Build a wall from tongue-and-groove slabs with your own hands. Features of installing tongue-and-groove partitions from gypsum boards: step-by-step instructions and expert advice. Doorways in the partitions of their tongue-and-groove slabs

When remodeling an apartment or building a private house, you have to install new partitions. Selecting material for them is not so easy. It should not create excessive load on the floor, must be reliable and have good load-bearing capacity. It is also desirable that the installation be simple and quick, and the price low. There are not many materials and technologies that meet these requirements. This and tongue-and-groove slabs. In this article we will talk about tongue-and-groove ridges.

What kind of material is this and its types

Tongue-and-groove slabs (abbreviated as GGP) or blocks are a large-format building material for the construction of partitions in the form of a slab, at the ends of which a ridge (tenon) and groove are formed. Hence the name - tongue-and-groove slabs. They are:

Plasticizers and hydrophobic (water-repellent) additives are added to the solution to improve properties. Gypsum gypsum boards have another name - gypsum boards. It is understandable: the gypsum solution is poured into molds. Here is the “source” of this variant of the name.

Moisture resistance and hollowness

Depending on the area of use, tongue-and-groove slabs can be intended for normal operating conditions (ordinary, standard) or for wet rooms (moisture-resistant). Moisture-resistant ones are tinted greenish for better identification.

Both gypsum and silicate tongue-and-groove slabs are either solid or hollow. Solid ones are more durable; hollow ones, due to their lower weight, create less load on the floors. The choice between solid and hollow must be made based on several factors:

Soundproofing characteristics. Monolithic material without voids conducts sounds better, so it is used if sound insulation will be made in a separate layer (the best option) or if it is not so important.
Loads on partitions. If you need to hang shelves, furniture, or fasten some heavy objects on the walls, it is better to use a monolith.

wooden floors

If several factors need to be taken into account, sound insulation is considered last. You can increase noise protection by using a special installation technology (on vibration-damping pads), as well as by adding an additional layer of sound-proofing materials.

Specifications

If we compare conventional and moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove slabs, the differences in characteristics are only in water absorption and strength. Moisture-resistant, due to the large number of hydrophobic additives, they almost do not absorb moisture. Due to the large number of these additives, they are more expensive, since these additives are expensive. At the same time, they increase strength (M50 compared to M35).

By the way, you can check “without leaving the checkout” whether what you have in front of you is really moisture-resistant PGP or just standard ones painted green. Just pour some water on the surface. Standard slabs will quickly absorb it, but on water-repellent slabs it will remain in a puddle for a long time.

If we compare gypsum and silicate partition blocks, the increased strength of the latter immediately catches the eye - M150 compared to M50 and M35. That is, the strength of silicate slabs is comparable to concrete of a good grade. If you are going to hang something very heavy on the partition, it is better to use silicate. Manufacturers also produce blocks 115 mm thick, which are called inter-apartment blocks.

How else do silicate slabs differ from their gypsum counterparts? Because in the standard version they do not have such a high absorbency. It is not as low as that of moisture-resistant blocks, but this material can be used in any wet areas without problems (13% compared to 26-32%). The disadvantages of this material are greater weight (with equal dimensions) and lower thermal insulation characteristics.

Silicate or gypsum?

If we compare the soundproofing characteristics of gypsum blocks and silicate ones, the latter, with equal parameters, conduct sounds worse (40-43 dB for gypsum and 48-52 dB for silicate). So for better sound insulation we choose silicate.

But silicate blocks of the same size have greater weight and higher thermal conductivity (they conduct heat better). The key in the choice is weight, since sound and thermal insulation can be improved with the help of additional layers of special materials, but there is no way to reduce the weight of the partition. And if its mass is critical for the overlap, nothing good can be expected.

How to build with tongue-and-groove slabs

In order for a partition made of tongue-and-groove blocks to be reliable and stable, certain conditions must be met:

In general, it is necessary to strictly follow all recommendations and strictly follow the technology. Then tongue-and-groove partitions do not differ in strength and reliability from brick ones, but are erected many times faster.

Marking

The laying of the tongue-and-groove wall begins with markings. If you have a laser plane builder, everything is simple: unfold the plane, draw lines on the floor, walls, ceiling. If there is no such tool, you will have to spend more time. A plumb line will be required. The one that won’t fit in a smartphone is not a measuring tool. It’s better to buy one at a hardware store or make one from twine and a centered weight.

We draw the first line on the ceiling and use a plumb line to transfer it to the floor. By connecting the points on the floor and ceiling, we get lines on the walls. As a result, a closed marking was formed to align the partition.

We inspect the base on which we will place the blocks. It should be perfectly aligned when viewed along the partition line, and should not fall forward or backward when viewed across.

If there are door or window openings in the partition, they must also be marked. With doors everything is simple - we mark them on the floor. It’s more difficult with windows - you need beacons on the walls and ceiling.

Preparing the base

As already mentioned, the base should be perfectly level without tilting in any direction. If there are deviations, concrete floor fill in the leveling screed (not lower than M150). To do this, you will have to assemble the formwork into which the solution is poured. The minimum layer thickness is 3 cm. To get a guaranteed high-quality result, use a self-leveling composition. Just keep in mind that the errors “correct themselves” are not too large. You still need to distribute the composition manually. Simply run a spatula, dispersing the solution along the entire length, and small irregularities are leveled out due to the increased fluidity of the material.

Cover the poured concrete with polyethylene and leave it for about a week. This is if the room temperature does not drop below +20°, during which time it will gain 50% strength. This means that you can work with it. If the temperature is lower, the period increases. At a temperature of 17°C and slightly lower, 2 weeks are already needed... We coat the even base with concrete contact - it will improve the adhesion of the base to the adhesive composition on which we will place the PGP.

If we place tongue-and-groove blocks on a wooden floor, the partition must pass over the beam - this is it. Second, we level the base using dry timber. It must be secured so that it is also horizontally aligned in all directions. We fasten the timber to the floor with nails or self-tapping screws. If there is a joint, we connect it into half a tree, additionally coating the joint with wood glue and fastening it with nails.

To improve sound insulation

The main disadvantage of gypsum tongue-and-groove partitions is that the sound insulation is not very high. The situation with silicate blocks is better, but also not ideal. Therefore, we recommend laying vibration-absorbing tape around the perimeter of the partition. It is no secret that most sounds are transmitted through vibrations through the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls and elastic gaskets significantly improve the situation.

Under tongue-and-groove slabs, you can use a strip of bituminized felt or cork with a density of 250-300 kg/m³. The width of the strip is slightly less than the width of the blocks. It is laid on a leveled base using the same binder that you will use to seal the seams between the slabs. The solution is applied to the surface treated with concrete contact (after drying) in a layer of 2-3 mm. Lay the tape by rolling it with a roller, expelling air bubbles. The protruding solution is removed with a spatula. In this way, the tape is glued to the floor, walls, and ceiling. Levelness is checked using a bubble level.

Preparing slabs for installation

If silicate tongue-and-groove slabs are used, no preparation is required - their upper and lower surfaces do not have a groove/ridge. They are absolutely smooth (as in the photo below).

When working with a gypsum tongue-and-groove, first you need to decide whether you will place the blocks with the tongue or groove facing up. It is more convenient to work when the groove is directed upward, but the reverse position is not a mistake.

If you decide to lay the PGP with the groove up, you need to cut off the tenon on all blocks of the first row. The most convenient way to do this is with a hacksaw. The resulting cut is uneven. We level it using a plane.

Note! The cut of the slab must be absolutely even. This determines how firmly the wall of tongue-and-groove slabs will stand. And the cut tongue-and-groove slabs must be the same height.

The seam between the blocks does not exceed 2 mm, so even small deviations are almost impossible to correct. Therefore, we align carefully and carefully. After leveling, the dust is swept away with a brush and you can begin to build the wall.

First row

The sequence of actions when laying a wall made of tongue-and-groove slabs is simple and very similar to a brick one. There are only some features. Since the partition is usually adjacent to the wall, if a tenon is turned towards it, it is cut off with a saw, the surface is leveled with a plane, and the dust is removed. The next procedure is as follows:

In this way the entire row is lined up. The last slab usually has to be trimmed. This could be the beginning of a doorway or simply the last slab in a row. Its length should be 3-4 mm less than the remaining gap - the seam gap. You should not increase the gap - stability will decrease. For greater confidence, the joint can be reinforced with a metal corner. Two or three corners for each row. It's enough.

Second and subsequent

Tongue-and-groove slabs are laid with staggered seams - like bricks. The shift of the second row can be half or a third of the length. The best option- half. We cut half of the whole slab, cut off the tenon if necessary, and install it. Further masonry is no different. The third row again starts with a whole block, the fourth with a half, etc.

After laying each block, check whether it is positioned correctly. With such block sizes, the error accumulates very quickly. Therefore, we first check each installed block with a level for verticality/horizontalness. and then, placing the bar horizontally, grabbing the adjacent blocks and moving them from top to bottom, make sure there are no gaps. We also check that there are no deviations in the vertical plane.

Control of verticality and horizontality is one of the main tasks

Corner

If the wall being built from tongue-and-groove blocks has an outer corner, we begin the laying from there. To make the work easier, we create a corner support. This could be a corner with fairly wide shelves or two boards connected at 90°C. We put the structure in place, check the correct installation, and temporarily fix it to the ceiling and floor.

We cut off the side tenon of one of the slabs, rest its edge against the installed stop, level it, using a mallet to set the direction. For the second slab, we also cut off the side tenon, apply glue to this edge, connect it to the side surface of the installed slab, and tap it until it makes tight contact (diagram in the figure above).

To install the second row, you need to make a cut in the already installed slab for the lower tenon of the next block. We take a hacksaw for metal and make cuts. Then, using a wall chaser (a tool for working with foam concrete, but it is also useful for laying wiring in the PGP) or any hard tool, we remove the excess, align the groove, making it the same size and shape as the groove. Use a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust.

We place the second row starting from the other side - so that the seam is on the other side of the corner. Apply the solution to the end of the lower block. We take half of the block, cut off the side tenon, and install the bottom one in the prepared groove (far right diagram in the figure below). It should also rest against the established corner. We carefully align the installed tongue-and-groove slabs, checking for verticality and the absence of even the slightest deviation.

Branch

We also need to consider the branch from the partition at a right angle. The partitions will be more reliable if they are made with ligation (middle diagram in the figure). All three slabs that are being installed have the side tenon cut off. The joints are coated with adhesive, and the three blocks are driven close to each other with a mallet. In this case, it is also necessary to ensure that the partition is perpendicular - that is, the angle is 90°.

We line up the second row so that the middle of the block is above the junction. To install it, you will also need to make a groove in the protrusions of the lower block. These rows are then alternated.

There is another way to install a T-shaped partition from a tongue-and-groove - without ligation. To do this, simply lay out the wall (which in the letter T is the top crossbar). Attach a second partition to the finished wall, end-to-end (left diagram in the figure above). To increase the reliability of the connection, metal reinforced perforated corners are installed at the junction.

Doorway

A doorway in a wall made of tongue-and-groove slabs can be made with or without a reinforcing beam. It can be done without a reinforcing beam if the width of the opening does not exceed half the length of the block. Thus, a doorway 900 mm wide can be made without a beam if the ceiling is made of 900 mm long PGP. Moreover, the joint of the plates should be located almost in the middle. A slight shift is allowed (by 10 mm), but so that the length of the entire part of the block to the right and left of the opening is not less than 445 mm.

During installation, before the glue sets, the lintel above the door is reinforced with a stop (a board supported by a pole resting on the floor) or a structure assembled from boards as in the right diagram. In this case, first assemble a U-shaped lintel from boards and secure it with self-tapping screws to the blocks located below (check the horizontality of the lintel). Apply a block and mark how it needs to be cut. It turns out two L-shaped blocks of the same or almost identical sizes. After applying the solution in the right places, they are installed.

If we use tongue-and-groove slabs 667 mm long, a reinforcing beam must be installed under an opening larger than 660 mm. To make a beam, you can use a metal corner, channel, reinforcement, or strips of metal of considerable thickness. It is possible to use dry wooden beam thickness 50 mm or more (pre-treat with an antiseptic). The beam should protrude 400-450 mm beyond the doorway.

Tongue-and-groove blocks are a building material that is used for installing interior partitions. They are made from gypsum by low-temperature processing of natural gypsum, which is why their second name is gypsum slabs. This building material is characterized by high dimensional accuracy.

Types of tongue-and-groove blocks

There are ordinary and moisture-resistant gypsum boards. The gypsum board groove can have a trapezoidal or rectangular shape. There are solid and hollow plasterboards. For the construction of walls indoors with dry or normal humidity conditions (apartments, hotels, offices, schools, industrial buildings), ordinary gypsum boards are used, and for rooms with high humidity - moisture-resistant gypsum boards. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards contain hydrophobic additives.

Gypsum slabs are a very affordable building material. And thanks to the high quality of their front surface, there is no need to spend a lot of money on finishing work. A plasterboard wall can be covered with wallpaper, painted or tiled with ceramic tiles.

Installation from gypsum is very simple and easy. And due to its low price, the use of gypsum boards provides a significant advantage over the construction of interior brick walls in apartments or country houses. Another advantage of gypsum boards is their resistance to fire.

How to install tongue-and-groove blocks

In order to build one square meter of partition, you will need 5.5 gypsum blocks and approximately 1.5 kg of glue. In order to enhance sound insulation in the place where the partition adjoins the wall, use a cork gasket. If there are no strict requirements for sound insulation, then the blocks can be mounted to the enclosing structures directly on the adhesive mortar.

First, the surface on which the partition from tongue-and-groove blocks will be built is cleaned of dust and dirt. It is built before the finished floor is installed. Then markings are made using a cord or laser level. The marks are transferred to the walls using a plumb line. If the floor is uneven, you need to apply a leveling layer. Styling can be done no earlier than in a day.

Before starting installation, you need to prepare an adhesive solution, which was recommended by the gypsum board manufacturer (usually it is quite affordable). To do this, the dry mixture must be poured into a bucket with the required amount of water. Then mix thoroughly and leave for 2-3 minutes. It is necessary to take into account that the viability of the composition is only 1 hour, and the glue consumption per 1 m2 of masonry is only 1.5 kg.

Foreman's advice: When mixing glue, use only a clean container and clean cold water.

In order for the blocks in the masonry to adhere better, they must be laid with the groove facing up. To do this, the ridge is removed from the tongue-and-groove blocks of the lowest row of masonry. The laying of the first row is done according to the level and carefully leveled in one plane. When laying the next rows, the glue is applied and distributed along the grooves of the already laid row. The vertical seam of each tongue-and-groove masonry block also needs to be filled adhesive solution. The thickness of the seams should not exceed 2 mm. During installation, the gypsum blocks in the masonry are settled using a rubber hammer. Laying is done in staggered steps - at least a third of the length. Additional elements are easily obtained using a manual stove. The elements of the last row of masonry are sawn at an angle so that there are no voids left between the partition and the ceiling.

Foreman's advice: if there are potholes on the tongue-and-groove blocks, they need to be filled with putty.

If you need to make an opening in the partition, the width of which does not exceed 800 mm, and above which there is only one row of masonry, then it is not necessary to install a lintel. In this case, it will be enough to install and leave the support in the opening until the glue dries.

If the width of the opening exceeds 800 mm, then a metal or wooden lintel must be installed above the opening. To give the outer corners of the structure additional rigidity, you need to strengthen them metal profile. Internal corners can be strengthened with reinforcing tape.

Installation of gypsum boards can be carried out not only by a professional, but also by a novice builder. At the same time, an experienced worker can make 20 m2 of wall per shift.

Foreman's advice: when attaching objects that exert a light load (mirrors or bookshelves) to a wall made of tongue-and-groove blocks, you can use wedging corrosion-resistant dowels. When installing wall-mounted cabinets or sanitary fixtures, it is necessary to use corrosion-resistant bolts that go right through the wall.

Gypsum slabs are an affordable, cost-effective building material for building walls indoors. To build a wall from gypsum boards, you do not need special knowledge, you just need to watch a detailed video of laying gypsum blocks.

Video

This video shows the process of constructing a partition from Volma hollow tongue-and-groove slabs.

(GGP) is one of the most optimal building materials for creating walls and partitions.

PGPs are a gypsum block with a groove and a tongue at their ends, thanks to which they are assembled like a Lego set. Using this material, you can easily erect a partition up to 6 m long and up to 3.6 m high.

The tongue-and-groove comb can be used in both dry and wet rooms. For installation of partitions in rooms with high humidity special moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove slabs are produced.

Tools and materials for installing a partition made of PGP

To install a partition made of tongue-and-groove slabs, you will need the following materials and tools:

GGP regular or moisture resistant
primer
assembly adhesive
gypsum putty
mounting angles (straight hangers can be used)
dowel nails and screws
spatulas: wide, for external and internal corners
polyurethane foam
level
mallet

You can buy everything necessary for the installation of partitions made of PGP from our company.

Stages of installation of a partition made of tongue-and-groove slabs

1. Preparing the base

One of the most important conditions for creating partitions from PGP is reliable and stable base. If the base has strong unevenness, it is necessary to perform a leveling layer using a self-leveling floor.

Before starting installation, clean the floor from dust and dirt. After this, you can proceed to installing the partition.

2. Installation of the partition

To increase the adhesion of materials, it is necessary to treat all surfaces that will be adjacent to the future partition primer. After the primer has dried, mark and prepare the mixture - it can be used any gypsum mounting mixture.

To increase sound insulation and prevent other negative consequences, it is better to attach the partition to the base through an elastic porous material, such as cork. This stage is advisory in nature.

Tongue-and-groove slabs are mounted in rows. PGP of the first row are mounted from the wall placement on a layer of mounting mixture. The plate can be installed with the groove up or down. To obtain a high-quality design, it is necessary to check the vertical and horizontal levels of the future partition.

Before installing the next slab, apply a layer of adhesive to the already installed tongue-and-groove slab and base. After installing the second and subsequent slabs, level them with a mallet to obtain an even structure.

As a rule, to complete the partition it is necessary to use not the entire GGP slab. There is nothing wrong with this, because thanks to the voids the material is very easy to saw with a hacksaw.

When laying the second and subsequent rows, you need to maintain the spacing of the vertical joints at least 10 cm, thanks to this the structure is more durable.

Constantly monitor the width of the horizontal and vertical seams to eliminate additional alignment steps when finishing the partition made of pgp; it should be minimal.

Plates necessary fasten to walls and bases: they are performed using fastening angles, dowel nails and self-tapping screws.

The last row must be installed with a gap not less than 1.5 cm from the floor slab, the remaining gap is filled polyurethane foam, after cleaning off the excess, it is necessary to fill the seam with gypsum putty.

3. Finishing of the partition made of PGP

First of all, you need to protect the outer corners of the resulting partition from mechanical damage; for this, use corner perforated profile 31*31. Internal corners are strengthened with reinforcing tape.

A leveling layer of gypsum putty must be applied to all corners.

For laying electrical wires or electrical installation products, you can use structural cavities that need to be further expanded using a drill with a crown. With the same tool it is necessary to prepare external holes for electrical installation products and wiring outlets.

Before application decorative covering: wallpaper or paint, it is necessary to clean the seams and treat them and all irregularities with gypsum putty and prime the surface.

The video also reflects the moments of soundproofing partitions and installation attachments: shelves, plumbing fixtures.

Advantages of tongue-and-groove slabs:

ease of assembly
simplicity of opening openings
minimal finishing
does not require plastering work
low price
high fire resistance

A tongue-and-groove slab is a gypsum rectangle with grooves and ridges around the perimeter. The advantage of a partition made of PGP compared to a partition made of brick is the speed of installation, which does not require the skill of a mason. The vertical surface of the wall, thanks to the grooves/ridges, will be almost ideal, eliminating subsequent plastering. There is also no need to mix a large volume of masonry mortar. For an average partition of 20 squares, one bag of Knauf gypsum mixture is enough. So let's get started.

Marking the first row of an interior partition made of PGP

The most time-consuming part is breaking down the dimensions of the future partition, marking the openings and scrupulously aligning the first row, taking into account the horizontal and vertical.

First we prepare all the slabs for the first row. Dry lay out the blocks along the entire length of the wall, check the dimensions, draw a single general line along the length of the base of the slabs with a marker, and use a laser level.

The slab is placed with the ridge up, respectively, the groove in the lower part of the slab is cut down to the base with a pick, then ground with a plane for stability.

The part of the slabs marked with a dotted line is removed.

Partition masonry

If the floor surface is not level or there is no floor screed at all, it is more advisable to level the first row by installing blocks on a cement-sand mortar, since the gypsum mixture sets quickly. It is better to mix the gypsum mixture (glue) in small quantities for a maximum of 5-10 slabs.

The consistency of the glue, like thick sour cream, is applied with a spatula in a thin layer (no more than 5 mm) along the vertical and horizontal edges of the slab with a quick movement, wiping the glue towards you with the flat of the spatula. We seal the seams by gently tapping the slab with a rubber mallet. Use squeezed glue to seal the seams and cover minor chips and cracks.

If we start laying the partition with a whole slab, then the next row for bandaging the seams will be a half.

Be sure to fasten it through the row with self-tapping screws to the external wall and connect the partition from tongue-and-groove plates with galvanized fastening angles.

The corner is placed along the edge of the slab for rigidity, recessed into the groove using a chisel or hacksaw. We fix the corner next row.
Do not forget to use a level to control the verticality and horizon of each slab, if necessary, adjusting the slab or upsetting it using a block and a rubber mallet.

Gypsum boards are pliable and can be sawed with an ordinary hacksaw when you need halves, quarters, pieces for doorways, corners or beacons.

Working with a hacksaw will be enough, so in order not to bother yourself with endless cutting, I advise you to make a 1.5-2 centimeter notch on both sides. Place the slab with a notch on the edge of a stack of slabs or a trestle, and lift it, holding it and release it without force. If necessary, the fracture is smoothed with a plane.

As the partition is erected doorway Instead of a lintel, we cover it with a block of thickness close to the width of the slab. We attach the block to the PGP with self-tapping screws at an angle.

Doorway arrangement

Depending on the size of the door and the angles of the corners, it is not always possible to make an opening from PGP. Sometimes it is necessary to use other materials to adjust sizes doorway without compromising the space of the room.

In this case, a brick was used, installed “on the butt” on cement mortar. The ends of each brick are connected with a large nail driven into the slab and fixed with the next brick. Additional rigidity of the structure will be provided by subsequent puttying of the partition with fiberglass mesh.

The lintel will be finished with plasterboard to make the structure lighter.

To facilitate the process of creating an opening and if the door can be positioned arbitrarily, then we build a solid wall, and then, after a day or two, we cut out the opening with a reciprocating jigsaw, focusing on the seams of the dressing.

We complete the construction of the partition from tongue-and-groove slabs with the last row under the ceiling. We saw the blocks of the last row lengthwise 1-1.5 cm less than the required height for foaming with polyurethane foam.

Conclusion

On the Internet, opinions on PGP partitions are divided. In my opinion, the benefit for the customer is obvious. Provided you carefully lay out the first row, have your own desire, patience and a partner, you can build a partition from tongue-and-groove slabs with your own hands quickly without much effort.

Partitions made from PGP are used for redevelopment of premises or delimitation of apartments in new buildings. They are distinguished by their smooth surface, ease of installation and budget cost. The blocks are connected using a tongue-and-groove system, the seams on the finished structure are minimal. This makes it possible not to putty, but to immediately coat the wall with a primer and decorate it.

Tongue-and-groove slabs for partitions are rectangular elements with longitudinal grooves and protrusions (ridges) at the joints, necessary for a strong and seamless bond. Their standard sizes- 667x500x80 mm, thickness can be 100 mm.

There are tongue-and-groove slabs for large partitions, with a height from floor to ceiling.

Their installation is very fast, but you can’t handle it yourself - due to the large weight of the building elements, a whole team is involved in the installation.

Types of tongue-and-groove blocks for interior partitions, depending on the material of manufacture:

View	Preparation method	Positive traits
Gypsum boards	Made from gypsum with plasticizing additives. Gypsum blocks for partitions are divided into moisture-resistant (green) and those whose moisture permeability is high.	Allowed for installation in children's rooms. Another advantage of gypsum blocks is their ease of processing. Gypsum blocks can be sawn at any angle - gypsum elements can be used to create structures of various shapes and configurations.
Silicate blocks	From quicklime and water with added quartz sand using an autoclave.	They have significant noise insulation qualities. Compared to gypsum, they are resistant to moisture, have greater strength and durability.

PGP partitions can be solid or hollow. The latter weigh less (22 kg compared to 28 for monolithic ones), but cannot withstand hanging massive household items.

Advantages of GGP partitions

The general advantages of partitions made of gypsum or silicone tongue-and-groove boards are:

The use of hollow slabs reduces the load on the supporting base.

The main advantage of such building elements: installation of tongue-and-groove partitions is not difficult. Finished design does not require special finishing work. There is no need to plaster the wall, just cover it with a primer and decorate it.

Installation of partitions from PGP

The installation of partition elements made of gypsum or silicate in the apartment begins after the construction of load-bearing parts, but before laying the subfloor and starting painting and plastering work.

Installation of a partition made of standard-sized tongue-and-groove slabs takes only two to three days. This is due to the convenient tongue-and-groove system and the absence of the need for additional reinforcement.

When joining, any deviations along the planes are eliminated, which allows you to quickly assemble an even wall without even a millimeter error.

If you need to hide communications, special grooves are made in solid blocks. In hollow ones, wires and pipes can be laid in the internal cavity. If the construction of partitions from PGP does not involve gating, the double wall method is used. But they “eat up” twice as much space.

Materials and tools

To build a partition from tongue-and-groove slabs you will need the following set of tools:

roulette;
electric drill;
mallet;
construction level;
putty knife;
hand saw;
ruler, pencil;
screwdriver;
mixer for mixing glue.

The materials you will need are the blocks themselves, a cork or felt seal, edge tape, rope, glue, and primer. Fastening elements are also needed: screws, dowel-nails, fixing brackets - straight hangers or corners.

Preparatory work

The construction of a partition created from tongue-and-groove blocks requires certain preparation. First of all, you need to check the compliance of the floor and ceiling horizontal levels, and make sure that the tongue-and-groove slabs are closely adjacent to them: smooth out prominent irregularities, fill cracked areas and depressions with a solution of cement and sand.

The blocks are brought into the room no later than 24 hours before installation so that the material “adapts”, that is, has the necessary humidity and temperature.

To build the wall, gypsum-based acrylic adhesive is used.

But it is very expensive, so many people replace it with regular tile adhesive or a mortar of cement and sand in a 1:3 ratio with the addition of polyvinyl acetate glue. If everything is thoroughly mixed, the result is a fairly plastic and finely dispersed mixture that can be easily applied with a spatula. It is easier to make masonry with mortar, since its setting time is longer than that of gypsum glue.

Before constructing interior partitions, all surface areas in contact with them are primed and marked according to the previously created drawing.

Laying tongue-and-groove blocks

It is not difficult to assemble a partition from tongue-and-groove slabs with your own hands. The main thing is not to violate the technology when constructing a bulkhead from PGP.

Installation instructions for partitions made of tongue-and-groove slabs - step-by-step instruction:

If the structure of a false wall requires an opening for a door, it is necessary to fix the blocks located on top. When installing one row of blocks over an opening up to 0.8 m wide, it is permissible to install them on a door frame or a non-permanent wooden lintel.

If the width is more than 0.8 m or it is necessary to lay several rows, you will need to install a lintel for tongue-and-groove slabs made of wooden blocks or a metal channel.

It is mounted with glue in specially made cuts approximately 5 cm deep in corner blocks. After the solution has dried, the top rows of slabs are installed.

After finishing the work, the tongue-and-groove partitions need to be primed. Especially if tongue-and-groove gypsum boards were used. The primer ensures adhesion of the decorative layer and will avoid the appearance of surface defects.

Any type of wallpaper and painting are suitable for finishing. It is better to finish the kitchen and bathroom tiles or plastic panels. For the living room, children's room, and bedroom, wallpaper or decorative plaster is often chosen.