. It is best to screw the horizontal profile according to the level so that the structure is even and strong. As soon as the guides are ready, corners are made from the same profile (if the structure does not end in the wall or floor).

If the length of the box is more than 1.5 meters, then it is necessary to make jumpers from the guide profile to strengthen the structure. After that, the main profile is cut out. Depending on the length and width of the structure, it can go both along and across the structure, but the step must be at least half a meter. All this is fastened with metal screws.

The next step is the installation of the drywall sheets themselves. To do this, accurate measurements of the required surface are made, and the sheets are cut with a paint knife. An incision is made along the level or along the marked line (depending on the strength of the hands and the eye) about half the sheet, after which the sheet is carefully knocked out from the reverse side, that is, it breaks along the notch. It is important to remember that sheets should not protrude beyond the edges of the frame, meaning side. But the front front sheet is cut out last to the edges of the already mounted box.

Sheets are attached in increments of 25 - 30 cm to the main guide profile. It is also better to look at how pressed the sheet is to the profile so that there are no sagging and other things. After mounting the side sheets, it is necessary to mount the facade sheet according to the same principle, but it is only advisable to look at the already mounted ones so that the self-tapping screws do not touch each other.

After the installation of the sheets is completed, they can be sharpened with sandpaper, if necessary, erasing irregularities. After bringing the corners to normal, you need to glue the perforated corners on the drywall (in extreme cases, on the starting putty), using the level, and then leave them to dry for a day. But you can also smear the heads of the screws for the convenience of applying the next layer. In cases where tiles are laid, and the wall is not puttied, corners are not needed, the tiles are laid according to the usual scenario. After finishing preparatory work the box is ready for finishing work.

But there are a few points that must be considered when building a box, for technical reasons.

It is impossible to sew up a pipe of a riser or a sewer drain without leaving a connector under the window for revision. And it is also impossible to close water and gas meters without a special window, and it is worth hiding the hood only if the entire surface has a special removable door, and the sheet itself has a degree of fire resistance not lower than required.

If you decide to assemble the device from the GKL yourself, then you will need step-by-step instructions. The box can be with diode lighting, which is easy to install. Ventilation and waterproofing must also be present.

Box features

The box is actually simple design, consisting of profiles and sheets of drywall. But it is necessary to remember those communications that this design closes, therefore, during installation, one must remember both the aesthetic beauty of the structure and the practical application of the structure.

Installation of a sewer riser box

All sewer risers have a special hole - a revision. This hole is used to clear and check for blockages in the riser. This place cannot be completely closed., it is necessary to leave a hole for the dormer window. The size of this window should exceed the revision diameter by one and a half to two times and have a special door.

Such dimensions are due to the inconvenience when performing plumbing work and there is a possibility that during an emergency repair the plumber will accidentally break the box. Special doors are sold in almost any store and in different sizes.

Before making a special hole in the box, you must already have ready-made options (or know the dimensions by heart) so as not to make a hole too large. And also when installing the box on the sewer riser, it is worth looking at other holes that may be needed to repair the riser itself and provide them with appropriate windows.

It is worth remembering that the revision should always be located on the front side overlooking the entrance (exit). This is a mandatory requirement, and without it, you can easily demolish part of the box to gain access to the revision.

water mains

The principle of mounting the box is the same. Holes for windows are also needed, but already at the places where water meters are attached, on all valves (usually they are located in one or two places), on gearboxes and check valves. It is advisable to sign from the inside the purpose of a particular valve or gearbox so that in a critical or emergency situation you do not have to demolish part of the box, trying to understand what these or those pipes go to.

With a large fork in the mains, it would be best to provide each window with a door with a diagram of the pipes passing through it.

Maybe this action will seem strange to you, but during the repair, the plumber will thank you very much and will do his job much faster. The main thing is efficiency in access to the necessary valves and main channels, the location is not so important, even if the door with the valve looks in the opposite corner from the entrance.

When the pipes are taken out of the box, holes are made whose diameter is larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. Empty space in drywall is usually filled with foam or plain masking tape.. This is due to the fact that there are different weather conditions or the technical condition of pipes: it is common for metal and any other materials used to play at temperature - they increase and decrease.

Of course, this is less true for plastic pipes or metal-plastic pipes, but there is a mechanical impact or a human factor. For example, someone accidentally hit a pipe and, with the help of vibrations, it destroyed part or all of the drywall box. Therefore, in order to avoid such situations make holes larger in diameter than the pipe itself. But also, if you do not want to separately buy doors to windows, then you can make a window from drywall, but then you need a handle and door hinges(small).

Finishing and decor

Almost the entire range of modern possibilities can be used as finishing materials. interior decoration, but often the most popular way to finish the drywall box in the bathroom and toilet is tiling except for the ceiling.

Since the box is flat and flat, laying tiles will be a quick way to renovate a room. And also suitable for laying mosaic tiles, tiles with a cut at 45 degrees (produces the effect of a monolithic wall).