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How to make facing tiles - artificial stone - with your own hands. How to make decorative bricks Mold for facade tiles with your own hands

Let's consider two options for tile production. The first is made of concrete, which is much more accessible to most people. You will need white Portland cement, sand and small crushed stone, as well as lime or another plasticizer. Be sure to use modifiers to increase frost resistance and water repellency.

The principle of making concrete tiles by vibration casting is as follows: the mass is poured into a mold, then the blanks are placed on the vibrating table platform and the equipment is turned on. After removing air and compacting, the molds are dried.

To color concrete tiles, pigment is poured into the liquid mass at the mixing stage. A more economical option is to apply paint to the inside of the mold.

Use of polyurethane matrices

Clinker tiles are made slightly differently. The clay mass is mixed with modifiers, then it is poured into a vibropressing machine, which forms blanks by compressing the mass under pressure and vibrating it. After this, the clay is allowed to dry and sent to the kiln to fire. For clinker and porcelain stoneware, the temperature is raised to 1300 degrees, for terracotta - to 1000.

Types of stone-look facade tiles

At one time in Western Europe there was a search for a material that was not inferior in its properties to stone, thus, by firing and pressing clay with brick, this product was obtained. The meaning of the word tile has its roots in the German language, and is literally translated as “brick”. Factory-made clinker tiles have a durable composition due to heat treatment and are only a type of ceramics, having their own advantages over it.

It is very easy to make independently, its technology is simple, and, as a budget option, fits well.

Initially, you need to prepare a model of the product itself from plasticine, coated with sealant and wait for it to dry. Afterwards, a solution of gypsum, sand and cement is prepared, color is added, the ingredients are mixed and poured into molds. 15 minutes are enough for the product to be ready, and in order to prevent it from crumbling and smearing, it should be treated with a primer. It is worth keeping in mind that a handmade product will have different characteristics from its factory counterpart. The versatility of the material is surprising; its choice is limited only by the preferences and capabilities of homeowners.

You can make facade tiles to look like stone yourself

There are several types:

  • Under natural stone;
  • Clinker tiles;
  • Under ordinary brick.

Houses made of natural stone look very catchy and beautiful; this material has all the advantages, such as durability, strength, and a presentable appearance. But, there is one big disadvantage - the cost.

Facade tiles

Facade tiles are mainly used if it is not possible to carry out facing work using bricks. Tiles do not have a load-bearing function, and when a wall is erected, such material is not involved in installation. The cladding is carried out after the wall has been erected..

The thickness of façade tiles is generally 14mm. Considering this thickness parameter, the method of covering a wall with this material can be called gluing. For reliable fastening to the wall surface, a special adhesive composition is applied to the tiles. Using tiles, you can cladding not only the exterior of the building, but also the interior.

Among the variety of tiles, the following can be distinguished::

  1. Clinker room. It has a high level of density and has a wide variety of geometric shapes in which it is produced.
  2. Porcelain stoneware. It has become quite popular in recent years. The shape in which it can often be seen is a square or rectangle. It is quite large in size, making it not only profitable to use, but also convenient, since installation is simple and does not take much time.
  3. Polymer sand. The main purpose of this type of material is decoration. Thanks to this type of tile material, a wide variety of design ideas can be realized.

There are also less popular types, such as:

  • ceramic;
  • basement;
  • under a stone;
  • under brick;
  • basement

Necessary equipment

The equipment for making facade tiles with your own hands depends on the raw materials used. The easiest way is to use concrete. To make tiles you need a good mold and a vibrating table.

The form can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or polyurethane. The best material is polyurethane. Using it you can convey the texture of the future tile in the smallest detail. Due to this, you can ideally create an imitation of natural stone and other building materials.

A large number of home craftsmen make a vibrating table on their own. This requires a metal frame, a sheet of metal or other material for the tabletop, a motor from washing machine and springs.

Vibropressing technology is also used in the production of facade tiles. Thanks to its use, the density of raw materials is reduced without a large amount of water.

In some cases, a kiln is used to ensure that terracotta, clinker or porcelain tiles are fully prepared. In these furnaces, the workpiece is fired at a temperature of 1 thousand to 3 thousand degrees.

note
Main advantage self-made tiles - the ability to give it the desired shape and texture. You can experiment to make exclusive products, for example, make a non-standard shape or use a different composition of raw materials.

Purpose, range of forms for artificial stone

We offer a wide range of matrices for the production of facing and facade tiles of various shapes, textures, and sizes. In the catalog of the Formpark online store you will find products made from polyurethane, regular and ABC plastic. Each material has its own advantages. A common feature of the matrices is their reusable use, long service life and the possibility of obtaining an attractive product in the final result.

Polyurethane molds for facing stones and tiles for house facades are durable and economical in the production process itself, since there is no need to purchase special additional equipment to use them.

Matrices made of ABS and PVC plastic from Standardpark and European manufacturers Taboss, Alpha are characterized by impact resistance and a large number of possible fills.

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Finished products that are produced using these matrices ideally imitate rock or another type of building material (cobblestones, bricks, gas blocks, wood, etc.). This type of cladding is very popular because it makes the façade of the building richer and more sophisticated. Instead of building a facade from natural stone, they simply use a concrete textured analogue. Injection plastic dies for making stone exactly repeat the lines and irregularities of natural material, sometimes so believably that you can’t even tell the difference. This is profitable and allows you to save money.

If at the time of manufacture you add the necessary iron oxide pigment to the solution, you can get a tile of the required color, or simply paint it in the desired color after its installation. Artificial stone is lighter in weight than real stone, so it is easier to transport it to its destination, and it is even better to organize production nearby and avoid transportation altogether.

The assortment is very large - at least 65 varieties of matrices. The price is favorable! You can ask our manager or get an answer by email. Therefore, buy molds for facade tiles from the manufacturer in the Formpark online store. Make, use, sell, grow your business!

Materials and equipment

To make tiles with your own hands, you do not need industrial-sized premises. This work can be organized in a barn, garage or even outside under a canopy. Tiles can be made from various materials. So, the basis for manufacturing can be the following types of material:

  1. Concrete.
  2. Starting putty.
  3. Alabaster.
  4. Gypsum.
  5. Clay.

At home, it is preferable to produce facade tiles using vibration casting technology. Clinker tiles, despite their obvious quality and strength, require firing. This requires special equipment, which is incompatible with savings.

The solution that is poured into molds may contain various fillers that give the finished product a certain appearance and properties.

The following materials can be used as a solution filler:

  1. Sand.
  2. Small shells.
  3. Plasticizers.
  4. Dyes.
  5. Glitter.
  6. Glass chips.

Considering that no load will be applied to the tiles, the main task in its production will be to get rid of air bubbles, which can cause cracking and destruction in extreme cold.

Based on this, you will need the following tools and equipment to produce facade tiles with your own hands:

  • vibrating table;
  • concrete mixer;
  • hammer drill with mixer;
  • trowel;
  • wide spatula;
  • trays for molds made of plastic;
  • old bathtub or plastic water tank with a capacity of 100 liters;
  • form;
  • drying cabinet for placing molds.

If the home owner is not in a big hurry, then to make the solution there is no need to purchase a concrete mixer, but prepare the solution in small portions of 10-12 liters in buckets using a hammer drill with an attachment. A vibrating table is quite convenient equipment for the production of facade tiles. But given its cost, you can either make an analogue yourself, or vibrate manually.

Plastic cladding

Plastic cladding has recently become increasingly widespread.

PVC trim

Flexible PVC trim is very easy to install.

PVC tiles are made from amorphous polyvinyl chloride. Talc, wood flour, filler and plasticizer are added to it.

Element sizes:

  • 15x15;
  • 20x20;
  • 30x30 cm.

Slab thickness- 1–2 mm. They can have different colors and designs.

Polyvinyl chloride is resistant to aggressive chemical environments and is moisture resistant, so cladding made from it can be used in damp rooms.

A shower cabin lined with such material will last a very long time.

Polystyrene boards

Polystyrene cladding can only be installed inside the house.

Polystyrene tiles began to be produced recently. It is used for finishing interior walls and partitions. The façade cannot be covered with it.

Element sizes:

  • 10x10;
  • 10×15;
  • 10×30 cm.

Their thickness- 1.35 mm.

This lining is glued to polymer mastic. For better adhesion, sills are made on its back side along the edges, and square convexities are made along the entire surface.

The colors, patterns and textures of polystyrene cladding are very diverse.

Advantages of polystyrene finishing:

  1. High strength.
  2. Light weight.
  3. Variety of colors and textures. This type of wild stone coating is very popular. “Coconut” tiles are also common.

Flaws:

  1. The coating cannot withstand high temperatures.
  2. It has a short service life.
  3. Polystyrene has low fire resistance.
  4. He is afraid of organic solvents.

Quartz vinyl

Quartz-vinyl coating has increased strength.

The composition of this finish includes 60–80% quartz, 10–15% vinyl, as well as pigments, a plasticizer and a stabilizer. The material is used for cladding indoor floors.

Advantages of coverage:

  1. High strength.
  2. Low thermal conductivity.
  3. Moisture resistance.

Manufacturing process

The entire process that needs to be completed in order to create facade tiles with your own hands can be divided into several stages.

Such as:

  • creating forms;
  • preparing the solution;
  • final stage;
  • Direct receipt of the finished product.

Making molds from polyurethane

Initially, you need to decide appearance tiles to be made. In addition, you need to determine all the parameters of its dimensions.

It is very important to correctly make its front surface. For simplicity, you can use ready-made products made of natural stone, which you need to imitate

In order to make the mold, you need to use a two-component polyurethane casting compound. Such solutions have the required level performance characteristics, which remain with the finished product.

The whole process can be represented as follows:

  1. For the base, you can use a piece of plexiglass, the size of which is slightly larger than the area of ​​the stone. It should be placed face up.
  2. After this, it is necessary to measure the level at which the sample stone exceeds and draw a contour for the construction of future formwork. The height of the formwork should exceed the sample by 2 cm.
  3. The stone, having been removed from the base using silicone sealant, is attached to the plexiglass, adhering to the applied contour on the formwork.
  4. After the solution has been poured into the formwork for the mold, it is necessary to wait some time for it to harden. Often it takes 24 hours for this process.

How to buy molds for facade tiles

In order to place an order, you need to fill out a form, you can download it from the link. You can also call the phone number listed on the website or write by email. We will answer all your questions.

Mold for warm tiles “Smooth brick”ABS price: 1600 RUR

Mold for warm tiles “Lugansk stone”ABS price: 1600 RUR

Mold for warm tiles “Athensian masonry” ABS price: 1600 RUR

Plastic molds “Shell rock”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Rocky Mountain” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Leningrad Stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Arbat”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Bridge stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Big sandstone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Nubby”Price ABS: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “English large”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Limestone”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Panel chipped”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Rust”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Smooth brick”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Georgian brick” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Belgian brick” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “English brick” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Limestone panel” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Rostov stone” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Dolomite” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “France” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Pebbles”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “River Pebbles”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Skol”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Chopped edge”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Balkan” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Ancient mosaic” ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms “Window Framing”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Slate”ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Old Castle”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Surgut Besser” Price ABS: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Surgut Besser – corner element” ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds » “Old Fortress” ABS price: 1200 RUR

Plastic molds “Ungel stone”ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Plinth slab” Price ABS: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Old Castle” (panel) ABS price: 1300 RUR

Plastic molds “Fork” (smooth brick) ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds “Fork” (Belgian brick) ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Cracked brick” ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Fork “Rostov”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Fork “Rostov” (smooth)ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Smooth”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic molds Panel “Litestone”ABS price: 1400 RUR

Plastic forms Panel “Nevsky Stone”ABS price: 1400 RUR

ABS price: 1400 RUR

Types of tiles for interior work

Of course, you can also use natural facing bricks, but even if such a load on the floors is permissible, in order to make ideal masonry for jointing, at least a little experience of a mason is required, since the rows must be even.

Interior finishing of brick walls can be done with clinker tiles, but due to its high cost and resistance to temperature changes, it is more advisable to use it for finishing facades. Clinker tiles are also used for cladding stoves and fireplaces.

Most often, artificial rigid or flexible brick-like tiles are used for interior decoration, imitating natural material. It is cheaper, and installation can be done by anyone with even very little experience in performing this type of work. To make such facing material Various building materials can be used.

Stone-effect tiles imitate natural materials well, and there are no problems with their installation, since they are of the correct shape, and with the help of flexible tiles, various surfaces can be finished, including columns, external and internal corners Therefore, it will not be difficult to imitate brick walls with your own hands.

Review of manufacturers

To select truly high-quality tiles, you need to give preference only to the most popular and well-established manufacturers. These include:

  • Stroeher – German manufacturer tile materials add mineral granules and modifying components to the raw material composition, which improve the frost resistance of the coating. Facade tiles Stroeher has a 25-year lifetime warranty;
  • King Klinker - one of the best Polish companies for the production of facing coatings produces high-quality tiles with very low water absorption. Before molding, polymer compounds are added to the solution to form a protective film on the surface of the tile;
  • Litos - facade tiles are made by hyper-pressing from a cement composition with the addition of kaolin substances. Thanks to this, the coating has high technical indicators, such as strength and frost resistance.

Making façade tiles is a relatively simple process that requires the craftsman to accurately carry out the work at all stages. At the same time, the quality of the future coating is largely determined by the composition of the raw materials and the uniformity of the prepared solution.

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Manufacturing of molded products for decorative stone

Molds for artificial stone, just like for tiles, can be made with your own hands or purchased ready-made, complete with materials for making products.

The most convenient to use are considered to be rubber, silicone and polyurethane molds, from which the stone is easiest and fastest to remove after the mass has hardened.

Considering that the cost of ready-made forms is high, it makes sense to consider the possibility of making them at home.

Dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand

The best option is to make a mold from polyurethane. Packing material weighing 7 kg will cost no more than three thousand rubles, while it will be possible to make several forms of the sizes you need from it. If you decide to use silicone, then it is best to select a vinegar-based material made in Europe.

To make it easier to remove finished products from the mold, it is useful to use matrix separator, which is simply made from gum turpentine, beeswax and paraffin. To prepare the mass, wax and paraffin are melted in a water bath, adding turpentine at the end. The mixture is used to lubricate the sides of the mold and the surface of the stone.

Instructions for making a mold from polyurethane or silicone are as follows:

  1. Select several stones that you think are suitable as samples.
  2. Place them face down on a sheet of chipboard or fibreboard, a few centimeters apart.
  3. Treat the smooth side of the stones with silicone and press firmly into the surface.
  4. Treat the contours of the stones with sealant to prevent air from getting under them. Silicone for aquariums is suitable for filling, which will help avoid leaks.
  5. Let the sealant dry for several hours.
  6. Prepare the formwork at a distance of a few centimeters from the stone.
  7. Seal the edges and corners of the formwork with silicone to prevent leakage of polyurethane.
  8. Allow the mixture to dry (at least 12 hours).
  9. Lubricate the formwork and samples with the wax mixture prepared earlier and let dry for two hours.
  10. Prepare the polyurethane mixture.
  11. Fill the matrix with silicone or polyurethane. Pour out the polyurethane in a thin stream, and pour the silicone with a brush dipped in soapy water.
  12. Disassemble the formwork after 24 hours and remove the stone models from the mold.
  13. Dry the finished products for two weeks.

In this way, you can prepare the required number of molds with samples of artificial stone that suit you, reducing the cost of purchasing finished products and materials for home decoration by an order of magnitude.

Stages of work on the production of facade tiles

All work on creating facade tiles can be divided into the following stages:

Production workshop for the production of facade tiles

  1. extraction, transportation and storage of material (quarry stage);
  2. material processing (mechanical stage);
  3. molding of products from processed materials;
  4. drying;
  5. burning.

Quarry mining. The technological process for the production of facing tiles begins with the quarrying of materials for its production. To increase the elasticity of components (for example, clay) and thereby improve their molding properties, they are soaked and frozen for a year.

Raw materials for the manufacture of most types of facade tiles are mined in quarries

Processing stage. To ensure high-quality mechanical processing of the material for the production of facade tiles, this is done using clay processing machines. Their task is to isolate and process third-party inclusions.

Tile forming process. In the process of forming facade tiles, two methods are used:

  1. semi-dry pressing;
  2. plastic molding.

Drying process. After molding, the material must be dried. Otherwise, the lining will crack during firing and will not shrink evenly.

Tile drying machine

Firing process. At the final stage of manufacturing external facing tiles, a firing process takes place, which contributes to the formation of the structure of the material and its technical properties. In the production of facade tiles, in addition to clay, a concrete mixture is used. It is this that allows you to create the cladding yourself at home.

The vibratory casting method is used for the concrete mixture. This method guarantees production with low porosity and allows the use of sand, crushed stone, cement, various pigments and plasticizers in the manufacturing process. Standard equipment for home production is a concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.

Solution

The solutions that are used to make tiles with your own hands come in a wide variety.

In this case, an example of the most popular mortar based on cement is given.:

  • It is necessary to pour 1 part sand and 0.5 water into a container suitable for mixing the solution. The composition must be mixed for 1 minute;
  • after this, cement (2 parts) and water (1 part) must be added to the resulting mass. Mix everything thoroughly;

NOTE!
The consistency of the solution after mixing should be similar to the solution intended for modeling. The mass must not be liquid.

When the required consistency has been achieved, the coloring pigment can be added.

After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for facade tiles is ready.

  • When the required consistency has been achieved, the coloring pigment can be added. After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for facade tiles is ready.

Forming

The process of laying out the prepared solutions into molds must be carried out on a vibrating table, which must be turned on during the process. It is necessary to fill the molds with the composition in portions; for this you can use a trowel or a wide spatula.

The composition must be subjected to vibration during the laying process. This allows air to be removed from the mass.

After the mass has been spread out over all forms, it is necessary to further level the surface using a wide spatula. It is also necessary to remove the composition that got on the sides of the molds.

The last thing to do at this stage is to remove the filled containers with the composition into a drying cabinet or place them on a rack.

The duration of the period required for the tile to harden is two days. During this time, the molds with the solution should not be touched..

IMPORTANT!
After the specified period, you can begin to remove the finished tiles from the molds. To do this, they are first immersed in water whose temperature is 40-60 degrees Celsius and left for 2-3 minutes.

After the tile is removed from the water, the mold should separate well.

To make the process easier, you can use a rubber mallet and lightly tap it on the surface of the mold..

Forms for facade tiles

One of the main points in the process of creating tiles or artificial stone for facade cladding is the shape. This device is made from ABS plastic.

This material is the most widely used among others, but silicone, polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane can be used for such purposes. These materials are capable of providing a high-quality result that will have the desired degree of matte or will be glossy on the surface.

As for molds made from PVC or plastic, they are convenient to use because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since the concrete mixture that is poured into them is not capable of sticking.

A good option regarding the material from which molds can be made is polyurethane. It is characterized by good strength and durability. If the mold is made of polyurethane, then it can be used for quite a long time, using it to produce 1000 or more tiles. In addition, this shape gives the tile an ideal glossy surface:

There is a wide variety of types of shapes that are used to create facade tiles.

Among the main ones we can highlight:

  • limestone ore;
  • marble;
  • cut limestone;
  • cliff;
  • dolomite.

IMPORTANT!
By creating tiles yourself, you can make a shape that is not similar to any of the ones listed. Thus, the tiled façade of the building will be one and only of its kind.

Types of molded products

A wide selection of products for casting facade tiles and stones open up many opportunities for the implementation of unique design ideas in the direction of facade finishing. The most striking examples of products:

  • limestone ore;
  • figured slate;
  • dolomite;
  • marble ore, etc.

Please pay attention to the fact that the work of laying finished facade tiles or artificial stone requires certain calculations to ensure that the masonry is smooth and durable. . During the installation process, it will be necessary to use not only a level, but also such important materials as a lath and a plumb line

During the installation process, it will be necessary to use not only a level, but also such important materials as a strip and a plumb line.

Before you proceed to laying tiles or stone, you will need to prepare:

  • buy, go make molds for products with your own hands;
  • assemble or buy a ready-made vibrating table;
  • mix the composition for stone or facade tiles;
  • prepare the mold on the vibrating table;
  • let the finished product sit in the mold for 24 hours;
  • carry out formwork.

Finished products can be immediately used for finishing the facade, or can be packaged for further storage.

If you are not yet ready to make molds, then you can purchase ready-made products, the cost of which will vary depending on the material from which they are made.

Which products to choose?

Molds for the production of facade tiles are produced by a large number of companies not only in Russia, but throughout the CIS. Therefore, the choice should be made based on trust in one or another manufacturer. Products under the following brands are especially popular among companies:

  • Taboss;
  • Fistone;
  • Alpha.

And this is only a small part of foreign and domestic manufacturers whose main activity is the production of molds from plastic and polyurethane. The Polish company Taboss is known far beyond its borders. Its products are widely represented in many countries of the world, including Russia. The main activity of the company is the production of plastic molds. They are distinguished by a wide range and high quality. The cost of such products is 127 rubles per piece and is one of the highest among analogues.

Among domestic manufacturers, the products of the Novosibirsk company Fistone are in particular demand. It produces polyurethane molds, as well as related products for making tiles at home. The products of this manufacturer are presented in various models, which allows you to select them in accordance with the overall design of the building. Prices for such forms reach 2,600 rubles per piece, which is not cheap at all.

Let's watch the video, the stages of making a mold for tiles on your own:

Another fairly well-known manufacturer of such products is the company Standardpark from St. Petersburg. IN the lineup Its products include a large number of tile shapes of different sizes and styles. They are made of polypropylene and polyurethane and are of high quality. The cost of such forms depends on their size, the material used and starts from 40 rubles per piece.

Manufacturing technology

But it’s not enough to just choose the right form for the production of facade tiles. You also need to make it correctly. First of all, it should be taken into account that work related to this is carried out at temperatures from 15 to 30°C. This is necessary so that the solution hardens efficiently and there are no air bubbles in it.

We must not forget about observing safety measures when performing work. For this purpose, it is recommended to use safety glasses and gloves. If the production of tiles takes place indoors, then exhaust ventilation must be organized in it.

Molding of facade tiles

The forms are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with the finished solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the solution does not include natural crumb fillers and dye, then pigment is first added to the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to obtain a tile with a uniformly colored front surface to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Considering the high cost of a vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, when molding tiles you can do without it. If you install a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) on two supports, and place polyurethane forms on it, then the mixture can be compacted in the forms by tapping the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compacting the mold, being careful not to deform it, transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure of molds and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tiles and the turnover of polyurethane molds.

Features of molds for tiles and stones

Typically used for making products ABS plastic, as well as a number of other materials, among which the most popular are silicone, polyvinyl chloride and polyurethane. It is these materials that make it possible to obtain products with the required degree of matte and glossy surface. Molds made of PVC and plastic are especially convenient because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since the concrete mixture does not stick during the process of preparing products with their help.

An interesting material option for molds is polyurethane, which is especially strong and durable.. Products made from polyurethane can be used to cast more than a thousand slabs, the peculiarity of which will be an ideal glossy surface.

Do-it-yourself production of facing tiles

Cladding tiles or fake diamond, is essentially an element of decorative facing stone (terracotta tiles). If we talk in simple words about production at home, then a liquid solution, already colored in a color palette, is poured into molds.

The tile is taken out of the mold, the material is ready, but only after it has completely hardened.

In the process of improvement, the following types of finishing can be distinguished: interior - on a gypsum base, exterior - on a cement base. The main thing is not to forget that a large part of success is the selection of quality components, as well as reducing the use of water, this will result in a more solid product.

The production of facing tiles can be divided into three stages

All production can be divided into 3 stages:

  • Preparation of tools and raw materials;
  • Preparation of the form;
  • Making stone.

The production of facing tiles should be done in the warm season, for example, in summer, but the product should be dried away from sunlight, protected from rain and wind. Having a certain set of equipment will only be beneficial; to the basic one you can add a concrete mixer, a vibrating table, a mixer for mixing and a drying cabinet

There is nothing complicated in manufacturing using a simplified algorithm; by following certain rules and paying attention to the quality of the products used, you can make decent facing tiles with your own hands.

Laying tiles

Level the surface of the building walls in advance. In addition, it is best to carry out insulation and treatment against fungus.

The tiles are laid using a special adhesive that is resistant to weather conditions and temperature fluctuations. Use compounds that are not afraid of moisture, but this is not necessary, unlike the frost resistance criterion. Since the weight of the finish is significant, the adhesion of the solution to the surface must be appropriate.

Stages of installation of homemade facade tiles

Laying is carried out under favorable weather conditions. The temperature should be between 5-25 degrees Celsius. When it's cold, the properties of the glue deteriorate, it freezes, and when it's hot, the moisture evaporates too quickly.

Apply the solution both to the wall and to the tile itself. If the layout is complex, it is better to use the second option. Remove any glue protruding from the seams after final fixation of the material. The gaps are filled with waterproof fugues, for example, cement-latex. It is best to use a syringe so as not to stain the tile itself. After drying, the facades are treated with a water-repellent liquid, for example, a water repellent. This is especially true for concrete and clinker samples. After such work, the cladding will last you much longer.

on the wall is not a big deal. Vertical and horizontal frame elements are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. The tiles are secured to the frame using clamps and self-tapping screws. Mineral slabs can be laid between the frame elements. basalt wool. This will significantly insulate the house. After this, sequentially screwing the clamps to the frame with self-tapping screws, the cladding of the house is mounted from home-made facade tiles.

If one or more tiles break, such a facade will be easy to repair. To do this, you should have several dozen facade tiles in stock. They need to be stored indoors or under a canopy.

How to make tiles with your own hands

The process of manufacturing facade tiles consists of several stages:

  • material extraction;
  • transporting it to a storage location;
  • processing;
  • molding;
  • drying;
  • firing

It all starts with quarrying - extracting material to create products. Most often, clay is used, which is soaked and frozen at low temperatures for 10-12 months.

For high-quality processing of prepared material, special machines are best suited to detect and process unwanted inclusions. At the molding stage, processing occurs in several ways: plastic molding, casting and semi-dry pressing. The finished products are dried to prevent shrinkage and cracks in the future, after which they are fired to form the finished façade tiles.

In addition to clay, concrete mixture is suitable for making tiles, from which it is easier to create products at home from do-it-yourself molds. The process most often uses the vibration casting method to ultimately obtain slabs with low porosity on the surface. By preparing a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, it can be painted with coloring pigments. As for the equipment necessary for the work, it will be enough to have a regular concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.

Please note that plastic molds are suitable for making products from plaster and concrete, but not from clay. Moreover, plastic is not suitable option material for the manufacture of molds intended for decorative stone, ideally repeating the structure of natural

Let us note that making façade tiles today is an activity that anyone can master. The material is easy to use and allows you to create a finish that protects the facade and gives it a special texture. Molds for casting products are distinguished by their plasticity and practicality, allowing you to make with your own hands materials of the desired color and texture that are as visually close to natural as possible.

Preparing the solution for pouring

After the glue has dried, begin preparing the polyurethane mass for pouring.

The required quantities of polymer and hardener are poured into two separate dry and clean containers in the required proportions. Then pour them into a third dry and clean container and mix thoroughly with your own hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, you should use protective clothing, gloves and goggles, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution gets on your skin, wash it off immediately with running water and detergent!

Before filling the formwork with the compound, you need to dry brush the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the surface of the sample when adding the bulk of the mixture.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer begins from the lower corner, while simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. When the base is in a horizontal position, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the top point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which the matrix is ​​removed.

Handmade clinker tiles

Laying under brick does not differ significantly from laying conventional ceramics. Regardless of the application surface, it must be cleaned of dirt and properly primed. It is also necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of glue, because it must absorb moisture well and be resistant to frost

It is worth paying attention to the treatment of the seams between the tiles; they must be properly sealed.

Clinker tiles have a number of advantages

If we break down all the work step by step, it looks something like this:

  • Surface preparation;
  • Marking;
  • Adhesive solution;
  • Laying tiles;
  • Seam processing.

The properties of clinker are very attractive; the tiles are resistant to cold, durable, easy to maintain, have a low level of water absorption, and are resistant to mechanical stress. This is a large number of advantages. Homemade tiles are in no way inferior in quality to the factory-made alternative. In addition, such a house will look very solid and attractive, and its facade will not lose its appearance for a long time.

For cladding outside buildings use various cladding materials, for example. The production of clinker tiles has low cost and production time. It is possible to choose a variety of materials as a base. Mineral mixtures are most often used. Cement is mixed quartz sand and clay. The simple manufacturing process makes it possible to create tiles in-house, but this requires special equipment.

In the modern world you can buy different types clinker, with large differences in color, with the most daring design solutions. And also to simplify the coating, you can purchase special molds for tiles. Despite the availability of clinker, the total cost of covering the area of ​​the house can amount to a significant amount. The molds are designed to simplify the process of making slabs with your own hands, which will significantly reduce the cost of the process. But more on that later.

Features of clinker

Facade tiles have significant differences from similar facing materials.

If we compare it with tiles, then it is the undisputed leader. It is used exclusively for finishing buildings, so it has a wide range of qualities:

  • It is resistant to various types of damage, including scratches and strong impacts.
  • Due to its use in outdoor conditions, the tiles are wear-resistant and not susceptible to mold and other harmful influences.
  • The production of facade tiles is done in such a way that the number of pores through which there is a possibility of moisture penetration is minimized.
  • A prerequisite for any type of tile is resistance to frost.
  • The tiles are not affected in any way by exposure to ultraviolet radiation. The original color is preserved in any conditions.

Of all the above, the most important condition is to ensure the durability of the coating. The facing tiles must have a long period of time during which they will not change their properties and appearance.

Industrial production

For wide production, the two most popular technologies are used: semi-dry pressing and extrusion production.

Extrusion Manufacturing Process

For making tiles at home, these methods are also suitable, but you need to make a number of changes to the technology.

The main differences between the methods lie in the molding principle. The first method involves pressing the material, after which the product, which has taken shape, is placed in an oven and fired, excluding drying from the process.

The product is obtained with low density, low weight, but, as a result, insufficient strength. The advantage of this technology is that the finished cladding material practically does not conduct heat, which in some areas is valued much more than resistance to damage.

The second method is carried out using an extruder.

In simple terms, this is a large meat grinder through which clay is put. The material is crushed and formed in a vacuum press. The workpiece is dried and after that it is sent to the kiln for firing.

This method of producing facade tiles is used much more often, because the resulting product is highly durable, immune to abrasion, and it is extremely difficult to damage it in any way.

Home production

Before you start making facade tiles, you need to make sure that you have a basis for making:

  • concrete;
  • putty;
  • alabaster;
  • gypsum and clay.

The production of facade tiles involves the use of vibration casting technology.

In addition, the properties of the tile depend on the quality and firing temperature. All this will require equipment that cannot be skimped on. You need to understand that making it yourself is much more difficult, and therefore the process requires more attention.

The next step will be the choice of filler; you can use whatever your heart desires, for example, sand, shells, glitter or glass chips.

It is important to understand that the tiles will not encounter any kind of load, so the most important point will be to get rid of the air inside the structure. After all, it is this that will cause the destruction of the tiles in the cold months.

Making tiles yourself is quite easy, but you need to understand that you will need some equipment for this:

  • vibrating table;
  • concrete mixer;
  • mixer, preferably using a hammer drill;
  • plastic molds;
  • water capacity of 100 liters or more;
  • heating cabinet

You can do without a concrete mixer if the owner has a lot of free time. To prepare a large volume of solution, you can use 10-liter portions and mix them using a hammer drill with a mixer.

The production of clinker tiles will take place using a vibrating table. There is also the option to carry out vibrations yourself or make a device similar in design.

Subtleties of production

In order to obtain material that meets all requirements, it is necessary to purchase only high-quality raw materials. Making tiles at home is a very risky process, especially for those who are doing it for the first time.

However, you should not be afraid of difficulties, because if you strictly follow the instructions from experienced craftsmen, the result will leave you satisfied. The technological process has the following subtleties:

  • You need to add to the material the amount of water that is required and not an ounce more. After all, a mixture that is too liquid will not be able to harden evenly, which will cause rapid wear of the material.
  • The strength of the tile coating greatly depends on the quality of the cement used in the work. It is advisable to use only material that is graded M200 and higher.
  • To improve resistance to damage, you need to use plasticizers; they can increase the properties of the material and make it stronger.

The best manufacturers of clinker tiles

Making your own tiles will be much cheaper than an analogue from a store, and the quality may be in no way inferior, but if you do not want to waste your time and money on the tedious production process, then you can take advantage of the offers of companies that have already established themselves as experienced manufacturers of facade tiles.

  • Stroeher is a company that short term conquered the German tile production market. Their clinker tile production technology is unique due to the fact that they add special components to the tile composition that improve the frost-resistant qualities of the product. A big plus of the company is that they provide a 25-year guarantee on their products.
  • King Klinker is a Polish company producing facing materials. Their clinker tiles are worth a look. It has high water-repellent properties. At the stage of preparing the solution, polymers are added to it, creating a protective film on the surface of the mixture.
  • Lithos. A unique technology for producing clinker tiles using a hyperpress using kaolin. The final performance of the tiles is very high. Durability and reliability are what characterize their products.

Video: Production of facade tiles

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Facade cladding with tiles successfully competes with painting, so the demand for durable, aesthetic facade tiles is great. Based on demand, manufacturers offer different kinds high-quality cladding, differing in material, format and color, but the material you like is not always affordable. In this situation, it is possible to reduce the cost of finishing the facade by making facade tiles with your own hands.


You don't need large rooms to make tiles

Selecting molds for casting tiles

In an enterprise environment, façade tiles are produced using methods of which only one is suitable for home use – vibration casting. It should be taken into account that the prices for high-quality molds are quite high, the turnover of molds for casting facade tiles is up to 1500 cycles, so it makes no sense to buy them for the production of 5-10 square meters of finishing. But, if the amount of cladding work is significant, the cost of purchasing molds or making them yourself from polymer materials will provide significant savings.

The use of primitive homemade molds from scrap materials when casting, although it is a less expensive option for performing the work, does not guarantee the aesthetics of the finish.

Silicone molds can withstand a huge number of castings

Molds for casting tiles are divided into 3 types based on the material used:

  • silicone;
  • plastic;
  • polyurethane.

Of the listed types, polyurethane molds are suitable for making facade tiles at home, since silicone molds are fragile, and products made from plastic molds do not resemble natural stone due to their glossy surface.

The process of manufacturing facade tiles using the vibration casting method consists of the following stages:

  1. Making molds.
  2. Preparation of the solution.
  3. Pouring the solution into molds.
  4. Removing products.

Let's take a closer look at these stages.

Making a mold for wood tiles is the easiest way

Manufacturing of polyurethane molds for facade tiles

First of all, you need to decide what kind of tile the facade will be finished with, think about its size, format and configuration of the front surface. A rational solution would be to temporarily borrow several samples of natural stone products from a professional workshop, which it was decided to imitate. These samples will be used as templates when making molds with your own hands.

Molds for making polyurethane tiles

Material for making molds

To make the molds themselves, you need to purchase a two-component polyurethane casting compound, for example, Nomakon-TM KPTD-1, Formosil or Poly. These compositions, prepared in the right proportions with a hardener and poured into the formwork, turn into a durable elastic product that is resistant to mechanical damage, vibration, chemicals, low temperatures and humidity.

Production of formwork for the form and installation of the matrix

As a base for the formwork, use a piece of plexiglass slightly larger than the area of ​​the stone and place the sample on it, face up. The excess of the stone above the base level is measured and the contour of the future formwork is drawn around the sample at a distance of 2-3 cm with a marker.

The stone is removed from the base and a rectangular formwork made by hand from the same plexiglass is attached to the plexiglass along the applied contour using silicone sealant “For aquariums”. The height of the formwork should be 1.5-2 cm greater than the height of the sample. Then the sample is installed in place, the joint between the stone and the base is covered with the same silicone and the product is allowed to dry for a day.

Mold for pouring a fence slab

If the sample material has high porosity, then its surface is covered with a thin layer of a solution of paraffin in kerosene or white spirit in a ratio of 1:2, which will act as an anti-adhesive separator and facilitate the removal of the matrix from the hardened polyurethane mass. The separator needs an hour to dry.

Preparing the solution for pouring

After the glue has dried, begin preparing the polyurethane mass for pouring.

The required quantities of polymer and hardener are poured into two separate dry and clean containers in the required proportions. Then pour them into a third dry and clean container and mix thoroughly with your own hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, you should use protective clothing, gloves and goggles, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution gets on your skin, wash it off immediately with running water and detergent!


Before filling the formwork with the compound, you need to dry brush the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the surface of the sample when adding the bulk of the mixture.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer begins from the lower corner, while simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. When the base is in a horizontal position, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the top point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which the matrix is ​​removed.

Matrix extraction

A day after pouring, the formwork is dismantled, cutting off the silicone gluing points with a utility knife. The matrix in polyurethane is turned over with its back side up and the degree of curing of the polymer is assessed, since final hardening may take up to three days. If the compound has not completely hardened, the stone is left in it until the solution is completely set.

Several dies can be made at the same time to produce tiles of different shapes

The frozen polyurethane mold is carefully separated from the surface of the matrix with your own hands, trying not to damage the surface texture, which follows the structure of the stone.

To ensure that the facade decoration is not primitive or monotonous, it is necessary to make at least 5 forms using different matrices.

Preparation of mortar for molding tiles

There are many recipes for preparing mortar, but cement-based compositions are widely used. To produce the main component for pouring into molds, the following technology can be used:

2 parts of sand are mixed with one part of water for 1-2 minutes, after which 4 parts of cement and 2 parts of water are added and mixed for 2-3 minutes. Then 8 parts of sand and one part of water are gradually added to the solution and mixed, after which dye is added to the mixture in an amount of no more than 4-5% of the total volume of the batch. Using white M500 cement instead of the usual gray Portland cement will result in tiles with richer tones.


When making facade tiles with your own hands, they also use fillers made from fine chips of natural stone (granite, marble, limestone), which increase the strength characteristics of the products and the similarity with natural stone finishing. To do this, out of 8 parts of sand, when mixing, 4 parts are replaced with crumbs.

Molding of facade tiles

The forms are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with the finished solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the solution does not include natural crumb fillers and dye, then pigment is first added to the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to obtain a tile with a uniformly colored front surface to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Considering the high cost of a vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, when molding tiles you can do without it. If you install a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) on two supports, and place polyurethane forms on it, then the mixture can be compacted in the forms by tapping the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compacting the mold, being careful not to deform it, transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure of molds and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tiles and the turnover of polyurethane molds.

Removing products from molds

To properly remove the cliche with the product, place it in a container with water at a temperature of 40-60 degrees for several minutes to increase the elasticity of the polymer. The tiles are removed by hand, tapping the polyurethane with a rubber hammer, and until completely cured, they are laid in one layer in a cool place for 7-10 days.

Conclusion

With significant volumes of finishing work, this technology provides significant savings in money, and the quality of the cladding material made by hand, although inferior to industrial designs, is quite high.

Despite the huge selection of ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Various variations are consistently popular among home craftsmen. decorative tiles, imitating brickwork, which decorates any room. In this article we will look at two methods for producing such an imitation - with completely different raw material bases and technologies, they are united by simplicity and accessibility.

  • Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration
  • Decorative gypsum brick

Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration

This method was shared in a comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.

Albeduin FORUMHOUSE Member

A method of making decorative stones without pouring each into molds, such tiles can be made in the simplest way. The cost of consumables per 1 m² is in the range of 15-30 rubles.

DIY decorative brick.

The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it has not fundamentally increased, especially considering that not only raw materials become more expensive over time, but also a square of finished tiles today costs a lot.

Solution

The mortar is prepared from sand, cement, water and acrylic primer (concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the mortar with uniformity and elasticity, and the finished tile with increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, primer is about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the CPS). The solution is made quite liquid, but holds its shape and does not float thanks to the primer.

Equipment

The process of making tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.

Frame– base and sides made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, ends made of wooden blocks. To ensure high adhesion of the tile to future substrates, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, by laying a backing under the laminate on the plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purpose and what size the tile is needed.

Masher– assembled from wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in a mold into tiles. The frame is made of wooden slats, on which a plastic cutting part protruding to the thickness of the tile is fixed. Topicstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.

Albeduin simplified the task as much as possible for everyone interested, accompanying the description of the work procedure with graphics.

Making tiles

The form is placed on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and filled with mortar - it must be laid out from one edge and leveled using a rule or spatula, finishing to the end. To give relief to the front tile surface, after leveling the mortar, they pass over it with a trowel “tack-free”, after which they are again leveled along the edges of the frame. The result is voids and grooves, but with a smooth edge.

After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins to harden, the tiles themselves are formed with a press; they do not need to be cut through, a seam of half the thickness is sufficient. The frozen tile will easily break into segments, and less effort will be required during molding. After molding, use a spatula to cut the mortar around the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. The pieces are left in the frame for three days; if a large volume is needed, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other when drying.

After three days, they begin to remove the semi-finished products - remove the frame and pull the workpiece towards you by the backing until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and carefully break it off. Albeduin advises breaking off four tiles in fragments, this will simplify painting, and then breaking into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.

The tiles are painted with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since there are many manufacturers and different concentrations. The approximate ratio is one-eighth of a tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to the recommendations for use; do not exceed the maximum proportion. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. Each color paste is mixed separately and applied to the tiles with a brush one at a time.

The yellow color comes first, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread into the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it will practically not be absorbed and will collect in the voids, giving a light tint.

This layer-by-layer coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tile from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.

If you wish, you can “play” with any shades, adjusting them to the interior.

Broken-shaped tiles are obtained by cutting segments not with a crusher, but with the edge of a spatula; otherwise, the technology is no different. You can grout the seams with the same mortar from which the tiles are made - DSP with primer. You should not use ready-made grouting compounds, as they are designed for a smooth surface, but they will get tightly packed into the relief of homemade tiles and ruin the whole look. When grouting with a solution, after drying, an indelible coating also forms, but it is easily removed - after the joint has dried, go over it with a brush dipped in primer.

Corner Tiles

Corner tiles are also made using this production technology; it is more complicated, but also quite doable at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have electric jigsaw, assembling a form from plywood and timber will not be difficult. Especially with a visual aid from Albeduin.

But not only the shape is different, there are also nuances in the manufacturing process.

The substrate is not only placed separately in each cell, but is also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is done to hold the solution on an inclined base.

The solution is made thicker than for flat tiles and with a double dose of primer, since it should be more elastic, not rise beyond the rule and not fall out of the cells. With a thick mortar, you won’t be able to get the texture with slaps; the relief is pressed arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.

Removal - as in the first option, the blanks are pulled out of the mold after three days, carefully prying them off together with the substrate, but for drying they are not stacked, but placed on an edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not come off (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for another couple of days.

Division - break the tiles into segments when they lie on the edge, with a pulling movement (you cannot pull) by the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the ribs, and not just trimming along the perimeter of a large segment.

The durability of such façade tiles is best evidenced by the fact that they have been doing well on the basement of Topixarter’s own house for seven years now. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to it for several years.

Decorative gypsum brick

And for making imitation brickwork using a method from a portal participant with the nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple devices not required - gypsum “bricks” are made directly on the walls.

Vodnik-k2 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I would like to present to your attention gypsum plaster for antique brickwork with my own hands. Choosing decorative finishing, suitable for the coffered ceiling made in the hallway, we settled on old brickwork. But we decided not to use ready-made materials, but to make brick-like plaster.

Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the problem, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster under antique brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).

Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process is somewhat annoying for “the best thing for knitting lovers.”

DIY gypsum brick. Preparation

Prime the walls, beat off (using chalk strings or draw according to the rule) boundaries on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: four bricks, you can cut it out of 5 mm plexiglass (plexiglass).

Preparation of the mixture - dry bag gypsum plaster(25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), and the gypsum base is poured out first. The easiest way to measure pigment is with a measuring cup (kitchen utensil). Mix the mixture with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but easy to mold). The resulting effect depends on the consistency; a thick mortar is used for old bricks, and a thinner one is used for new bricks.

Application

The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter what tool is used for installation, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub it in properly. The excess is cut off with a spatula, and since the batch is relatively sticky, it pulls behind the tool to be torn off, resulting in the characteristic relief of ceramic bricks. Before removing the stencil, the boundaries of the “masonry” are cut with an awl (spatula, knife) so that the edges do not lift up. After removing the stencil, the surface of the tiles is slightly smoothed with the flat part of the spatula. The process of making decorative bricks is repeated over the entire surface reserved for imitation.

For sealing seams Vodnik-k2 I used a homemade grout from a mixture of gypsum mounting adhesive and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal parts and sealed with a primer. I squeezed the mixture out of the bag (if you don’t mind, a large culinary syringe will do), and, if necessary, trimmed it with a spatula and brush.

After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. The topic starter was coated with butediene styrene latex diluted 1/6 with water. You can apply the products with a brush, roller or garden sprayer. If the coverage area is small, a nozzle on plastic bottle. Latex increases the adhesion of plaster to the wall and evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture-resistant and provide the possibility of wet maintenance, it is coated with a water-repellent agent after latex. You should not overuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky shine, after two there will be a gloss, which will not add to the appearance of the brick.

Facade plaster from Knauf or any other well-known manufacturer can help make the walls of your home perfectly even and smooth. However, if you want to make the facade of your house unique, original and unusual, or simply save money on its cladding, the easiest way to do this is to make the tiles yourself. DIY facade tiles It is quite simple to make and you do not need any specific tools or knowledge.

In order for your own façade tiles to turn out to be of high quality, it is important not to skimp on components. The freshness and quality of the material used, its brand and the reliability of the manufacturer are the key to success in preparing good tiles.

Another very important point is the use of water. It is highly recommended to reduce the amount of water added to the solution as much as possible. This is how you can increase the strength of your tiles. You can reduce the amount of water by adding plasticizers. Or initially use cement of the highest quality possible.

Additionally, the raw tiles can be soaked with a special deep penetration acrylic impregnation. This will also help increase the strength and water repellency of the tiles.

What you need to make your own tiles

To make tiles at home you will need:

  • Several buckets, a drill, a spatula, scales, a table, sheets of chipboard (slightly larger in size than the form).
  • Grade 500 cement is gray or white.
  • Filler (sand with granule size no larger than 5 mm).
  • Inorganic pigments.
  • Gypsum retarder (or citric acid).
  • Plasticizer.

Step-by-step process for making tiles

  • Buy tile molds.
  • Buy and fold a vibrating table.
  • Knead the mixture from which the tiles will be made.
  • Form a shape on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture into molds, they must be treated with an anti-stick compound, soap solution or antiseptic. Pour the mixture, colored in the color of your choice, into the molds.
  • Let the product lie in the molds for several days so that they harden well. After this, carefully bend the molds from the corners and remove the resulting tile from them. Lay it out on a separate table and let it dry for some time.
  • Make formwork with the finished tiles.
  • Use your tiles for their intended purpose.

This kind of tile is, in fact, an artificial stone. Therefore, facing the facade of a house with artificial stone can also be made in-house. For the exterior cladding of a building, stone is made from cement, and for the interior, stone made from gypsum is used.

Before you begin cladding the building, you need to prepare its surface. This process is no different from preparing to apply any other facing material.

If your facade is cinder block, concrete or brick, you will only need to level it. Remove any bumps or pits or any mortar protruding from the surface.

If the cladding is carried out on a wooden surface, the preparation will be slightly different. The facade will need to be covered with glassine, roofing felt or waterproofing material. A plaster reinforcing mesh is then attached to the waterproofing layer, and then cement-sand plaster or any other plaster composition is applied. And only after it has completely dried, you can proceed to finishing the facade.

The stone itself is directly applied to the surface of the facade using the “wet” method, that is, using cement glue. In order for it to set well, it is very important that the temperature outside at this time is above zero (ideally +6 to +26°C).

Thus, your cladding of the facade of the house with artificial stone will be unique, you will definitely be sure of its composition and will significantly save on building materials.



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