Angle cutting. Making a rip fence and other useful accessories for a circular saw. A device for sawing at an angle

A hand-held electric circular saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.

It usually comes complete with devices that help the master in his work.

But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. And work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely homemade devices (as they are called), which, despite their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.

Rip fence

A regular rip fence for a circular saw is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a rip fence for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful device.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values that allow it to be used to make cuts less than 20–25 mm wide. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the saw guard. But it is enough to attach a wooden block with self-tapping screws to the parallel strip of the standard stop - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts of less than 15 mm, the block does not allow the protective casing to cover the saw blade.

Stop for cross and corner cuts

The crosscut jig is also often used. With its help, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90°. This type of stop is also used for cutting boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide block or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed to it with glue or self-tapping screws. A stop is attached to the bottom side of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made from the same block.

The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of manual circular saw, the device is always made individually. It is usually secured to the material being processed with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their fastening devices from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamping is carried out by a wing nut on the screw. This clamping device allows you to very quickly secure the fence to lumber of different widths.

If you install the same block on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45° to the first one, and then cut off part of the base with a saw at 45°, you will get a universal angular stop for cuts at both 45° and 90°. A more universal design of the angle stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And you can monitor compliance with the angle using a protractor attached to the top. It should be noted that making a protractor for a circular saw with your own hands is a more difficult task.

Saddle stop

If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then it’s worth spending time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when cutting thick beams, for which the disk requires two cuts from different sides.

The saddle stop is U-shaped. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.

The side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the beam in order to provide support for the circular saw platform until the saw blade comes into contact with the beam.

The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and through the sidewalls it is pressed against the beam with clamps. Using the sidewall as a support for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the timber is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.

Guide rail

For cutting large and long sheet lumber on the table, a long DIY circular saw guide bar will be useful.

The basis in this case is an (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet being cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a block 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it there should be a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other side, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After this, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disk. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is secured and the sheet is sawed.

Edge stop

This is already a rather complex device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work so as not to miss the dimensions. Actually, such a stop is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always ensure an even cut. The large size and the desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. You can also make a thrust bar from it.

Stages of manufacturing the stop:

longitudinal grooves are made at the base for the keys;
hardwood dowels are mounted on a stop strip;
Another through groove is made between the longitudinal grooves to secure the thrust bar during operation;
a hole is cut in the base for a circular saw blade;
On the sides of the base, restrictive strips are placed for installing the circular and clamps are provided to secure it securely.

When installing the stop on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is secured through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to have to worry about the ruler every time, you can attach it (or a piece of tape measure) to the base of the stop along the guide grooves.

There are such small devices that it’s shameful to even consider them a tool. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.

Installation bars

The simplest part that makes it easier to install any stop and guide along the markings is a small block of cross-section. There are cuts on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two such bars will help you install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. All that remains is to secure the guide.

Pull-out protection

The protection can be any block whose width corresponds to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is secured at the point where the saw blade exits the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing out and chipping.

These devices are not limited to the set useful homemade products, which make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular saw with their own hands. There would be a desire.

Installing baguettes and skirting boards gives the renovation a finished and neat look, but only if the trimming is done correctly and all joints meet perfectly evenly. For pruning, different tools and methods are used to make the work easier, but it is also important to take into account many nuances, which we will talk about today.

Types of ceiling and floor skirting boards, selection of tools

Installation of baguettes and baseboards is no less important stage of repair than any other. And cutting the corners is the most difficult part here. It is important to choose the right tool for the job and the most suitable cutting method.

Ceiling plinth

Ceiling molding, also known as molding, fillet, border or simply plinth, is most often used to finish the joint between a wall and a ceiling. Although sometimes it is used to cover internal corners, make decorative frames or panels, and decorate niches and architectural elements. There are several most popular materials for making ceiling moldings:

Plastic (polyvinyl chloride). It is more convenient to cut wide and rigid moldings with a hacksaw. If you need a more gentle tool, use a jigsaw.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene). A very light and porous material that is best cut with a sharp construction or stationery knife.

Wooden baguettes. Saws with helical sharpening, specially designed for baguettes, are suitable for cutting. You can also use hand or jigsaws.

Floor plinth

A modern floor plinth can hardly be called a plank that closes a gap. This is a structural component that complements the design and emphasizes the overall design. Skirting boards are made from several materials:

Wooden can be made of solid wood or veneer. For pruning, flat or circular saws and jigsaws are used.

Plastic skirting boards- “dangerous” competitors to traditional wood. Easy to install and cut with a regular hacksaw.

Aluminum skirting boards- the last word in interior design. They are usually cut with an electric saw or a hand saw for metal.

Only on wooden baseboards will you have to make corner trims. The rest are cut straight and connected using special corners.

Types of angles

Corner joining and trimming of the plinth differs depending on the type of corner; they are distinguished: internal, external and non-standard.

An internal angle, in other words, an angle of a room less than 180°, is usually 90°. When pruning internal corner Bottom part The ceiling plinth always protrudes above the top. The first step is to measure the angle between the walls; if it is standard and equal to 90°, then the planks are cut at an angle of 45°. The baguette that is glued on the right side should be cut on the left, and the left strip on the right.

The external or external angle is less common, it is more than 180°, usually around 270°. When working with such angles, everything is exactly the opposite. The edge of the plinth that will press against the ceiling should be larger than the bottom.

Non-standard angles. These most often mean angles with a degree greater or less than the standard of 90° and 270°, as well as various types of rounding. In this case, pruning is carried out “by eye” or with markings in place. Areas with curves are assembled from several small elements, each of which is adjusted in turn.

Methods for cutting skirting boards

If the corners are standard, it is most convenient to cut the baseboards using a miter box or stencil. In other cases, they resort to the method of marking in place.

Cutting a baguette using a miter box

A miter box is a carpentry tool that is designed specifically for cutting baguettes. It can be made of plastic, wood or metal. The shape resembles a tray with slits (grooves) on the walls. The miter box helps to correctly determine the angle of inclination and evenly cut the bar at 45, 60 or 90 degrees. Some models may have more graduation guides.

When working with a miter box, it is important to place the baguette correctly:

The end cut of the baguette has the shape of an irregular triangle, so the side that will be glued to the ceiling is pressed against the bottom of the miter box, and the wall side against the wall of the instrument.
The cut is made through opposite grooves. If you need to cut a baguette at an internal angle, then it is cut at an acute angle, and if it is an external angle, at an obtuse angle.
Ceiling plinths are always laid against the nearest wall. The left part is placed on the left side, and the right part, respectively, on the right.
Floor plinths are applied to the far wall of the miter box, “away from you.” Corners are cut using the same principle.

A stencil is nothing more than a flat imitation of a miter box. It's not difficult to make. To begin with, you should arm yourself with a ruler, pencil and protractor.

Two parallel lines are drawn on a flat surface, the width between which should not be less than the width of the baguette. A perpendicular is drawn in the middle of the segments. All angles must be 90°. Next, this segment connecting the two parallels is divided in half and two more lines are drawn through the point at an angle of 45° from the perpendicular. Place a baguette on the stencil, just like in a miter box.

Cutting with pencil marks

This is another way to cut a baguette evenly without a miter box.

For the inside corner. The plinth is applied to the ceiling as it will stand, to the left of the corner, and a line is drawn on the ceiling. Then the segment is applied to the other side, to the right of the corner, and a line is also drawn on the ceiling. The two lines should form an intersection point. Again, apply the plinth pieces one by one and lower a straight line from the intersection point to the bottom edge of the plinth; it will be the cut line.

For outside corner. Place the plinth to the right of the corner and draw a line on the ceiling with a pencil beyond the corner of the wall connection. After this, apply the plinth on the left side of the corner and draw a second line to the intersection with the first. The intersection point is transferred to the upper edge of the baguette. The point where the corner of the walls and the inner bottom edge of the baguette meet will be the second mark. The two points are connected and the baguette is cut along the line.

Cutting wide molding with a pattern

If a large pattern on the surface of the border falls exactly at the junction of the internal corner, it will have to be adjusted, otherwise the overall appearance will be spoiled.

A section with a pattern is cut out of the ceiling molding, leaving a 5 cm margin on the sides. The resulting area is divided in half, that is, an even cut is made in the middle of the pattern. After this, the baguette is cut alternately in a miter box or by eye.

Some useful tips that will help you in your work:

Before you start making final cuts, it is worth practicing on a small section.
The baguette should be cut from the front side, then the unevenness of the cut will remain on the back side.
The cut can be carefully trimmed with a knife or sandpaper.
The baseboard should be cut on a hard, flat surface.
If a miter box is used, for convenience it can be attached to work surface self-tapping screws.
If the result is unsatisfactory and gaps at the joints are still visible, they can be carefully puttied.

If the corners in the room being renovated are even, you can buy ready-made corners for the chosen type of baguette and completely avoid the stage of cutting corners.

The ceiling plinth is a decorative element that emphasizes the decoration of the ceiling and walls. Without it, the entire design of these surfaces can often look somehow unfinished. Accordingly, the installation of such skirting boards (or, as they are often called, fillets or baguettes) must be perfect, with precise adjustment of all connecting joints.

On straight sections of the ceiling, it is not so difficult to fix and connect the planks. But corner joints cause difficulties for many beginning craftsmen. Therefore, for those who have decided to do the finishing work themselves, and are doing this for the first time, it will be important to figure out in advance how to make a corner of the ceiling plinth. The process of fitting parts in corner areas will be discussed in this publication.

Materials for making ceiling plinths

What options are possible?

To begin with, a few words about what it can be made from.

The classic material for the manufacture of such elements of interior decor has long been gypsum. It was from it that various parts were cast that decorate the halls of rich houses and palaces. Gypsum skirting boards, as a rule, had intricate reliefs and different sizes.

Gypsum plinth is still produced today, but due to its considerable cost, heaviness and fragility, it has begun to lose popularity to products made from other materials.

Today, real gypsum products for this purpose are usually produced to order, as they have a fairly high cost both in production and installation. Most often they are cast in small batches for restoration work when restoring architectural monuments.

However, the appearance of gypsum fillets still remains attractive, as they are an excellent finishing touch for rooms made in various styles. Therefore, in our time, customers are offered a wide variety of analogues from other modern, cheaper and lighter materials - polystyrene foam and polyurethane. They perfectly imitate natural gypsum fillets.

Ceiling plinths made of polystyrene foam - by visual perception after finishing is completed, it is almost impossible to distinguish them from plaster ones

Such fillets have a number of undeniable advantages - they are light weight, which greatly facilitates their installation, a wide range of relief patterns and widths of the strips. They fit perfectly into different design solutions, both classic and modern styles interior design.

Making wooden skirting boards decorated with carvings is a very labor-intensive process, and this affects the cost of such products

It is impossible not to mention, since they are quite popular for rooms lined with natural lining, which never goes out of fashion.

Skirting boards made from this natural wood or from composites based on it have their own advantages - durability, the possibility of repeated repainting in different shades and colors, as well as high reliability of fastening to surfaces.

Wooden skirting boards with various relief patterns are made to order. The disadvantage of wooden fillets is their high cost, since very often they require self made masters

Cutting a plinth made of any material, as well as adjusting its corners, is carried out using the same method. The difference may be in the use of tools for marking and cutting, in the methods of attaching fillets to the surface of the wall and/or ceiling.

Features of cutting skirting boards from different materials

Due to the fact that the materials from which fillets are made react differently to the impact of cutting tools on them, before you start cutting the plinth, you should familiarize yourself with some of the features of the process. This information will help avoid accidental damage to products.

Wood can be called the most durable of all the listed materials used in our time for the manufacture of decorative ceiling strips. Therefore, when cutting it, greater resistance arises, due to which burrs and chips can easily form on the cut. Wooden skirting boards, especially those that are small in width, must be sawed with a fine-toothed wood saw or electric jigsaw, also with a “gentle” nail file.

The structure of the material is clearly visible on the cut of the foam baguette

Expanded polystyrene (foam) is the most fragile of all these materials, so it can easily begin to crumble. It is best to cut it with a sharp stationery or construction knife. When carrying out the cutting process, it is not recommended to press the blade hard on the fillet, since the cut area can be pressed through, which will ruin appearance planks. The work must be done extremely carefully, slowly, without allowing any deformation or crumbling on the cut.

These products also need to be manufactured with care. Expanded polystyrene strips are not devoid of elasticity, but it is not so pronounced that it would allow the skirting boards to completely follow the shape of a clearly uneven surface. And if you press hard on the baseboard, it may simply break.

Considering the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, it is best to purchase planks with a reserve in case they are damaged. The low cost of such fillets allows this to be done.

Products made from extruded polystyrene foam, along with low density, are distinguished by much higher strength indicators

Extruded polystyrene foam is more durable and reliable, it is easy to cut and does not crumble. Cutting a plinth from this material is much easier, since burrs or cavities rarely form on it. However, just like foam plastic ones, they do not have sufficient flexibility, so it is problematic to stay on a curved section of the surface.

Cutting products from this material can be done using a sharp knife or a hacksaw for metal, with a blade with fine teeth.

Flexible polyurethane skirting board

Polyurethane. Both rigid and flexible plinths are made from it, so they can be attached to a not very smooth wall or a curved section of finishing (for example, when framing an arched vault, column, etc.).

Flexible products made from this material can only be cut with a sharp knife, while rigid products can be cut in the same way as extruded polystyrene foam. The cost of polyurethane skirting boards is quite high, so negligence or mistakes can cause considerable unnecessary costs.

How to adjust the corners of the ceiling plinth

Preparatory work

Before proceeding directly to the work of forming corners, it is necessary to carry out some preliminary activities, consisting of organizing the workplace and preparing the necessary tools.

To cut a baguette you may need:

Ruler, tape measure, square, pencil.
Goniometer or protractor.
A stationery or construction knife with replaceable blades.
Hacksaw with fine teeth.
Miter box.
A laser level is desirable, but not required.

The miter box allows you to evenly cut slats, baseboards, and other finishing parts at an angle of 45, 60 or 90 degrees.

A miter box is not an expensive, complex device, so it can be purchased even if it is needed for one repair. It will be even good if this tool complements the standard home workshop set. The miter box is a kind of box, in the walls of which guide cuts are made for the cutter, made in both directions at an angle of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. The tool can be made of plastic or wood. In its bottom part, holes are often provided for attaching it to a workbench - to ensure immobility.

Methods for forming corners

As a rule, ceiling plinths have a complex relief surface. It is this that creates difficulties when forming a right angle from two of its segments without leaving slit-like gaps.

In addition, the corners in the premises of apartments and houses quite often differ from straight lines, that is, from 90 degrees, which also makes it difficult to adjust the baseboard. And it must be trimmed so that there are no gaps at the junction, otherwise they will spoil the appearance.

Another nuance that is important to consider when cutting planks is the location of the corners. As you know, there are two types of them - internal and external. Most often in standard rooms modern apartments Only internal angles are present. External corners are typical for rooms that have one or more turns, such as an entryway or corridor, or that have niches or projections.

Trimming the baguette to decorate external and internal corners is somewhat different.

Diagram of internal and external corners

There are several ways to achieve a perfect or almost perfect corner joint of the baseboard. In one of them you can use a miter box, in another you can use a laser level, in others you can make markings using a square and a ruler. The simplest of them is the first option, but its use is only possible if the adjacent walls of the room form an angle of 90 degrees.

Using a miter box

Before starting work, you will have to check the perpendicularity of the walls in the corners to make sure that it makes sense to cut the plinth along the miter box. Control is carried out using a large square or a special tool - a protractor. A protractor is a professional tool, and not everyone has one, but it is a must to have a protractor in your household.

An inclinometer is a device that allows you to accurately determine the angle

If it turns out that the angles are straight, or do not differ very much from the desired 90 degrees, then you can safely cut the planks at an angle of 45 degrees, placing them in a miter box. It will be better if the miter box is first secured to the tabletop. If displacement is allowed during work, serious errors may occur in the cut of the plinth, resulting in a sloppy joint.

In order for the baseboards to fit together perfectly at a 90-degree angle, their edges must be cut in a mirror image at a 45-degree angle. They can be cut individually or simultaneously in a package.

When choosing the second option, the planks must be folded together with their back sides facing each other, and then fixed in this position in several places with strips of masking tape. If the skirting boards are not fastened, then when cutting with a package, their displacement cannot be avoided.

Scheme of laying the left and right planks in a miter box when cutting them separately

If it is decided to cut each plank separately, then they are laid and cut one by one, but when cutting they are laid in the opposite direction. That is, one baguette is cut along the left guide cuts of the miter box, located at an angle of 45 degrees, and the second - along the right.

Combining two cut strips

The next step is to combine the two cut strips with each other. First, the test is carried out on the table, and then installation is carried out under the ceiling in the corner being finished. Only by attaching the baguette to the future installation site can you see the real picture. If small errors occur, the ends of the baguette segments should be corrected using a sharp knife.
Only after the planks have been adjusted as closely as possible can they be fixed with glue.

As for the difference in the execution of cuts made using a miter box for different types angles (external and internal), then it is clearly shown in the diagrams below.

Demonstration of examples of cutting a baguette using a miter box to form the internal and external corner of the ceiling plinth

If you carefully study the diagrams, you can see that the cuts are made from different sides of the edge of the baguette, that is, for the internal corner the hacksaw is installed at an angle of 45 degrees from the main surface of the plank to its edge (when viewed from top to bottom), and for the external corner - vice versa .

Making a miter box or template

If the corners in the room turn out to be even, but you don’t have a miter box at hand, then you can make such a device or a simplified version - a template yourself. You can do it in several ways.

First option

If you need a miter box for constant work, but for some reason there is no opportunity to purchase it at the moment, then you can make such a tool from plywood or a well-treated board. For this purpose, you will need to prepare three wooden parts. The walls should have dimensions of 500×100×15 and 500×80×15, and the bottom should be 500×200×20 mm. Different wall heights will make cutting down parts more comfortable. The parts will be used to assemble a kind of box without end walls.

Homemade miter box: 1. Side walls. 2. Bottom of the product

The walls are attached to the bottom of the future miter box - it is best to fix them by gluing them into drilled holes wooden dowels, but you can also use regular screws.

Before fixing the walls, it is very important to set them perfectly level, since they must be located at right angles to the bottom board.

Marking a homemade miter box

Next, you need to find the middle of the length of the walls and mark it using a construction square and immediately file it at the same time, since the cuts must be exactly on the same line. The cutting depth is 60 mm.
After this, retreating approximately 150 mm in each direction from the middle, two more marks are made on one of the ends of the walls. Then, using a protractor or protractor, set the direction to 45 degrees. Lines are drawn at the ends of the side walls.
After drawing the lines, their slope should be double-checked, and then cuts should be made using a beam saw. It is very important that when forming cuts the vertical plane is strictly maintained, otherwise the miter box will be produced with a large error. The cuts should sink 3÷5 mm into the base of the board.

The miter box itself is a simple tool, but making a really high-quality device is not so easy, since there is a high probability of mitering the cuts, at least slightly. Therefore, it is best, if you plan, to immediately take care of purchasing a miter box. Fortunately, it is not expensive.

Second option

This method self-made The template can be called the simplest, since it does not require special skills or complex tools. To work, you need a sheet of thick paper or cardboard in A4 format, a simple pencil, a ruler and a protractor.

The manufacturing process takes place in the following sequence:

The first step is to set aside 30÷50 mm on both sides of the sheet from its edge.
Using these marks, two lines are drawn perpendicular to each other and parallel to the edges of the sheet.
At the point of their intersection, the vertex of a right angle is formed.
The next step, using a protractor or simple graphic constructions, is to divide the right angle into two equal halves, which form angles of 45 degrees. The dividing line - the bisector should be located both above and below the lines - it is better to bring it to the middle or even to the edge of the sheet. This will help to more accurately mark the edge of a baguette of any width at the desired angle.

Fitting a baguette using a homemade template

A whole baguette is attached to the resulting template, for example, on the left side. A cut is marked on it, which should coincide with the bisector line. The top and bottom points are marked on the bar, then they are connected to each other, forming a cutting line. Then, the right plinth is marked and cut off in the same way.
After this, a right angle is formed using a template of two planks, which is then tried on at the installation site.
If necessary, the joint is adjusted using a knife.

Third option

This is a modernized previous version, for the manufacture of which you will need a sheet of thick cardboard measuring 300x300 mm, and two even wooden planks measuring 300x30x10 mm.

A sheet of cardboard must have at least two perfectly smooth edges perpendicular to each other.
On these sides of the sheet, wooden strips are fixed with glue, which will also form a right angle.
Then, just as in the previous version, the angle must be divided in half, and it is advisable to draw the intended bisector to the opposite edge of the cardboard sheet. The baguette cuts will be formed along this line.

It is more convenient to work with planks, as there is a good, reliable stop. That is, there is no need to control the alignment of the long side of the plinth with the guide line - just press it against the plank, and then you can mark the cutting line.

Fourth option

Any horizontal plane having a right angle can be adapted to the template. An ordinary rectangular or square workbench or table top is suitable, on which you can also temporarily attach the stop strips, for example, with double-sided tape and mark with a simple pencil a bisector dividing the right angle in half.

The remaining actions are carried out according to the same principle as when using other similar devices.

Using a Laser Level

In modern conditions, many home craftsmen already have in their tool arsenal, which is excellent for checking the straightness of the corner and marking the baguette when forming both internal and external corners.

How this is done is described step by step in the following instruction table.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	First you need to accurately position the laser level itself. To do this, the same distance is set aside from the corner along the joint lines of the floor and walls, for example, 500 mm. The marked points are connected to each other by a diagonal line. After this, its middle is found and marked. The laser level is installed on the floor, turned on, and then placed so that the vertical plane it sets (its projection in the form of a line) passes through the middle marked on the diagonal and coincides with the corner of the room. The beam should pass vertically along the line of the corner - this will also show how smoothly the corner of the room is formed. Essentially, a plane is specified that cuts the corner of the room exactly in the center. It is in this plane that the junction of the skirting boards should be located.
	In this case, the level should be positioned so that the projection of this plane is also displayed on the ceiling. You can fix the resulting bisector line with pencil marks. But it’s even better not to remove the device, as it will help to more accurately display the desired cutting line on the baseboard placed at the place of future fastening. It is probably clear that the next step is to install one baguette at the installation site. The plank must be rested with its end side against the wall. The beam from the laser builder, passing along the surface of the plinth, and even along all its relief protrusions, will accurately show the cut line.
	After this, a cut line is drawn along the beam line using a pencil or thin marker.
	A corner is cut along the intended line using a knife - it is impossible to make a mistake in this case. Then the cutting line is marked and the second plinth is cut in the same way.
	Now that both parts for forming the corner are ready, they need to be connected to each other at the site of future fastening. If the joint is neat, then you can install the baguette with glue. If a small gap has formed between the planks, the ends of the plinth must be adjusted with a knife.
	When installing ceiling plinths, the strips that form the corner are glued first, and the flat areas of the finishing are fixed last.
	If, during the fitting of the corner side of the baguette, its other end ends up on an already fixed piece of plinth, you should immediately mark the required length in order to cut off its excess. In this case, the smooth edge is simply cut at a right angle.
	To correctly cut the baguette for the outer corner, you must also start marking from the floor using a laser level. There is a slight difference in the primary construction here. First, lines are simply drawn along a ruler, which are continuations of the walls. Then an equal distance is laid on them from the corner; these points are connected by a diagonal, on which the center is determined. The beam is directed through this mark to a protruding angle, also with a projection of this plane on the surface of the ceiling.
	Next, pieces of baguette are alternately applied to the wall and the protruding corner so that the beam passes through them. Marking is carried out along the projection line, and then the end part of the plinth is cut. Then you need to try on both sections at the installation site, aligning the cuts. If necessary, the ends of the planks are adjusted. If everything is fine, proceed to fixing the fillets on the surface.

The advantage of using a laser builder is that its beam shows the exact cut line, as it passes along all the relief irregularities of the surface of the baguette. All that remains is to make the correct markings and a neat cut.

Adjustment of ceiling plinth without additional devices

If only the most suitable tools are at hand, simple devices- a ruler, a square and a pencil, then using them you can also make markings and make cuts at the ends of the baguette for their precise alignment. Next, we will consider two methods that are applicable if the corners in the room are far from 90 degrees, since when marking you have to focus only on the actual alignment of the planks at the place of their installation.

First option

In this case, the work occurs in the following order:

Marking line along the first plinth attached to the corner

The first step is to place the molding strip on the site of future installation and press it along its entire length with the end resting in the corner.
Using a pencil, mark its location - draw contours along the upper and lower edges of the plinth.
After this, the baguette is applied to another wall and the same marking procedure is performed.

As a result of the construction, an angle drawn in pencil is formed on the ceiling. Its vertex can be connected to the vertex of the real angle - using the resulting ray it will be easier to mark cut lines.
Now you need to again attach both strips to the corner one by one and draw cutting lines from the corner point to the intersection point, directly along the baguette relief.

Trying on the cut plinth at the installation site

After this, both skirting boards are trimmed along the marking lines. All that remains is to try them on in the corner, as they say, in place. If they match well, then they are installed on a permanent basis.

Combining two trimmed baguettes in the corner

If necessary, the edges of the baguettes are trimmed or cleaned using sandpaper.

Second option

Another way to form a corner from a baguette using the simplest tools. Its complexity lies in the fact that it is necessary to simultaneously press both baseboards to the walls and mark the future cut.

The work is carried out in the following order:

One of the two plinths is pressed against one wall of the corner with its back side, and against the other with its end part. It is better to immediately mark its location with a pencil by drawing a line along it on the wall.
Then, the second baguette is pressed against it with its end. After that, a line is drawn on the first plinth along which both plinths intersect.
Next, the skirting boards are removed and adjusted on the table. A cut is made along the intended line of the first plinth. Then a second bar is attached to it, a cut is outlined and made, and the accuracy and accuracy of joining the parts is checked.

Transferring the cut line from one fillet to the second

If after trimming there is no gap between the baguettes, you can glue them in place.
If a gap forms, it is necessary to make adjustments - cut in the right place with a knife.

It must be said right away that not all skirting board profiles can be adjusted to each other in a similar way. Therefore, when purchasing baguette slats, it makes sense to take one extra so that you can practice on it. But this may not help either - such an adjustment is too primitive.

By the way, if, when forming an angle between the ends of the planks, a small gap nevertheless appears, and you cannot completely get rid of it, then it can be masked by filling it with white sealant or diluted finishing putty. After such a “patch” has dried, it is processed with fine-grained sandpaper.

Decorative connecting corners

The easiest way to join a plinth in a corner is to use ready-made decorative corners, which are sold separately, but are often universal as they fit many profiles. The main thing is to choose the right corner to match the width of the plinth and the overall style of its design, so that it does not look too “conflicting.”

Such corners are made from both polystyrene foam and polyurethane, so it is better to purchase them together with the main finish in order to choose not only the pattern and joining method, but also the material.

Examples of corner joining elements

These elements come in several types:

Corners to which the plinth is joined end-to-end. This option is presented in the illustration above - left fragment. This option is suitable for verified right angles.
Corners under which the edges of the baguette are hidden - one of the models is shown in a fragment of the picture. Such inserts allow you to decorate corners that have errors in their perpendicularity.

External decorative corners are usually designed to hide the ends of the baguette slats.

Installation of these elements is simple. The corner is first glued at the junction of two walls of the room. Before joining the skirting boards to it, the glue must dry completely. After this, the end of the baguette is leveled and glued end-to-end or inserted into the groove on the side of the decorative corner.

* * * * * * *

Having understood the technology of joining ceiling plinths at the corners, armed with the best possible tool, you can move on to performing this task yourself. Don’t despair if the first time it doesn’t work out the way you would like: a little effort, maximum accuracy - and the result will not be long in coming.

In conclusion, here’s a short video tutorial on how to adjust the corners of ceiling plinths if you don’t have a miter box at your disposal.

Video: How to adjust the corners of a ceiling plinth if you don’t have a miter box

Often a beautiful picture is spoiled by the smallest details. When renovating an apartment or house, these are usually wallpaper joints that are just a millimeter apart or an incorrectly cut corner at the ceiling plinth, which is clearly visible in the photo.

Cutting the ceiling plinth using a miter box will help you avoid problems with the baguette.

What is a miter box for baseboards

The unusual name of the carpentry tool “miter box” comes from the German word “Stoßlade”, which, literally translated, means tsulaga (press) for miter cutting. In common parlance, a miter box is a tray resembling an inverted letter “P” in shape with paired oblique slits in the side slats located at a certain angle to the central axis.

The size of the cut slots should allow the cutting tool, saw or hacksaw to move freely, but without lateral play.

The classic number of slots is six, three on each side: two for cutting at an angle of 45 degrees (left and right parts) and one for a right angle (some tool models have slots at an angle of 15, 30.60, and 135 o or in increments of 15 o). Using this device, an angle of 45 o is cut at the baseboard for precise and beautiful connection of the baguette in the corners.

It is possible to accurately cut down the skirting board without various devices. There are time-tested technologies for this. However, this is difficult and only professionals with extensive experience can do it. For self-taught people, it is better to use a miter box for ceiling plinths, which allows you to get a perfectly accurate connecting angle easily and simply.

In what cases is it used?

It is a mistake to think that the device was invented solely for cutting corners on a baguette. The must, on the contrary, came from other areas of carpentry in the decoration of walls and ceilings. This construction tool is actively used for:

production of door frames;
installation of door and window frames;
production of glazing beads for fastening window glass;
preparing strips for frames for photographs and paintings;
cutting cable ducts;
cutting corners at floor and ceiling plinths.

Using a miter box as a device for working with fillets allows you to file down the ends so that they touch at the corners without gaps.

Types of miter box

Miter boxes are classified by type according to three criteria:

size;
the material from which the instrument is made;
designs.

Size

Based on the first feature, there are two standard sizes:

standard. Designed for working with narrow parts: ceiling plinths, glazing beads, frame strips (for photos and paintings), etc.;

big. The design of such devices does not differ from standard ones. The only difference is the length and width of the tool, as well as the height of the bars. The corners of the floor plinth, platbands, door frame etc.

Material

On sale you can find miter boxes made of different materials:

wood;
plastic;
metal, mainly aluminum.

Wooden tool models have good performance characteristics: ease of use and cutting accuracy, which together with affordable price made this type of device for cutting materials at a given angle the most widespread. Adding advantages to a tool made from boards is the ability to make a miter box for the baseboard with your own hands.

Structurally wooden tools are made of 3 boards, one of which is the base, the other two are side strips with slots for different angles. They can be dismountable - fastened with self-tapping screws and non-dismountable - the connection of the planks to the base is adhesive with the addition of self-tapping screws for rigidity.

The disadvantages include a short service life - when working with a hacksaw or a saw, the teeth of the cutting tool file down the sides of the slot, as a result of which the groove increases in size. A lateral displacement of 1-2 o appears, which immediately affects the quality of the baguette connection in the corners. Therefore, for professional carpenters, tool models made from other materials are preferable. But for doing housework, this is an ideal option.

Tools made of plastic, mainly PVC, have a budget price (polyurethane ones are more expensive), a variety of standard sizes and low weight. They are a one-piece construction with slots on the sides. It is used exclusively at home, since the service life is even shorter than that of its wooden counterpart: the slots increase in size much faster, exceeding the permissible standard.

Miter boxes made of steel or aluminum are tools for professionals. These are durable and easy-to-use products with high precision cutting. The price matches the quality: it is very high.

Design

By design features miter boxes are divided:

on simple or, as they are also called, ordinary ones. They are templates with predetermined cutting angles. In the classic version, there are three pairs of grooves: for the right and left baguette at 45 o and a transverse cut. In some models you can find up to 11 pairs of slots. When working with such a tool, it must be fixed on the workbench using a clamp. The second clamp secures the workpiece, from which you need to cut off a corner according to a given template. Often you have to work without clamps. In this case, the plinth and miter box are held with one hand, and the corner of the fillet is filed with the other. If you work in such conditions carefully, without rushing, you can saw off a corner with the same quality as when using fixing tools;

rotary. Such tools are better known as precision miter boxes. It consists of a rotating platform and a disk segment on which degrees are marked, which allows you to cut any angle. A number of models can also be tilted, which makes it possible to cut the part at the end in two planes at once (called universal). It is convenient to work with such a device for a small number of operations - manual sawing is still exhausting.

electric. These are the same rotary tools, but with a circular saw. They are used mainly by professional builders for mass filing of corners, although such a mechanism is also found among household tools.

Principle and rules of working with the device

For many owners of an apartment or house who carry out renovations on their own, it is news that there are special devices for cutting the corners of a baguette. Therefore, they are poorly versed in how to use a miter box for baseboards.

The very principle of using the device is extremely simple. Take a baguette and fasten it in a miter box opposite the 45 o slot in the same position as it will be glued to the wall. At the same time, it should protrude 1-2 cm beyond the boundaries of the zone in which the corner will be cut, which will make it possible to obtain a smooth, chip-free end. The workpiece is fixed with clamps, and in their absence, it is pressed to the base of the device by hand. There's a little trick here: it is more convenient to cut if the saw is located on the side of the working hand (the grooves in the tool allow this to be done).

Knowledge of the operating principle does not guarantee accurate and beautiful connection of the baguette in the corners. You also need to know the basic rules of how to cut with a miter box ceiling plinth.

The cutting tool must match the material of the fillet. It is best to cut polystyrene foam with a knife with a replaceable blade. Plastic - with a knife, a hacksaw or a grinder with a diamond-coated cutting wheel. Wooden fillet - using a fine-tooth wood saw.
Baguettes with relief or ornament must be combined according to the pattern.
To avoid mistakes when determining the direction of the cut, you need to mark in advance with a pencil the line along which the saw will go. There is no need for special precision here: the main thing is to correctly indicate the chosen direction.
You need to start cutting after checking the quality of fixation of the plinth in the tool: whether it is installed correctly; How securely is it fixed?

Which miter box to choose in the store

When choosing a device, you need to focus on its functionality (at what angle and on what planes to cut the workpiece) and the volume of work performed. Simple, U-shaped tools are purchased if you are going to install a floor or ceiling plinth on your own; rotary tools are intended for craftsmen. If you need a complex cut in 2 planes, then a non-professional will have to buy a rotary miter box.

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

the material from which the device is made;
base width;
wall thickness;
the presence of a cutting tool in the kit;
number of slots (the more, the better);
the presence of clamps (fasteners);
How free is the saw?

You can buy a simple device without a hacksaw for 87-820 rubles. The cost of a rotary miter box starts from 1300 rubles. It is difficult to say how much an electric tool costs, even approximately. The price difference is huge. You can buy a miter saw for 6 thousand rubles, and for 25 thousand rubles.

Among the brands stand out:

The model is made of durable plastic. There are slots at angles of 22.5, 45, 90 and 135 o for vertical cutting and 45 o for inclined sawing. The price of the tool starts from 335 rubles.

Material: one-piece impact-resistant plastic. Cuts can be made at an angle of 22.5, 45 and 90 o vertically and 45 o horizontally. Allows you to make very precise cuts. The cost starts from 770 rubles.

Made of impact-resistant technical thermoplastic resin (ABC plastic), which allows you to maintain the size of the slot for a long time. You can buy it for 220-340 rubles.

Professional rotary miter box. The frame can be steel, aluminum or plastic. A saw is included in the kit. Costs from 3500 rubles. up to 6700 rub.

Is it possible and how to do it yourself?

You can postpone a trip to a retail outlet to buy a device if you have the following on hand:

3 boards 30-50 cm long. One of them is 15-20 cm wide (base), two for making sides 30-50 mm each (a high side makes it difficult to work with a saw);
furniture screws with hexagon heads;
glue;
cutting tools for woodworking (saw, hacksaw);
clamps - these can be a vice or clamps;
a set of hexagonal furniture keys (confirmations);
electric drill or screwdriver with a set of drills;
ruler;
protractor;
corner;
construction pencil (marker);
sandpaper P120.

From the given set of materials and tools, it is not difficult to make a simple device for adjusting the ends of the baguette when connecting them in the corners with your own hands.

The step-by-step action plan is as follows:

the bottom of the base and sides are sanded with sandpaper;
the base is attached in a vice or clamp to the workbench;
a side board is applied to the side of the base (covers the side edge);
using measuring instruments, the angle formed by two boards is checked - it should be 90 o;
in 3-4 places the side strip and the base are drilled with a screwdriver (the drill should be 1-2 mm thinner than the self-tapping screws);
PVA glue is applied to the edge of the base (any type of glue for wooden products can be used);
the side is screwed to the base with furniture screws;
a similar operation is carried out on the other side of the miter box;
Using a ruler, protractor and pencil, marks are made for the slots. There should be 3 of them on each side. One pair for cutting parts at a right angle, the other two pairs at an angle of 45 o, for the left and right baguette. The location of the grooves can be arbitrary, but it is more convenient to work if there is a groove in the middle of the device for an angle of 90 o, and on the sides at an equal distance for angles of 45 o;
You need to make cuts with a saw all the way to the base.

Usage homemade device will save the family budget with good quality corner cutting.

There is nothing complicated in the instructions on how to cut a ceiling plinth using a miter box.

1. The plinth is placed in the miter box with its face up, so that the plane in contact with the ceiling lies on the base, and the second is pressed against the side of the device. In this case, the bar should protrude 1-2 cm beyond the cutting line, which is clearly visible in the photo.

2. The fillet is pressed forcefully against the device, and a cutting tool (saw, hacksaw) is inserted into the slot. By the way, in the second photo the location of the plinth is more convenient for left-handed people. For those who are used to sawing with their right hand, you just need to switch to the other side or turn the miter box with the plinth 180 o.

3. The end is cut.

4. The second plinth is cut in a mirror image.

5. The cut areas are sanded with fine paper using a cutting tool with a tooth. Naturally, after the knife the grinding operation is not carried out.

How to properly cut the ends of the fillets for the internal and external corners can be seen in the photo.

Is there a difference in technology for floor and ceiling plinths?

At first glance, there is no difference in cutting corners for ceiling and floor plinths. Indeed, there are none if we are only talking about how to make a corner with a miter box - the sawing technology is the same.

Otherwise, there are and they concern methods for determining the length of scraps for joining in corners. So, at the top, when cutting the end, the upper part of the bar is shortened, at the bottom, on the contrary, the lower part. When joining the plinth at the outer corner, the ceiling plinth increases in size at the top, and the floor plinth at the base.

Let's supplement the instructions on how to use a miter box with several simple rules, the implementation of which allows you to correctly cut the corner at the baseboard.

When starting work, you should not panic if after the first cuts the ends do not fit perfectly. You need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to adjust the first strips of the plinth more than once.
Beginners often get confused about the sizes of corner strips. To prevent this from happening, the measurement is done as follows: the length of the fillet for the internal corner starts directly from the adjacent wall, for the external corner - from the edge of the corner plus the width of the baseboard, since the upper corner will protrude into the room.
Before placing fillets on glue, even if you are absolutely sure of the correct cut, you need to check how accurate the joint is. To do this, attach the touching ends to each other directly in the corner.
Builders have not yet learned how to make an angle exactly 90 o. Therefore, there will always be small gaps. They can be sealed with gypsum putty or sealant.
If the walls are not blocked (they stand vertically), the moldings can be adjusted at the bottom, even if the angle is acute or obtuse.

Conclusion

Using a miter box to cut the outer and inner corners of baguette panels allows you to obtain precise cuts at the ends, which are impossible to do by eye. The use of technologies without equipment requires sealing the baseboard joints with sealant.

There is a wide selection of tool models on sale, varying in cost, size, operating principles and material from which they are made. This means that the home master will always be able to choose the most effective miter box for his work. The simplicity of the design allows people, even without prior experience in construction, to effectively use the device for cutting out the required angles on parts used during repair work.

A miter box is a tool for cutting workpieces at a certain angle. These blanks can be made of wood and plastic. Most often it is used for cutting door frames, baseboards, and wooden blocks.
You won’t be able to manually cut a block at an angle of 45 degrees, which is why such a tool was invented - a miter box.

They come in different widths and lengths, depending on the size of the workpiece.
For example, the photo below is the most common one.

One of the inexpensive models, it can be used to cut workpieces measuring 65mm in width and 35mm in height. If the workpiece is higher, then it will no longer be possible to insert the saw into the grooves.
It is possible to cut at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.
This is suitable for small thin bars and narrow trims. The kit includes a simple saw with a small, non-hardened tooth.
This option is quite suitable for infrequent household work; the plastic is quite flimsy.
Approximate price for 2013 – 120 rub.

If you use a miter box constantly, then take better option more expensive, but better quality.

The miter box itself is already noticeably wider; you can cut workpieces 100mm wide and 52mm high. Unlike the first option, it is possible to cut not only at an angle, but also at an angle,

those. It will be possible to make an angle in a different plane. The plastic is much thicker, making the body more rigid and reliable. For convenience, it can be attached to the table with bolts or screws. There are two holes for this.
There are markings on the body for convenience.
The kit includes a saw with a hardened tooth, a powerful rubberized handle that fits perfectly in the hand. To prevent the canvas from bending, there is a stiffener on top of it.
Estimated cost 350 rub.

Another option. With eccentric clamps, which allow you to fasten workpieces of any shape, not just rectangular, even, but even round.

There are angles of 22.5 degrees, 45 and 90, and you can also cut at an angle.
Width 110mm, height 75mm – for quite serious workpieces.
Made of thick plastic, can be mounted on a workbench.
The saw is not included, you will have to buy it separately, it costs 150 rubles.
The miter box itself is 300 rubles.