Laying water supply pipes in a private house. Autonomous water supply for a country house Water for construction from the river

This article will look at water supply country house. We'll stop at various types country house water supply systems. Let's compare autonomous water supply at home and centralized water supply. Here are the pros and cons of water supply to a country house from a well (drilling a well), a well and water intake from open sources. Also in each section the necessary equipment for water supply will be listed.

Water supply issue for a private home

There are two ways to solve the issue of the water supply system of a private home:

Centralized water supply.

1. Autonomous (individual) water supply:

• well (sand, artesian);

  water intake from open water sources (river, lake).

Centralized water supply at home

Connecting to a central water supply network is one of the most convenient ways to solve the issue of water supply for a country house.

To do this you need:

• obtain permission to connect your home to the central water supply from the organization at your place of residence, which is responsible for the maintenance and operation of central water supply systems;

• in the same department you will also be given technical conditions for connecting the water supply branch going to your house.

Note: in the technical specifications, the location will be determined and a diagram will be drawn for connecting the water supply outlet to your home, the required depth to which the water supply outlet should be buried will also be indicated, the water pressure that is guaranteed by the water supply system and other conditions will be indicated with an estimated cost estimate for laying the water supply system.

What are the advantages of this method of water supply to a private home:

• when choosing this method, there is no need to drill a well or install a well on the house site;

• maintenance of the water supply system (water quality, condition of pipes, water pressure) will be entirely the responsibility of UVKH or Vodokanal;

• unlimited water consumption;

• If there is a power outage in your area, the water in the tap will not stop flowing, and the construction of storage tanks or the installation of a hydraulic accumulator is also not required.

But this method of water supply also has disadvantages:

• even if your water supply outlet is made of PVC pipes or stainless steel, then all the same, the water will contain rust, which is in the pipes of the central water supply;

• Basically, water disinfection at central water intake stations occurs using chlorine, which means that chlorine will be present in the water entering your home, which significantly reduces the quality of the water;

• Also, for many reasons (an accident in any section of the water supply system, routine maintenance, etc.), water may temporarily stop flowing into your home, which creates a certain discomfort. Unfortunately, cases of water pipe breaks are not a rare occurrence, since in many regions water pipes have been in operation for quite a long time and due to poor funding major renovation sections of the central water supply, is not carried out regularly or is not carried out at all;

• You are required to pay a monthly fee for water use (payment is made according to the water consumption control meter).

Table 1. Estimated cost connection to the centralized water supply system

Note: prices for each region may be different, and the cost of installing a water supply system will depend on the amount of work performed.

But it is not always possible to connect to a central water supply in the private sector. In this case, do not be upset - there is a second method of supplying water to a private home, which you can resort to in this case.

Autonomous water supply at home

There are several options for installing an autonomous water supply for a private home:

• digging a well,

• drilling of the wells,

• water intake from surface water sources.

Note: If the water level in a well or well “on sand” in the summer period decreases and the water reserves are not enough to water garden plants, and there is no open reservoir nearby, then you can install water tanks in the yard, which can be delivered under a special agreement equipment intended for transporting water.

Well

Well in a private house

To install a well on your land plot, you do not need to obtain a special permit (ground: “Law on Subsoil”, Article 19); you only need to obtain state registration of it (ground: “State registration of ownership of the real estate object being created”, Article 25).

Wooden wells

The shafts of such wells are made mainly from logs with a diameter of 12 to 18 cm, and the logs must be from wood species that have a dense trunk structure and are resistant to a humid environment - this is oak, larch, and pine.

Wells made of small-piece materials

The shafts of such wells are made of burnt red bricks, concrete blocks, and stones. The construction of wells from such materials is a labor-intensive process, and since the well shaft cannot be made from small-piece materials using a lowering method, such as from reinforced concrete rings, such wells are made mainly in shallow water deposits - up to 3 meters.

Wells made of reinforced concrete rings

Constructing a well shaft from reinforced concrete rings is the most effective and common way to construct wells. You can buy reinforced concrete rings or cast them yourself. This method of constructing a well has a number of advantages over other methods of constructing wells - a long service life of the rings (more than 50 years), simplicity and reliability of the device, and also the depth of such wells can reach up to 20 m.

Advantages of wells as a water supply option for a private home:

• there is no need to prepare documents to install a well on your land plot;

• the service life of the well is at least 50 years;

• it is convenient to clean and disinfect the well due to the relatively large diameter of the rings from 90 cm to 120 cm (for wells, for example, the shaft diameter ranges from 78 to 225 mm);

• no monthly fees required for water use;

• the cost of installing a well is lower than the cost of installing a well;

• The water from the well enters the house clean - no rust, no chlorine taste (unlike the central water supply system).

But wells also have disadvantages.:

• due to the relatively shallow depth of up to 15 m (for wells up to 135 m), surface water can enter the well shaft, which reduces the quality of water;

• digging wells is done manually, which requires a lot of physical effort;

• the well must be located at a distance of at least 50 meters from possible sources of pollution (manure storage facilities, sewers, etc.), since wastewater entering the well can make the water unsuitable for drinking or cooking;

• the well must be cleaned at least twice a year;

• interseasonal fluctuations in the water level in the well;

• it is necessary to have a reservoir for storing water or a hydraulic accumulator in case of a lack of electricity or other reasons that make it impossible to use water from the well for a certain period of time.

Cost of constructing a well

Table 2. Cost of constructing a well

The cost of constructing a well depends on the materials you choose and whether you will dig the well yourself or hire a team of workers.

Note: You can find out detailed information about the structure of the well from the article

Well drilling

Wells can be divided into two kinds:

Sand well diagram

Sand well up to 40 m deep

Choosing a well for your site to supply water to your home

When to choose a well “for sand”

If you only need a supply of water for watering plants in the garden, for cooking, and you do not intend to further add a shower, bathtub or pool in the house, then a well “for sand” is quite suitable for you. The water supply in such a well will average 300-500 liters.

When to choose an artesian well

If the house has a bath (shower), a dishwasher and more than three people live in the house, then in this case, at peak water consumption can be up to 2 m3 per hour - in such cases it is best to make an artesian well.

Table 3. Well comparison

Note: a well “on sand” is cheaper due to the shallowest drilling depth in relation to an artesian well and does not require the installation of special equipment for lifting water; it is enough to install a pump in the well that will ensure lifting water from a depth of up to 20 meters.

In addition to drilling, to the cost of installing an artesian well, it is necessary to add the cost of equipment for water supply to a country house from a well:

• caisson (for Ukraine - from 3,500 UAH ($421.5); for the Russian Federation - (from 14,000 rubles/390 $));

Caisson

• hydraulic accumulator;

Table 4. Brief list of hydraulic accumulators, their characteristics and cost

• pump (the price of the pump depends on its technical characteristics- for Ukraine from 450 UAH ($55) to 8750 UAH ($1055); for the Russian Federation - from 1800 rub. ($50) up to 35,000 rub. ($970)).

You should not buy a pump for a well in advance; after drilling a well is completed, you will be provided with a passport with the characteristics of the well, and based on these characteristics you will be able to purchase a pump that will have optimal technical characteristics for high-quality and uninterrupted work in lifting and supplying water from the well to house.

Water intake from open sources (river, lake)

If you intend to use water from open water sources for drinking and cooking, then water supply at a water intake requires a large amount of work to create sanitary protection zones at the water intake site (“Sanitary protection zones for water supply sources and drinking water pipelines” SanPiN 2.1.4.027-95 )

For example, it is necessary to establish the boundary of the first zone of the sanitary protection zone (SZZ) on the river at the place of water intake:

• upstream, the distance from the sampling point to the boundary of the ZSO belt should be at least 200 m and 100 m downstream;

• the depth at the water intake site must be at least 2.5 meters.

Diagram of water intake from an open water source

A- water intake, B- pumping station for supplying water to the water supply system.

1-pump, 2-water pipes, 3-trench, 4-walls of the water inlet, 5-suction compartment, 6-water inlet, 7-windows with gratings for the flow of water into the water inlet, 8-platform with a protective cap, 9-metal retractable grids

Based on what you saw in the diagram, you can already imagine the amount of work that will have to be faced when installing such a water supply system. The cost of installing a water intake and water supply system will be approximately equal to the cost of installing an artillery well (Ukraine - approximately more than 20,000 UAH ($2,400); Russian Federation -80,000 rubles ($2,300)), but the quality of the water will be lower than in a well.

So, basically, the majority of owners of private houses, if they use water from open water sources, do so only for technical purposes or for watering plants on their land.

To collect water from a reservoir for watering plants you will need:

• pump of the “Baby” or “Rucheek” type (another pump of the same type is also possible);

• hose for supplying water from the pump to the storage container (barrel, tank);

• You can also make a small deck extending into the water, for the convenience of immersing the pump in a deeper area of ​​the reservoir.

Note: To prevent the pump from sinking to the very bottom and from getting silt or sand into it during operation, the pump can be installed on a limit bar made of unsinkable material.

Local water intake plan

Calculation of the cost of supplying water for watering gardening plants from an open water source:

• pump from 500 UAH ($60.2) / from 2000 rubles ($55);

• watering hose from 5 UAH per 1 linear meter. ($0.6)/ from 20 rubles per 1 m ($0.56);

• cable (or chain) from 16.5 UAH per 1 running meter ($2) / from 65 rubles per 1 m ($1.8);

• containers for storing water (prices are negotiable).

The article discusses water supply options for a private home; all you have to do is make your choice which option is right for you, based on the data provided and the possibilities of using one of the water supply options in the region of your residence.

Please note: Prices are valid for 2009.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

Tee and manifold circuits for water distribution in the house

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

• "Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for distributing water supply in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
• Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

• pumping unit for a well or borehole,
• nipple (adapter),
• preventing water backflow check valve,
• pipeline,
• filter equipment (one or several different filters depending on water quality),
• shut-off valves,
• hydraulic accumulator,
• five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pressure switch, pipes).

Elements of the water supply system of a country house with a well

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

• for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
• for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
• in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Conducting water supply to a house from a well with a caisson

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

• Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
• Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You just need to take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors when setting the pressure switch.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and a dry-running relay, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

• preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about main water filters in a private house),
• fine cleaning,
• reduction in iron content,
• water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

• Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
• A deep cleaning filter is connected;
• Next comes a tee, from which the distribution of water supply pipes in a private house is divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which water will go to a boiler or other water heater for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing water supply into a private house with your own hands, the correctly selected pipe diameter will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

• for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
• for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
• For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

• 25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
• 32 mm for 50 l,
• 38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes from various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

If you decide to go with polypropylene, it will be useful for you to know how to weld polypropylene pipes.

Read more about the difference between collector and tee water supply wiring schemes here.

Since you will need coarse water filters, we advise you to familiarize yourself with their types.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

• Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
• Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. Bypass internal corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and an external one of 15 mm.
• If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
• The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

• Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
• All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
• Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
• A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.

Source: okanalizacii.ru

Features of water supply pipe routing for a private home

Water supply and sewerage are engineering systems, the installation of which is mandatory in any private home, since their presence ensures the creation of a minimum level of comfort: the ability to take a shower, wash dishes or food, and cook dinner.

At the design stage, it is important not only to correctly calculate and select pumping equipment, but also to correctly plan the connection of the source and the distribution of water supply throughout the house. The installation of water supply pipes and the installation of all necessary equipment must be carried out immediately after the construction of the house. Otherwise, installation will take a significant amount of time and money.

Approximate water supply schemes for a cottage.

Connecting the water supply

First of all, when designing a system, it is necessary to determine the source of water supply. There are three options:

If there is a well on your plot of land, you can install the water supply yourself. However, this method of water intake has several disadvantages:

1. Water intake must be continuous, otherwise the well will flood.
2. It is necessary to install a multi-level purification system, since usually the water quality does not meet the standards.
3. The resource of this source is limited, so this method is only suitable for a small house.
4. Regular cleaning and disinfection of the well is necessary.

In this case, a surface pump (if the well is a few meters from the house) or a submersible pump can be used to supply water. Typically, a well is used only in cases of low water consumption; in most cases, other sources are preferable.

The most popular way to supply water to a private home is to draw water from an artesian well. The installation cost is relatively high, but the reliability of the system and high water quality compensate for this disadvantage.

A shallow well for a small house can be drilled manually.

Connecting to the main network is the easiest way to supply water, but it is rare. To introduce water into the site, you only need to obtain permission (with recommendations for laying the pipeline) and connect the pipes.

Pipe layout: collector or series

Regardless of which source of water supply has been selected, the optimal piping scheme for the facility is selected: sequential or collector piping of the water supply system. When designing a network, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

• the number of people living in the house;
• frequency of stay in the house;
• intensity of water use.

Tee (or sequential) pipe distribution from a heater, main or riser takes place by connecting plumbing equipment one after another. Thus, the installation of the system requires a minimum amount of materials and time, however, this connection method has two significant drawbacks:

1. Uneven pressure in the system when used simultaneously by several users. That is, for example, when you turn on the water in the bathroom or kitchen, normal water pressure will only be in the tap located closer to the source.
2. To repair an individual element of the system, it is necessary to completely shut off the water supply to the building.

An example of a series connection of pipes.

With a collector (or parallel) connection, pipes are supplied to the intake points directly from the distribution manifold (individual distributors are provided for hot and cold water). Collector wiring allows all users to constantly receive stable water pressure, regardless of the number of simultaneously turned on plumbing fixtures. The main disadvantage of this method is the large number of pipes, which are difficult and expensive to hide.

Manifold piping on the floor.

In recent years, combined distribution of water supply pipes has become increasingly popular, in which short lines are installed in series and later collected into a collector. This method is a budget alternative to parallel connection of pipes. After all, it requires significantly less material for installation, and in the event of a breakdown, it is enough to turn off the water supply to just one short branch.

Hidden and open water supply system

The plumbing can be installed in an open or closed manner. At first glance, the second option is more preferable for the following reasons:

• saving usable space;
• neat appearance, since all communications are covered with plasterboard or hidden in the wall.

The main thing when laying out the water supply using this method is to seal all joints as carefully as possible (or better yet, to completely hide only entire sections of the pipeline) and leave space between the wall and the pipe to facilitate repair work.

Hidden installation of water supply and sewerage.

Main disadvantages hidden wiring: the inability to instantly detect a leak and more complex and expensive repairs, since there is a need for opening (and later re-installation) facing material. The best way to avoid this is to install special doors at the locations of the shut-off valves.

Unlike hidden wiring, which is installed before finishing work, open installation takes place after tiling or painting of walls has been completed. It will look less attractive, but in case of repair or rearrangement of plumbing equipment, all work can be done as quickly and simply as possible.

Open pipe laying.
Combined laying method.

Selection of pipes for the water supply system

The water supply system in a private house or country house can be carried out using pipes made of various materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages:

1. Copper. Best material for water supply system pipes in all respects: not subject to corrosion, not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, cannot be damaged by microorganisms, does not expand or contract due to changes in temperature and pressure. The only drawback is the high price, so installing copper water pipes is used extremely rarely.

Copper pipes.

1. Metal-plastic. Aluminum pipes, protected on both sides by plastic, are an excellent alternative to copper pipes. They are not subject to corrosion and ultraviolet radiation, and bend well. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the fear of high temperatures (over 95 degrees). Therefore, if you plan to install metal-plastic pipes, find out in advance about the temperature of the supplied water (if you are connecting to the main water supply) and monitor the correct operation of the boiler. Laying out metal-plastic pipes is possible with your own hands. The main thing is to connect all joints as tightly as possible. During operation, it is important to regularly check the quality of threaded connections and, if necessary, tighten them.

1. Steel. The classic version, used since the times of the USSR. Advantages of the material: strength and durability, disadvantages: the rapid appearance of rust and the complexity of installation due to the need to cut threads in all joints of elements or welding work.

1. Polyethylene. Polyethylene pipes are excellent for distributing hot and cold water, as they are resistant to temperature changes and have good ductility, which greatly facilitates installation. Branches from this material are assembled by welding the elements, but if you choose cross-linked polyethylene, installation is carried out using connecting fittings.

1. PVC. This material is capable of undergoing a chemical reaction and is therefore not recommended for home plumbing.

1. Polypropylene. Wiring with polypropylene - a budget option for laying water supply in the house. Systems from polypropylene pipes durable, not afraid of corrosion and easy to install using welding machine, which is why they are so common nowadays.

When selecting pipes, do not forget which installation method (sequential or collector) you have chosen, since the cost of the system largely depends on this. Pipes with the best price/quality ratio are polypropylene; when purchasing them, keep in mind that for laying hot water supply you must choose reinforced elements.

Polypropylene pipes and connecting elements.

Selection of pipeline sections

Before purchasing material, select the diameter of the pipeline in all sections of the system. If it is too small, the flow rate will be high, which will lead to loud noise; if it is large, you will spend more money on the purchase, and the pipes will be more difficult to hide. The optimal speed of water movement in the system is 2 m/s.

With the tee installation method, the diameter depends on the number of plumbing fixtures connected in series and is calculated individually for each branch. With a parallel connection, it is enough to know the length of the section:

• if the section is less than 10 meters long, the internal diameter of the pipeline should be from 16 mm to 20 mm.
• up to 30 meters – 25 mm.
• more than 30 meters – 32 mm.

With a series connection, the main parameter for calculation is the pipe capacity. For example, one tap flows on average 5-6 liters of water per minute. When calculating, sum up the throughput of the plumbing equipment that can be turned on at the same time, and depending on this, select the diameter. A pipeline with a cross-section of 25 mm is capable of passing 30 liters per minute, 32 mm - 50 l/min, 38 mm - 75 l/min.

Features of the water supply system

Any wiring diagram for a water supply system includes the following elements:

1. Source of water (well, borehole or mains).
2. The pump or pumping station that supplies water to the system (electrical or mechanical).
3. A hydraulic accumulator that provides water accumulation and creates the necessary pressure.
4. External and internal pipes through which water moves around the site and inside the house.
5. Shut-off valves and plumbing equipment for regulating and supplying fluid flow.

For hot water supply, it is also necessary to include a heating element - a boiler - in the system. The most economical option is a gas double-circuit boiler, which also provides heat to the building in winter. if gas supply is not possible, installing an electric storage boiler will be sufficient for a bathhouse, cottage or small private house.

Connection diagram for a double-circuit boiler.

Often, to save money at the stage of installing a bathhouse or cottage for use only in the warm season, a summer water supply is arranged, in which the pipes along the street are located on the surface of the ground. The main disadvantage of this method is the need to drain water and remove pipes before the onset of cold weather. This option is only good as a temporary solution, for example, when it is possible to connect to the highway, but time is needed to approve permitting documents.

For summer water supply, rubber hoses can be used.

Do-it-yourself plumbing installation

Before installing a water supply system yourself, read the following rules and tips:

1. Reduce the number of pipe passes through building envelopes to a minimum.
2. Leave free space (at least 2 centimeters) between walls and pipes to facilitate repair work.
3. Attach horizontal sections of the pipeline to the wall every 1-1.5 meters.
4. Be sure to install coarse filters in front of the connection points of the washing machine and dishwasher, otherwise the devices will quickly fail.
5. The pipeline leading to the shower stall must be equipped with a ball valve.
6. If you plan to install water supply for a small house, it is advisable to connect the kitchen and bathroom in parallel. Otherwise, if someone starts washing dishes with cold water, the shower taker will get scalded by the excessively hot water.
7. An interesting option is the horizontal distribution of water pipes in the basement with subsequent rise to the places where plumbing equipment is connected. In this case, most of the communications will be hidden without additional work. This option is only suitable for one-story houses. In taller buildings, it is possible to lay some of the pipes along the ceiling.

The installation procedure depends on the type of material used. Let's look at the now popular pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene from the Rehau company, which can be installed not only by a master, but also by any owner of a residential premises who does not have special skills.

Rehau pipes.

The installation of pipes of the German brand Rehau begins with preparation necessary materials and tools: pipes and fittings, an expander with nozzles for different diameters, a press clamp, a cutting tool, a tape measure and a marker.

The system is assembled according to the following scheme:

1. Pipe cutting.
2. Layout of the system with fittings on the floor.
3. Connection using special sleeves.

Fixation occurs by expanding the ends of the connected elements and inserting a sleeve from them. The main thing is to strictly observe the horizontality of all elements; the slightest distortion will lead to a leaky joint.

Source: znatoktepla.ru

How to properly install plumbing in a country house?

It is difficult to call a cottage in which there is no water supply modern and comfortable for living. Walking with a bucket to a well or pump is something out of fairy tales or old grandmother's stories today. There must be running water in a private home. And you can do it yourself by organizing a water supply from the same well. The situation is even simpler when it is possible to connect to the village centralized network. In this case, it is enough to install only the internal part of the water supply system.

Water supply systems

Water supply country houses It happens:

In the first option, the water source is the water supply network common to the entire village. To connect a private home to it, you must contact the resource supply organization and obtain specifications for connection. The subsequent insertion into the centralized pipeline will be carried out by the installers of this company, and the distribution of the water supply through the residential building can be done independently.

Home water supply options

In the second option, water enters the house from a well, borehole or river. If such water intake is done on your own property, then you will not need to obtain permits or coordinate anything with government agencies. However, all issues of quality and compliance of the life-giving moisture entering the cottage fall on the shoulders of the home owner.

Plumbing system in a private house

The plumbing system of a private house consists of an external and an internal part. The first includes a street water supply from a water intake or village network and directly a well or well with a pump (if this is a decentralized autonomous option). The second includes the cold water and hot water pipelines located in the house, as well as filters, pumps, fittings and taps.

External part of the water supply system of a private house

How to develop a plumbing diagram

In order for everything to work out correctly in the end, before installing the water supply it is necessary to carefully work out the layout of its installation on the street and its wiring in the cottage. If this project is done correctly, it will avoid many problems when installation work and subsequent operation of the assembled water supply system.

Water supply scheme for a private house

When developing such a water supply scheme, the following is calculated:

• number of water supply points in the house;
• the need and number of collectors;
• pump power and water heater capacity;
• pipe sizes;
• characteristics of shut-off valves.

Plus, you select the option of pipe routing (collector or sequential) and the location of all elements of the water supply system in a private house. At first glance, it is easier to install the same electrical wiring in an apartment or a ventilation system. However, both have their own nuances. And even with the slightest mistakes, there will be many problems in all cases.

Features of pipe selection

Pipes for home water supply can be made of plastic, steel, copper or metal-plastic. Copper will cost the most. But pipelines made from it are not subject to corrosion and deformation during heating (cooling), and they are also not afraid of impurities in water and water hammer.

Easiest to install plastic options, however, high and low temperatures are strictly contraindicated for them. It is recommended to choose plastic for installation inside the house, and choose steel for the street. Steel pipes are more difficult to connect (welding is required). But they are more reliable, although they are susceptible to rust.

The internal diameter of the pipes is selected based on the estimated volume of water consumption by plumbing fixtures connected to a specific section of the water supply system. In this case, a tubular product with an internal cross-section of 25 mm is capable of flowing about 30 l/min, and with a cross-section of 32 mm – about 50 l/min. Typically, these two sizes are most often chosen for installing an in-house plumbing system. If you take pipes of a smaller diameter, they will make noise, since to increase their throughput you will have to increase the water pressure.

Types of pipes for water supply

To install an external section of the water supply system with your own hands, they are usually taken from a pipe with thermal insulation with a cross-section of 32 mm. This pipeline will lie in the ground, so special attention must be paid to its insulation. He shouldn't freeze in the winter.

Installation of water supply in a cottage in seven steps:

1. Marking pipe routing, as well as installation locations for equipment and plumbing.
2. Making holes in the walls for pipelines to be laid.
3. Connecting pipes using fittings or welding.
4. Connecting shut-off valves.
5. Installation of a water heater (boiler) and pumps with their connection to the assembled water supply system.
6. Installation of plumbing.
7. Starting the water and checking for leaks.

It is recommended to leave about 15–20 mm of empty space between the wall and the pipe. This will make it easier to repair the plumbing later if necessary. Also, each branch from the riser to the plumbing should have its own shut-off valve. This way, in the event of an emergency, you won’t have to turn off all the water in a private house, leaving household members completely without it for several hours or even a couple of days.

Connecting the pumping station

The pump or pumping station is installed in a caisson above the well, in the basement or in an outbuilding next to the well. This equipment is sensitive to severe frosts, so it should be located in an insulated, or even better, heated place.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the water inside it and nearby pipes will simply freeze.
It is also possible to install a submersible pump directly into the well.

However, pressure switches and other automation will still require some kind of insulated space in the borehole head or room in the house for them to work correctly.

Schematic diagram of connection pumping station

Hydraulic accumulator

To ensure that the pressure in the cottage’s autonomous water supply system is always constant, a hydraulic accumulator is included with the pump. It not only allows you to control the pressure in the taps, but also reduces wear on pumping equipment. The latter turns on less often. This only happens to fill the accumulator tank, and not every time you open the faucet valve in the kitchen.

If you don’t want to install a hydraulic accumulator, then you can get by with a regular storage tank of 0.5–1 cubic meter installed in the attic. This scheme allows you to do without complex and expensive equipment. At the same time, the pressure in the taps remains quite stable and constant.

Connection diagram for hydraulic accumulator

Water purification

If the quality of the water leaves much to be desired, then the water supply will have to be supplemented with a water purification system. At a minimum, you need a coarse filter. It will remove grains of sand and other large suspended particles from the water flow.

Additional filters are installed after the water has been analyzed for the chemical composition of the impurities present in it. If the content of iron or calcium is high, some treatment devices will be needed, and with increased hardness, others will be needed.

Scheme of water purification in a private house

How not to break the law

To connect to a centralized water supply, you will have to prepare a whole bunch of documents and obtain technical conditions for connection. Without these pieces of paper you cannot cut into a pipe without permission. This will be discovered sooner or later and considerable fines will follow for arbitrariness and water consumption. Here, all connection issues should be resolved exclusively through the organization that controls the water utility.

Types of water sources for a private home

With a well and a borehole, the situation is radically different. There is no need to collect permit papers here. You can organize such a water intake on your site at any time. Moreover, it is not even necessary to invite specialists to dig a well. If you know exactly at what depth the water lies, then getting to it with your own hands if you have the skills to handle a shovel and follow simple rules will not be difficult.

Connection diagram for water supply to a private house with artesian water

The only limitation on the well is if it is made deep artesian. In this case, there is no way without permission. Such water withdrawal requires approval from government agencies. This sewerage installation in a private house can be done in any way without control from the authorities. This will not work with an artesian well.

Conclusion

Almost any owner can handle the installation of water supply in his home. Problems may arise only with connection to the village's water mains, located on the street. Permissions are required here, you will have to go through the authorities. Otherwise, there shouldn’t be any particular difficulties with laying pipes around the cottage and drilling a well.

Watch also the video on how to avoid mistakes when installing water pipes in the house:

Source: sdelat-dom.ru

How to lay water pipes in a country house and in a private house correctly: Step-by-step instructions + Video

Plumbing in any home, including water is needed for almost everything: for drinking and home maintenance, for the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, for watering plants and much more.

Even in the deepest outback, the level of comfort of the most unpretentious village hut will increase enormously if it has running water.

We won’t say that this is a piece of cake, especially if the house has been inhabited for a long time and is not at the planning stage. However, you can do a lot of the work yourself, without the help of specialists or hired workers. Water for supply to a private house can be taken from a well, from a well, from a nearby reservoir, or by connecting to a centralized system.

Plumbing diagram

There is no need to neglect such an important thing as the diagram of the future water supply system. There is no need to look for excuses: just run the pipe into the house, into the bathroom and into the kitchen. Once you have definitely decided for yourself that water in the house is absolutely necessary, draw a detailed diagram of its installation.

It must be understandable, taking into account all additional components: boiler, sediment, filters, collectors, points of consumption.

All this needs to be noted on your plan, and, of course, the path of the pipe through the structure. The distances marked on the drawing will help you calculate in advance the number of pipes required for work.

Laying water supply in a house can be done in various ways:

• Using a manifold connection;
• Serial connection of each point of consumption.

Sequential

This type of connection is suitable for a very small house with low water consumption and a small number of residents (1-2 people). For large cottages with a large number of permanent residents, using this method is unlikely to be a good idea.

Its essence is that near each point of consumption in the home a tee with an outlet is installed, which is connected to the main pipeline running through the entire house. If you use water at different points at the same time, the pressure at the most distant one will drop greatly, making use difficult.

Collector

This type of connection is as follows: a separate pipe is laid from a common collector to each point of consumption. Thanks to this, at each point of water consumption its pressure will be constant and sufficient. Some pressure losses within the system will occur, but they are not fundamental, since they are associated with the distance of the consumer from the pumping station.

But convenience and comfort are worth it, aren’t they? Below we will talk about the collector method.

The water supply scheme for a country house necessarily contains the following components:

• Water intake point.
• Pumping station. A pipe located in the ground connects the water intake to the pump. It is equipped with a check valve that prevents water from returning back.
• Hydraulic accumulator.
• It is advisable to install a tee with a tap after the hydraulic accumulator: one of its pipes will be allocated for domestic needs, the second will be used for technical needs (gardening, gardening).
• The home pipe (household) must be connected to a special system where the water will be purified and disinfected.
• Next, a tee is installed, with the help of which the water will be divided into hot and cold.
• The hot water pipe is connected to a powerful water heater (do not forget about insulating the pipes).
• The cold pipe is connected to a similar collector. Shut-off valves are installed on each line leading to the point of consumption.
• From the boiler, a “hot” pipe with water is connected to the corresponding collector, and from it the pipes go throughout the home.

The water supply system may include some other additional components, but the connection sequence and its diagram itself are not subject to change.

Water pipes in a private house

If we talk about the nature of the work required to install a water supply system in a house, the most “dirty” and difficult of them will be making the necessary holes on the floor and in the walls of the building.

The remaining activities, including cutting pipes and their reliable connection, connecting to the collector and consumers, arranging a pump and filter systems, despite the volume and significant time costs, will not require a colossal application of physical strength.

Water pipes for the home: choice of material

First of all, at the very beginning, you will have to decide on the pipes: Which ones, from what material, are suitable in a particular case?

Copper

They are the most expensive and considered the best.

They are not afraid of UV rays (ultraviolet radiation), corrosion, do not succumb to microorganisms, withstand increased pressure, do not react to sudden changes in the temperature of the environment, quickly give off heat, and do not deteriorate from harmful impurities contained in water.

We can say that they embodied all the best that is required from this type of material.

That's just the price...

She's really tall.

Metal-plastic

Made of aluminum, inside and outside, on both sides, protected with dense polyethylene.

The exceptionally smooth surface of the plastic prevents the accumulation of deposits and prevents rust from appearing.

The plastic layer on the outside protects against condensation and ultraviolet radiation. Such pipes have disadvantages. They can be deformed at temperatures above 95 °, they can rupture due to water freezing in them, products with fittings are prohibited from bending.

Steel

A reliable, time-tested option.

Steel pipes are known for their strength, reliability, durability, but...

Unfortunately, without proper care, they are susceptible to rust.

There will be additional troubles with them.

For installation of water supply in frame house the pipes will have to be welded, or each individual element will have to be threaded for subsequent connection.

Polypropylene

Perhaps, they have recently been very actively used for arranging plumbing in the house.

This popularity is explained by their remarkable performance characteristics.

They can last up to 50 years, are quite easy to install, their joints do not need frequent revision, so you can hide them under a layer of plaster.

Let’s not forget about the minus, if you can call it that: to weld pipes you will need a special electric welding unit.

Plumbing in the house: choosing the diameter of the pipes

For the quality functioning of the water supply system, not only the material of the pipes is important, but also their diameter. The fact is that too small can cause turbulence in the flow, causing the contents to move through the pipes with loud noise. Simply put, the water pipe is humming.

Lime deposits will accumulate on its inner walls. The maximum speed of water flow in the pipe should be no more than 2 m/s. In accordance with this, the diameter of the pipes is determined.

To determine its value, we make simple calculations according to the specified parameters. If there are many residents in the house, and there are few water points, situations may arise when they are all used at the same time. The consumption of all points must be added up, and the size of the collector will depend on this indicator.

Laying out water pipes

After completing the connection of pipes, you can begin laying them in the house. It is more convenient to start from the consumer. The pipe is connected to it using an adapter. A ball valve is mounted between it and the faucet hose (it is useful for shutting off the water if the need arises). Then the pipe goes in the direction of the collector.

It is important to follow these simple rules:

• If possible, it is better to prevent pipes from passing through walls and partitions. If this is not possible, then the pipe passing through the wall should be placed in a glass.
• To facilitate potential repair work, pipes should not be placed close to the walls, but at a distance of 2-2.5 cm.
• The crane is installed in such a way that there is a slight slope towards the crane.
• The pipes are attached to the walls with special clips, the distance between them is 1.5-2 meters. Particular attention is paid to corner joints.
• To bypass the inner corner, the pipe is mounted at a distance of 3-4 cm, the outer corner is 1.5 cm.
• If you need to connect polypropylene pipes at right angles, use tees of the required diameters - fittings.

When connecting a pipe to the main manifold, an indispensable shut-off valve is installed. It will allow you to disconnect the system from the consumer if necessary. This may be required, for example, for repairs.

Connecting the pumping station

Providing a private home with water is carried out using a pumping station. It pumps water from a well, well or other source. It is convenient to locate the pumping station in the basement of the house, in a warm technical room or in the basement. This placement will allow you to use it indoors even in severe frost, because the pumping station is protected from freezing. The street part of the water supply system in a frame house must be insulated.

A pipe is connected from the water intake to the pumping system, the tip of which is a brass fitting with a 32 mm adapter. A tee with a tap is connected to it, allowing you to turn off the water supply. Next, a check valve is installed. To rotate the pipe, use a special angle 90 °. Next, all elements will be connected using an “American” - quick connection.

Hydraulic accumulator

This device is a sealed tank consisting of two sections. In one part there is air under pressure, in the other there is water.

This unit is needed to ensure constant pressure in the water supply, as well as to turn the pump on and off if necessary.

The tank can have a different volume, from a minimum of 25 liters to half a ton, and is selected based on the needs of the residents.

The installation of a water supply system by a private owner does not necessarily require the installation of a hydraulic accumulator. It will be completely replaced by a sufficiently capacious tank for storing water.

Collector and boiler: device

After filtering, the water is divided into different streams. One goes to the cold water collector, the other to the water heater. Shut-off valves with a tap are an indispensable attribute installed in front of the collector, as well as on each pipe in it. The number and diameter of pipes depend on the number of water consumption points in the home.

Boiler connection diagram

But without hot water, the supply system would be incomplete. A safety valve, drain valve and expansion tank are mounted on the pipe leading to the heater. At the outlet of the heater, the pipe is also equipped with a drain valve. Next, it is connected to the “hot” collector, and from there it is routed to the required points.

At this point, the installation of water supply in a private house can be considered complete. Before starting work, you should check the system: its tightness and performance. If everything is in order, then you can begin operation.

In order for the water supply system to provide maximum comfort to residents, it is necessary to take into account many nuances and correctly calculate all operating parameters and engineering components. It is highly advisable to start development at the architectural design stage.

To bring plans to life and equip the water supply of a private house with your own hands must be, if not a professional, then a person who has delved into all the intricacies.

We will help you understand the principles of operation of an autonomous system, outline the design of various water intake sources and provide recommendations on the choice of equipment. Step-by-step instructions for arranging a water supply are supplemented with visual images and videos.

The water supply system is one of the most important elements in home improvement. The essence of its work is the automated supply of the required volume of water, for which the user now only needs to start the equipment and then simply periodically monitor it.

An autonomous network independent of the central water supply must be properly designed and calculated in order for the house to be fully provided with water according to the needs of the owners. The system must be organized so that water flows freely to all water intake points.

Image gallery

Construction of capture chambers when using a spring

The design of a protective structure over a spring differs little from the design of a well. Water can also enter them through the bottom or walls, which are equipped with filters. In rock formations, filtration is not required.

If there are suspended particles in the water, then the chamber is divided in half by a partition, one compartment is used for settling and cleaning from sediment, the other is for collecting water.

To release excess water at the highest flow rate of the source, an overflow pipe is provided in the wall of the chamber. A valve is installed at its end, which allows water to pass through, but prevents debris and rodents from entering the spring.

Automatic water supply equipment

Choosing a method for arranging and installing a water supply system for a country house begins with assessing the type of water intake structure, its depth and other characteristics.

The automated system includes:

• pump or ready-made pumping station;
• filtration system for water purification;
• storage and regulating capacity;
• external and internal pipeline;
• devices for automatic control.

When installing tanks and pumps, it is necessary to strictly follow the requirements of the equipment manufacturers.

Regulating and storage tanks for water

Containers for storing water are distinguished according to the principle of operation:

• Non-pressure non-pressurized tank. It is made mainly from polymer materials. Helps create pressure due to placement at the highest point of the system. The higher the storage tank is installed, the greater the water pressure in the system. Raising the container by every meter increases the pressure by 0.1 atmosphere.
• Hydropneumatic tank. Inside it is divided into two compartments by a membrane. It creates pressure thanks to compressed air in one compartment, which, through a rubber membrane, exerts pressure on the water in the adjacent compartment.

A non-pressure tank is installed in a lighted, ventilated room, the temperature of which does not drop to negative values. Trays are installed under the container to protect against small leaks. The tank is equipped with a removable lid and equipped with shut-off valves.

One of the operating characteristics of pumping equipment is the frequency of system activation per unit of time. This indicator is fundamental in choosing a hydraulic accumulator. For submersible pumps, the permissible interval between starts is longer than for surface pumps. They are supposed to turn on less often, which means the hydraulic tank should be larger.

To work in tandem with surface pumps, they are most often purchased membrane tanks capacity from 12 to 24 liters. If there are power outages in a populated area, it is recommended to install a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 250 liters or more so that a reserve supply of water can be pumped and stored for some time.

Hydraulic accumulators are placed in chambers underground, in basements, utility rooms, where the temperature does not drop below zero.

In a system with a storage tank without pressure, the water supply process is automated using a float valve and an on/off sensor

Purification of tap water from impurities

When choosing water-lifting equipment, take into account:

• Source flow rate. It should exceed the water consumption in the house.
• Type of water intake structure and depth of the aquifer. For pumping from sources up to 8 m deep, surface centrifugal pumps are used. They are placed in basements or separate rooms of private houses, in underground chambers or shaft wells. Water is pumped out from great depths using powerful submersible pumps.
• Required system pressure. The pressure of the pumping unit is determined by summing up the values ​​(in meters): the height of the rise from the (dynamic) water level in the well to the highest located plumbing fixture, the loss of pressure when reaching the highest point, the required pressure at this point.
• Estimated water consumption. Calculated based on the number of plumbing points and the number of residents. This indicator influences the choice of equipment performance.

When wondering how to supply water to a private house, any owner’s ultimate goal is to gain independence from centralized networks and other common water systems located outside the household by equipping an autonomous source.

But often, the installation of such a water intake is the only possible option for providing water to a household. One of the methods of installing an autonomous water supply source and supplying water from it to the house will be discussed below.

Autonomous methods of using water resources have priority in the design and practical implementation of water supply for a private home. When choosing the most optimal solution for arranging a water intake source, it is necessary to take into account the main condition - the presence of an aquifer on the site and its depth, as well as the purposes for which the extracted water will be used.

Therefore, the first and important step in installing a water source of any type will be. To do this, one should take into account the absence in the immediate vicinity of the planned source of trees, the roots of which will interfere with the work or will threaten the condition of the water intake in the future, power lines, own or neighboring outbuildings.

You should not install a water supply source closer than 40 m from household facilities containing waste. For example, cesspools, septic tanks, settling tanks. It is undesirable to be adjacent to industrial enterprises and landfills within a radius of 1 km

An equally important condition that influences the choice of the method of extraction and transportation of water, as well as the location of the source on the property, is the distance from the surface of the earth to the aquifers.

Instructions for constructing a well

The well is one of the most ancient water intake facilities, but has not lost its relevance to this day.

The presence of a filter is mandatory for the following types of well bottom:

• soft clay and is eroded, which is why the water in the bottom part of the well is cloudy;
• sandy- water slowly seeps into the mine;
• at the bottom of the well there is a floater, in the form of muddy streams of sand extremely saturated with groundwater.

There are many materials for constructing a bottom filter.

The most effective material for a bottom filter includes coarse quartz sand. Before placing it in a well, the sand must be thoroughly washed under running water or by periodic stirring, followed by settling and draining of water in which residual silt and clay contaminants remain suspended.

To achieve a greater effect, a three-layer, 30 cm each layer, filtration is arranged. Washed quartz sand serves as the first layer, river pebbles are laid as the second layer, and large stones are poured on top.

To protect against floaters, a bottom filter shield made of boards with holes 1 cm in diameter is installed at the bottom of the well. The shield is wrapped in geotextile, pressed to the bottom with a layer of stones and covered with a layer of small pebbles - 10-15 cm.

Step 5 – arrangement of the above-ground part

Further arrangement of the well consists of filling the gap between the walls of the shaft and the rings with crushed stone or just soil, as well as constructing a clay castle. This ensures that the well is protected from rainwater and other domestic wastewater.

To create a clay castle, wet clay is placed in a ditch around the well, up to 0.5 m deep and up to 0.4 m wide, which is then compacted well to remove voids.

The constructed waterproof castle can be lined with bricks in one row, tiled, or a concrete blind area can be poured, raising it a little higher above ground level.

The work is being completed by equipping the above-ground part of the well. Here everything depends on the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner, but in any case, the well must be protected from rain, snow and dirt. In addition to a regular or decorative roof, it is imperative to build a lid that directly covers the well opening itself, and better yet, with a lock.

Organization of water supply to the house

An ordinary well can also be used as a source of water in the permanent water supply system of a private home.

Therefore, if the old-fashioned method of lifting water from a well - in buckets, with its delivery to the house on a rocker - does not suit the owner of the household, and the water supply is used in the winter, then there is no need to rush into filling the well shaft. The reason is that you will need access to insert a water pipe into the well in its deepened part.

The supply of water from the well to the house is carried out according to the following algorithm.

Stage No. 1 – preparation of tools and materials

On initial stage it is necessary to decide on the method of automatically transporting water to the house, outbuildings or for irrigation, and also which one will be used for this - submersible or surface.

Depending on the choice of water supply method, it is recommended to put on paper a water supply plan, in which all the main equipment and materials used are detailed. The presented diagram will help you draw up a plan for installing a water supply system using a pumping station

The pump power is selected such that the water pressure in any section of the pipeline is within 1.5 atmospheres, and the performance exceeds the maximum water flow by 25%. In addition, the operation of the pump must be linked to the debit of the source, to prevent air from entering the unit after all the water from the well has been exhausted.

If the water level in the well does not exceed 7 - 10 m, then the optimal solution would be to equip a pumping station with a surface pump.

A mandatory element in the water supply scheme from a well is a hydraulic accumulator. This is a storage tank that also allows you to create the required pressure in the network

When choosing pipes, you should take into account that the modern method of laying water pipes involves the use of pipe products made of metal-plastic. The most popular are pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.

• fitting;
• tees;
• bends;
• adapters.

Compression fittings simplify the process of working with pipes. Their use does not require additional and expensive welding equipment.

Stage No. 2 - arrangement of a trench for pipes

The practical part of arranging the transportation of water to the house begins with digging a trench for laying water pipes.

When choosing the depth of laying communications, the following factors are taken into account:

• the need to install a cushion of sand and gravel mixture at least 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench;
• depth of soil freezing.

The degree of soil freezing in a particular area can be determined by specialists from the nearest construction organization.

For example, for the central part of Russia this figure ranges from 1.35 m to 2 m. This error is determined not only by the climatic conditions of the regions, but also by the type of soil

Stage No. 3 – connection to a water supply source

An important stage is the work on arranging the passage of the pipe through the wall of the well.

The mandatory conditions that must be met in this case are:

1. The hole for the pipe entry is equipped at the same level at which the water supply lines will be laid.
2. The input node should not be placed at the junction of the rings.

A hole is drilled in the concrete ring, usually for an inch cut.

To the drive from outside The well is connected to a HDPE pipe through a fitting. A fitting is installed on the inside of the drain to connect a vertical intake pipe to it. In our version with a pumping station or pipe to which a submersible pump is mounted

It is also recommended to implement the option of connecting a tee to the internal fitting, on which, in addition to the vertical intake pipe, you can install a drain valve on the horizontal outlet. This will be useful in the case when the house is not used for living in the winter, and the water from the system needs to be drained.

The hole in the concrete ring of the well, into which the through passage is installed, is carefully sealed with a special waterproofing mastic, which contains reinforcing fibers.

Wide rubber gaskets are placed on the same composition, applied to the internal and external walls of the well, on both sides, after which the drive is clamped with nuts and washers.

Stage No. 4 - installation of the pipeline

Having completed the excavation work and equipped the entrance to the well, you can backfill and compact the remaining gap between the walls of the shaft and the outer walls of the well. Waterproof it and proceed directly to the installation of the water supply system.

Work begins with preparing the intake pipe section. To calculate its length, the fact that water must be drawn from the middle part of the water level in the well is taken into account.

And in order to prevent large suspensions from penetrating into the pipes and pumping station, it would not be superfluous to install a filter on the intake pipe. Ready-made corrugated water intake pipes are available for sale, already equipped with a check valve.

Having equipped the inside of the well, you can begin laying water pipes in the prepared trench - from the well to the house. Here it should be borne in mind that a prudent owner will not skimp on additional materials, the use of which will be able to protect against more costly troubles in the future.

• mechanical protection of pipes;
• pipeline insulation;
• redundancy of communications.

To protect the pipe from soil pressure and other influences, you can use inexpensive technological polyethylene or corrugated pipes.

Even if the water pipes are laid below the ground freezing line, as insurance against abnormal surprises of nature, it would not be a bad idea to hide them under any insulation, for example, from polystyrene foam boards, the cost of which is not so high

Considering the relatively low cost of plastic pipes, in order to avoid having to carry out labor-intensive work of opening the entire trench, looking for a faulty area and repairing the main, it is recommended to lay a backup water pipe next to the main one.

Stage No. 5 – final work

The final stage of supplying water supply to a house from a well is the installation of a pumping station. It allows you to economically use the resource of such expensive equipment as a pump. Having used maximum power when pumping water into the pump, the pump begins to operate in economical mode, squeezing the required amount of liquid into the system.

For the pumping station, it is necessary to equip a closed utility room in which, even in frosty weather, the temperature will not drop below 5 degrees Celsius.

A check valve is installed at the inlet of the pump to protect the house from flooding from the main pipeline in the event of system malfunctions.

To monitor the pressure of the water supply and automatically, if necessary, turn it off and on, the pump is equipped with an electric contact pressure gauge.

The hydraulic accumulator is installed no lower than 1.5-2 m from the floor level, preferably in the attic, in order to ensure a gravity supply of water during a power outage.

Considering the expensive equipment used, it is advisable to entrust the installation and connection of the pumping station, without special skills, to professionals.

Do not ignore sections of the water supply system where they come to the surface, entrances to the basement of the house or an unheated basement. These areas are subject to enhanced thermal insulation or are equipped with electric heating.

The best, but somewhat labor-intensive, option is to bring a water pipe into the house under the foundation, through the basement, from the level of its depth in the trench

As insulation, a water pipe can be placed in a sleeve made from a sewer pipe with damping polyethylene foam insulation.

For the convenience of possible replacement of the pipe, in places where there are passages through the base or ceiling, it is recommended to insert it through a sleeve made of a larger diameter pipe.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video about the technology of laying rings when constructing a well:

Useful tips for supplying water supply from a well to a house, taking into account the use of water supply in winter:

The option of installing an autonomous source of water supply in your household, the instructions for which are given above, is the most accessible for implementation.

Following step-by-step advice on getting water from a well will help you avoid unwanted mistakes, the correction of which can result in high costs.

If you have had to arrange water supply on your site yourself, please share your experience with visitors to our site. Perhaps there are nuances that need to be paid attention to? Leave your comments in the communication block located under the article.

Depending on local conditions, the source of water may be:

• local water supply network;
• water from the river near the dacha;
• open reservoir of natural or artificial origin;
• well;
• well.

Let us describe each of these sources in more detail.

Water pipes

An operating stationary water supply is far from uncommon in already established dacha cooperatives and gardening partnerships. Yes, and the new elite ones summer cottages can often receive water from the city or village water supply network. The owners of such dachas can only connect to the laid pipes and enjoy all the benefits of a civilized water supply.

A permanently operating water supply makes it possible to do without storage tanks or additional pumps and thereby save a lot on electricity. Unfortunately, even in our time, in areas remote from large cities, the presence of such a water supply system is an unfulfilled desire. Therefore, you have to independently arrange the summer water supply at your dacha.

Water supply from the river

In places where the river is not poisoned by wastewater, industrial and domestic discharges and the environmental situation is favorable - river water can be used not only for watering plants, but also for cooking. For dirty water, there are modern filters and installations that can purify it until it is drinkable.

Installation of water supply from a spring or reservoir

Spring water is a source of vital energy. Such a water supply for a dacha is a real treasure. With a sufficiently large flow of water, the spring can become the source of a small man-made lake. Such water is equivalent to river water and can be used to meet dacha needs.

Well

It’s easiest to make a water supply system at your dacha from a well with your own hands - this is the most common option for water intake in villages. As a rule, it is dug by hand to a relatively shallow depth. The well is fed by upper groundwater (overwater), so its water regime depends on the amount of precipitation.

In arid areas, the depth can reach more than one and a half tens of meters, but today, under such circumstances, it is more economically profitable to drill and equip a water intake well. Water from a well is not always suitable for drinking and then it should also be filtered, boiled, or disinfected by other methods.

In places remote from civilization, in ecologically safe areas, the water in wells is particularly clean and is comparable in quality to spring water. In such places, well water can be safely drunk and used in cooking without further purification.

Well

This is the only possible source of water supply in places with poor environmental conditions and in arid areas. The drilling rig is capable of reaching the deepest aquifer located in the artesian calcareous soil horizon. Often, artesian wells provide such water pressure that there is no need for an additional booster pump.

Types of summer water supply

Modern technologies provide a wide selection of materials and methods for creating summer plumbing. Water at the dacha can be supplied using permanent (stationary) communications or collapsible (temporary).

Portable (temporary) water supply system made of polyethylene pipes

It’s very easy to make a collapsible water supply system at your dacha with your own hands. It is quite capable of satisfying the needs of its owners. For this option, thick-walled PE (polyethylene) pipes are used, connected with a collet threaded fitting.

The main advantage of PE pipes is their low cost. The main disadvantage of such a system is the expensive connecting fitting. In addition, the tightness of the connections may be compromised by any movement of the pipes. Therefore, for the summer, polyethylene pipes are laid in shallow grooves, which can be covered with suitable boards. For installing water supply in a house, a PE pipe is inconvenient and is usually not used there.

Stationary water supply system made of polypropylene pipes

Unlike collapsible, non-removable water supply is assembled from PP (polypropylene) pipes, which are tightly soldered into a single system using a special soldering tool. Polypropylene plastic pipes for water supply at the dacha, they are somewhat more expensive than polyethylene ones, but the cost of this fitting is a very small fraction of the total costs of creating a pipeline. Since the PP water supply system is a stationary system, to protect it from frost it is dug into the ground below the freezing level (at least 30 cm deep for a water supply system operated in winter in the Moscow region). If necessary, they are additionally insulated with polystyrene foam, cotton wool, polyprene, or any other suitable insulation material.

Important! If the water supply is not intended to be used in winter, the insulation will not protect the water in the pipes from freezing. The only protection in this case is to lay the pipes deep enough (see table).

Hose surface water supply for irrigation

When the owners come to the dacha quite rarely, and the summer water supply is used mainly for watering plants, its role can be played by a thick garden hose connected to any convenient storage container - a barrel, for example, or directly to a well pump. The hose on the reel is quickly rolled out for use, and just as easily retracted after finishing work.

Pump and filters for water supply in the country

When planning water supply at your dacha with your own hands, you should take into account that it is based on the use of external (vacuum) or submersible (vibration, rotary) pumps. The vacuum pump is located above ground level, which allows it to be installed directly in the house.

The power of the pump is determined by its performance. According to the laws of physics, any vacuum pump, regardless of the motor power, lifts water to a height of no more than 10 m. Therefore, this option is not applicable for deep wells and boreholes.

Submersible rotary and vibration pumps provide significantly greater water lifting heights.

Unlike rotary pumps, vibration pumps have a simple design, high maintainability and a much lower price. However, due to the transmission of vibration into the water, they contribute to the rapid siltation of the water source.

Multistage rotary turbopumps are the best in terms of performance and water lift. The dimensions of such mechanisms are associated with the diameter of the casing pipes of the water well, therefore they are most often used for individual water supply. Rotary pumps are more expensive than vibration pumps and consume more electricity.

Organizing water supply at your dacha with your own hands is only half the battle. Water can be used for irrigation, hand washing and technical use. But, for preparing drinks and food, the water needs to be further purified. During filtration, all mechanical impurities are removed from the water, its salt composition is brought into compliance with the requirements of the SES. If the water does not pass the test for bacteriological contents, such water can only be consumed after boiling.

Reducing water hardness has a beneficial effect on the performance of irrigation systems. When using soft water, nozzles and droppers do not become clogged with deposits and do not require cleaning for several years.

Preparing summer water supply for winter

Freezing of water during winter frosts can break even metal pipe. Therefore, summer dacha water supply is usually dismantled, cleaned, washed, dried and stored in a barn or outbuilding. The exception is soldered water supply from polypropylene pipes laid below the freezing line of the surface.

If the terrain allows, you can organize the slope of all sections of the water supply system to one point to drain the water. When making a water supply system with your own hands, it is important to take into account that water intake from an open reservoir (pond, river, reservoir on the site, well) should be carried out below the maximum permissible ice thickness. That is

Pipes for a stationary water supply must be laid according to the scheme indicated below, and must be insulated from water with waterproof material. The leveling layer under the pipe must be at least 50 mm and carefully compacted to prevent subsidence. After laying the pipe, it is covered with sand or gravel 2-3 cm from the bottom of the trench, including the leveling layer. The total height of the trench (indicated H in the diagram) must be at least 0.5 meters.

If winter operation is not expected, submersible pumps are removed from the wells to the surface, dried, and cleaned of sand and deposits. Inspection, necessary maintenance and preservation with special lubricant are carried out. The preservation process is always described in detail in the operating instructions for the specific product.

Bottom line

Since water supply conditions vary summer cottages differ greatly, there is no single universal recipe for creating a water supply system. But now you know how to make plumbing in your dacha with your own hands, and you can easily solve this issue in a way that is accessible to you.