How to restore a bathtub at home. Do-it-yourself cast iron bathtub repair: common damage and how to fix it. Restoring bathtub enamel

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Over time, any plumbing fixtures wear out and lose their original appearance. Rust, chips, scratches, cracks, loss of shine and whiteness are the inevitable consequences of daily use and improper care. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can restore a decent appearance to old plumbing fixtures. In order for the bathtub renovation to take place with the least amount of money and effort, you need to have a good understanding of the algorithm for this procedure at home, understand how to restore a bathtub, how to paint the inside of the bathtub, and what products to choose.

There are three ways to restore your bathtub yourself. Depending on its initial state, you can choose one of them:

Enamelling.
Restoration using liquid acrylic.
Installing the liner.

Bathtub enameling

Enameling a bathtub with your own hands is a feasible procedure for any owner. To understand how to restore the enamel of a bathtub, you need to pay attention to the condition of the container.

Repairing a cast iron or steel bathtub using enamel is justified if there are no deep chips or cracks. Otherwise, enamel, even applied in 2–4 layers, will not hide serious damage.

How to restore a cast iron bathtub yourself at home? When choosing what to paint the inside of the bathtub with, preference should be given to high-quality epoxy enamel from trusted manufacturers, guided by the following criteria:

Selecting the method of applying enamel: brush, roller, aerosol or pour-on method. The most acceptable are application by brush or pouring, since a roller can impart an unnecessary porous texture, and aerosol spraying can only be used in case of repair of individual areas.
Complete set for coating restoration. It is convenient to purchase a kit that includes everything you need for repairs - enamel, auxiliary components, tools for application and compositions for preparing the bathtub.

Important! Due to its thick consistency, high-quality epoxy enamel can create a smooth, even surface and repair small chips. But you should understand that self-repairing a bathtub at home is inferior to the industrial method of applying enamel: there may be a change in the color of the new enamel, increased vulnerability to shocks and chips, and limitations in care products.

Self-enamelling of a bathtub occurs in two stages: preparatory work and application of enamel.

Applying enamel

How to restore the enamel of a bathtub becomes clearer after reading the instructions for the purchased enamel composition. The important points here are:

Preparation of the composition. Follow the instructions to prepare the enamel, combining the active component and hardener in the required proportions.
Coating with the first layer of enamel. Cover the surface with a thin layer of enamel using a hard wide brush, starting from the top, gradually going down into the depths of the bowl. You can especially carefully walk along the bottom of the bathtub and the drain as the most worn places.
Applying a second layer of enamel. A new enamel layer is applied after some time specified in the instructions. After this, it can be left to dry for 15 minutes.
Correction of leaks. All detected enamel stains must be smeared with a brush, moving up and down and from side to side. This must be done quickly before the enamel dries.
Reapplying enamel. To achieve a more reliable result, increase the strength of the enamel and protect against new chips, a cast iron or metal container can be painted with one or two more layers of enamel.

How to restore the enamel of a bathtub if the chips are deep? It is necessary to repair the chips with putty, polish and degrease. All chips and cracks must be carefully repaired:

Using sandpaper soaked in water, polish the edges of the chip;
degrease cracks with solvent or white spirit;
dry the surface;
apply enamel.

After enameling, the bath should dry for 7–8 days. Proper care behind the bathtub should avoid the use of abrasive detergents.

Restoration using liquid acrylic

Repairing a bathtub with liquid acrylic is an easier process at home than enameling. Acrylic is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress and is unpretentious in work. Using liquid acrylic you can get a beautiful smooth surface that is resistant to temperature changes and hard water.

Because of the way the acrylic is applied, this method is sometimes called "pour bath". Do-it-yourself self-filling bathtub is a suitable economical way to update cast iron products.

Acrylic of the Stakryl brand is often used - a two-component high-density enamel, including a base and a hardener.

Covering a bathtub with acrylic yourself consists of the following steps:

Surface preparation. This process is similar to preparing for enameling: you need to clean the bathtub from the old coating, degrease it, and seal the cracks.
Application of acrylic. Having combined the components according to the instructions, pour acrylic from a convenient container in a thin stream onto the side of the bathtub, pushing it under the edge of the tile. The acrylic layer should be approximately 4–6 mm and flow down to the middle of the container. Moving along the side, you need to pour acrylic evenly. After applying acrylic along the outer edge, continue to pour it into the middle of the container, gradually narrowing the circles and moving in a spiral. The remaining mixture flows into the prepared container through the drain.
Drying. Liquid acrylic can dry from 6 to 24 hours. But it’s still better not to rush to use the updated bathroom right away, but wait a few days.

Restoration using an acrylic liner

The third method of repair is to install a liner or “bath within a bath.” It is impossible to make a liner at home; it is made industrially and is an insert that follows the shape of the bathtub itself. This is an easy and quick way to repair your bathtub yourself. But it also has disadvantages:

Installation requires removal of the bottom row of tiles to secure the edge of the insert.
Inability to repeat the exact shape of a cast iron bathtub with a liner. This is explained by the fact that cast iron is a complex material for molding and has different depressions and protrusions, which, when installing the liner, provoke the formation of voids. All this negatively affects the quality of the new bath.

Liner installation algorithm

Remove the tiles adjacent to the bathtub.
Clean off old enamel.
Wash, degrease and dry the bathtub.
Dismantle the drain system and seal the hole with silicone gaskets.
Try on the liner. Mark the place where the drain neck will be located with a marker. If necessary, trim off excess acrylic.
Pull out the liner and apply two-component foam or mounting adhesive to the entire surface of the bathtub inside.
Return the drainage device and install the liner.
Treat the joint between the bathtub and the wall with plumbing sealant.
For better sealing, install plastic borders.

Any bathtub is subject to damage, abrasion, rust and other destructive processes. It can, of course, be replaced with a new one, but this is a rather expensive process. There is another option - restoring the bathtub with your own hands at home. This option will be much cheaper, but no worse than the replacement.

Restoration methods

Do-it-yourself restoration of a cast-iron bathtub can be done in several ways, which differ from each other, but lead to the desired result:

Use of two-component enamel. The enamel contains a hardener, and the point of the method is to apply the enamel like regular paint on a bathtub;
Restoration of a bathroom with acrylic (glass). This method involves grinding and degreasing the surface of the bathtub and then filling it with acrylic. In two days you will be able to use the restored bathroom;
Using the “bath to bath” method. The method involves installing an acrylic liner that matches the size of the old bathtub. The insert is attached with glue. It can be used for many years to come.

Preparation for restoration

A very important stage of bathtub restoration is preparation. In order to prepare for restoration, it is necessary to remove the old enamel and make the surface as adhesive as possible for future coating. This option is suitable for cast iron and steel bathtubs.

To work you will need:

Cleaning powder (cheap or expensive, your choice);
Solvent;
Cloth sandpaper (approximately P24);
Polyester automotive quick-hardening putty;
Newspapers, film and masking tape;
Vacuum cleaner;
Grinding wheels and grinder;
Fabric that does not leave lint. Be sure to be clean;
Screwdriver;
Construction hairdryer.

1 — Initial

At first, the bathtub is thoroughly cleaned with powder and a brush.

2 - Stripping

Then comes the second step - cleaning with sandpaper. The bathtub must be sanded until risks from abrasive appear. There is no need to rinse off the cleaner before sanding. To simplify and speed up the work, you can use an angle grinder with a special attachment.

3 - Wash

The next stage involves washing off the crumbs and soap film. The bath must be etched with oxalic acid, which is then neutralized by soda.

4 - Fill with water and dry

Bathtub needs to be filled hot water to the edges and leave in this position for about 10 minutes. Then, drain the water and wipe the surface dry with a cloth. It should be dry. You can even dry it with a hair dryer.

5 - Finding defects

Next, the bathtub is inspected for potholes and other major defects. Large defects are covered with automotive putty and sanded after drying. For sanding you need fine sandpaper. All dust must be removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface is well degreased with a solvent and thoroughly wiped with napkins or a cloth that does not leave lint.

6 — Remove the hose

On the sixth step, you need to remove the shower hose and hide the faucet in polyethylene. Such manipulations are necessary to ensure that not a single drop of water falls into the bath during restoration.

7 — The drain grate is removed

Seventh - the drain grate and siphon under the bathtub are unscrewed. Place a container under the hole into which the enamel or acrylic will drain.

8 – Cover nearby surfaces

Finally, it is necessary to cover all surfaces that are located next to the bathtub. You can use newspapers, polyethylene, and secure everything with tape.

In this way, you can restore not only a bathtub, but also washbasins and shower trays made of cast iron or steel.

Fresh coating is no different in durability, but is considered the most economical. The paint will last 2 years, after which it needs to be renewed, or the bathtub needs to be replaced.

The important point is that you need a mask that will protect the respiratory system from the pungent odor of enamel.

1 - Mix the enamel

To begin work, you need to mix the enamel and hardener in a convenient container. The proportions can be found on the hardener package. The resulting solution should be homogeneous.

2 - Apply paint

The paint is applied with a brush or small roller over the entire area. First, make horizontal strokes, and then vertical ones.

The bath needs to be painted twice. Moreover, the second layer is placed immediately. Without waiting for the first one to dry. If smudges appear, they are carefully stretched with a brush.

The third time the bottom is painted. The paint dries within five days. Only after this time will it be possible to use it. While the paint is drying, you need to prevent water and dirt from getting on it.

Restoration with acrylic and filling bath system

Restoring a bathtub with your own hands using liquid acrylic - this method is more practical. The restoration mixture has a two-component composition that does not smell. Stacrylic (a type of acrylic) does not need to be applied with a brush - it spreads on its own and forms a monolithic and even film.

The important point is that the mixture does not dry very quickly, so work can be done slowly.

1 - Kneading

Glass acrylic is mixed in a convenient container using a drill with a mixing attachment.

2 - Pour into the bath

Pour the resulting mixture into a small glass and carefully pour it over the edge of the bath. The guide here is a stream of glass - when it reaches the middle, the glass moves to the side. The mixture in the glass is periodically replenished from a large container.

3 - Repeat the process

When a full circle has been completed, the process is repeated from the middle of the walls. In this case, the mixture cannot be saved. The excess will drain into a container under the bathtub.

4 - Remove bubbles

If bubbles form, remove them with a clean plastic spatula. The glass takes about 4 days to dry. The exact drying chart is indicated on the packaging of self-leveling acrylic.

5 - Remove all protective equipment

After the surface has completely dried, you can remove all protective equipment: newspapers, film, tape and more. The next step is to install the siphon and drain grate.

The fastest way to restore a bathtub yourself at home is to use an acrylic liner. The time for independent work with the insert is approximately 3 hours. You can use it the very next day.

A significant advantage is the fact that the liner reduces thermal conductivity, causing the water to cool longer.

The acrylic liner must be exactly the same size as the old bathtub. It is important to use high-quality adhesive, foam and sealant.

1 - Cleaning and stripping

First you need to remove all the strapping elements. To do this you need a screwdriver and sometimes a grinder.

Preparatory work includes cleaning the bathtub with sandpaper and a grinder, removing debris and degreasing the surface. It should be dry. The cleaner and drier the surface, the better the adhesion of the adhesive foam to it.

The acrylic liners are mixed together with the technological edge, which is carefully cut off with a grinder before work.

2 - Marking is done

The next step is to insert the liner into the bathtub and mark it with a marker. By putting your hand under the bathtub, you can mark circles that will indicate drainage and overflow.

3 — Holes are being drilled

Already according to the markings, holes are drilled. Two-component foam and sealant are applied to the bathtub. It is important to apply foam around the drain and overflow openings. A composition is injected into the foam with a syringe, which prevents the foam from swelling too much, after which the foam is applied from bottom to top in strips to the bottom, walls and sides.

4 — Installation of acrylic liner

Afterwards, you can carefully insert the acrylic liner and also gently press it with your hands, pressing and leveling its position. Excess sealant and foam must be removed.

5 — Siphon installation

After installation, it is necessary to install the siphon and piping. The bath must be filled with water so that when the foam hardens, it does not displace the liner.

After a day you can use it.

Using these methods, you can carry out restoration work on any bathtub with your own hands: steel, cast iron and any other. At the same time, all work is carried out with one’s own hands, which significantly saves the budget.

When a cast-iron bathtub began to lose its whiteness, roughness and grayness began to appear in some places, or the surface became covered with cracks or chips formed, then the question rightly arises - how to repair the bathtub so as not to replace it with a new one.

There is such a method, and more than one. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Features of DIY bathtub repair

One of the ways to restore a bathtub to its original appearance is to try to repair the bathtub yourself. This procedure is quite painstaking and time-consuming. If you follow all the rules, you can achieve an excellent result, and the updated bathroom will serve for at least another couple of years.

Such a short service life of the coating is explained by the fact that in production the enamel is hardened or applied to a hot bath. At home, enameling is more like painting. But still, it is this method that helps owners out if, for example, they simply need to delay the purchase of a new product.

Initially, the bathtub must be prepared by degreasing and cleaning its surface. This is done simply, but a more labor-intensive process would be to further grind the surface using a grinding wheel or sandpaper. Next, you need to apply the enamel in two layers, taking 15 minutes between coats.

Restoring a bathtub - repairing chips can be done using nitro enamel, super cement glue or BF-25 glue with dry white paint. But it is better for this type of work to be performed by a master.

Currently there are three more methods:

Repairing old bathtubs with a special polymer composition using a brush. Performed manually by a master. Most often, the warranty for this type of repair is one year, but the coating can last 3 years.
(bath in the bathroom).
Filling bath – glass.

Let's look at the second and third methods in more detail.

Acrylic bath liner

This method is the most expensive way to restore a bathroom, but at the same time the most durable. After this type of restoration, the bathtub can be used for another 15 years, of course, if proper care is provided.

This method can also be used to repair chipped bathtubs.

When restoring a bathtub using an acrylic liner, the specialist performs the following work:

Removing the strapping.
Preparing the bath.
Edge trimming.
Marking holes and fitting the liner.
Applying 2-component foam around the perimeter of the product and sealant in the drain area.
Direct installation of the liner.
Installation of piping and filling the bathtub with water.

The bath must be left filled throughout the day, then the water is drained and the product can be used.

Filling bath – glass

This method of restoring a bathtub is not as expensive as repairing a steel bathtub using an acrylic liner. It takes no more than six hours of continuous work, but the result is worth it.

Stages of preparing a bathtub for applying bulk, liquid acrylic or stacrylic:

It is necessary to remove the bathtub trims.
It is necessary to thoroughly prepare the surface of the bathtub. Preparatory work very similar to the work when enameling a bathtub. Initially, a product is applied to the bathtub to eliminate plaque and rust. It is important to read the instructions for the chosen product to work with it.
Next, the surface of the bath must be cleaned with sandpaper until matte.

Preparing the bathtub for restoration

Re-clean the bathtub using Pemolux. Between cleanings, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the bathtub with a large volume of water.
Dry the bath. For additional degreasing, it can be treated with solvent 646.

For reference. Bathtub restoration specialists prepare the surface of the bathtub a little differently. Before cleaning, they carefully examine the surface and only then (depending on the condition of the product) they begin to clean the bathtub, using various means.

There is no need to describe all the nuances, since there are a lot of them. For this reason, the simplest surface preparation method is described.

Preparation and direct application of the composition for the filling bath

Bath before and after restoration

The composition of enamel for a self-leveling bath includes two components - a hardener and a base. To dilute the material, you need to add a hardener to the container with the base and mix thoroughly. You need to stir for about 5-10 minutes. Next, you need to let the finished mixture brew for another 10 minutes and mix thoroughly again.

Repair old bath, in general, simple. First you need to pour a strip of the mixture along the side and use a spatula to insert the mixture under the tile or other finishing material, depending on how the bathroom walls are decorated. Then the remaining solution must be applied in a spiral over the entire surface of the bath.

Caring for a Restored Bathroom

Bathroom care should be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

Various hard sponges can damage the coating. You should also not use acid-containing products, for example, Sanox.
You cannot clean the bathtub with cleaning products that are intended for cleaning tiles and toilets, as they contain various abrasive substances and acids. As a result of exposure to these drugs, the enamel quickly deteriorates, the bathtub rusts and turns yellow.
It is forbidden to allow water to accumulate in the bath for a long time; it must drain freely. It is necessary to keep the bath dry when not in use.
Faucets and showers must be functional, otherwise water leaks will lead to rust and a yellow permanent coating.
It is also not recommended to soak colored laundry in the bath.
The coating can be destroyed if metal basins are placed in the bathtub. If you cannot do without this, then you need to place a wooden pallet or soft rag under the basin.

The bathtub will last longer if there is not a very sharp temperature contrast, in other words, it is not recommended to run cold and then hot water.

As a result of this exposure, cracks and chips appear in the bathtub.

Restoring a bathtub is always much cheaper than purchasing a new one. Therefore, carefully following our advice, feel free to begin restoring the coating of the old bathtub.

It’s nice when inexpensive but neat renovations are done at home, and especially when everything is done with your own hands. Anyone who gets down to business first evaluates their capabilities, selects material, time and finances. But, it’s one thing to change the tiles in the bathroom, and another thing to change a bathtub that has turned yellow from time to time.

However, there is no need to rush to change it, since the enamel coating can be restored. You can learn how to make an inexpensive and high-quality restoration of a cast-iron bathtub at home from this article.

Despite the large selection of bathtubs of different shapes, sizes and materials, all are also in demand on the market. After all, such a cast base is practically eternal and can last for several generations.

What does that require? Just periodic restoration of the enamel coating of a cast iron bathtub is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To carry out restoration work correctly, you need to learn a little more about the types of damage.

Type #1 – yellowness and plaque

Roughly speaking, these are the remains of metal oxides found in water. Over the years, more and more oxides are deposited, they saturate the top layer of paint. And the moment comes when the yellowness can no longer be washed off, the top layer becomes yellow.

Yellowness on the surface of the enamel occurs with prolonged contact with water. The most typical causes for this type of damage are a leaking faucet, drops of water from the shower head, improper installation of the drain.

Type #2 – mechanical damage

Scratches or other damage to the factory enamel layer. Enamel coating is thermosetting components baked at high temperatures in several layers, which when dry become very hard, but brittle.

Any sharp blow to the surface with a hard object often leads to cracks and even chipping of part of the coating.

Damage to the gloss occurs when using products containing corundum or glass abrasives. The use of such pastes damages the gloss over time, which leads to moisture retention on the surface and the entry of various contaminants into micropores.

Coverage restoration options

To restore the internal surface of bathtubs, three types of restoration are common:

applying enamel coating using a brush or spray gun;
treating the bathtub bowl with a polymer compound - acrylic;

Dye– the service life of the enamel coating largely depends on the experience of the craftsman and the thoroughness of the preparation of the base of the bathtub/bowl. As a rule, even with careful handling of the restored coating, its service life does not exceed 1-1.5 years.

Liquid acrylic used to restore bathtubs of non-standard shape. The technology allows you to update the bowl yourself, without involving a team of craftsmen. True, you need to buy a high-quality polymer from a trusted manufacturer.

Installing the liner– this option is quite problematic, since they are cast in a certain shape and it can be very difficult to choose the right size for your bathtub. And quite often it is impossible - if you have a bowl of non-standard shape.

The choice of method for restoring it will depend on the shape and size of the bathtub. For example, in a situation with products of non-standard shapes, it is better to opt for an acrylic coating

We won’t give advice on what type of restoration is better - you will figure it out on your own, assessing the condition of your bathtub and your own strengths.

Step-by-step instructions for enamel restoration

Enamel, intended for restoring the surface of a cast iron bathtub, is a material that contains a base and a hardener.

Simply put, enamel is not exactly paint in the traditional sense, but rather polymer composites that meet numerous requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to treat it as a complex chemical composition, which is manufactured and mixed using a special technology.

The main color is white, and various fillers and dyes are used to prepare colored shades.

It’s worth mentioning right away that the enameling does not in any way pretend to be of factory quality, so it should be treated as if it were a routine repair. This is just a coating with a thin layer of film that hardens in air without special ovens.

The technology of coating a bathtub with enamel is divided into four stages:

Putty, or, as it can also be called, leveling out all irregularities, if any.
Preparing the base for coating, which involves cleaning and removing the surface layer of existing enamel.
Enamel preparation and application to the surface.
Proper drying or drying.

All stages of work are very important, nothing should be missed here. Even a small inaccuracy can lead to a decrease in the service life of the coating, but let’s look at everything in order. First of all, you need to remove chips or scratches.

Step #1 – surface preparation

To properly prepare the interior surface, it is best to remove the completely damaged layer of paint. For this the most the best option, if the layer is protected before priming.

Cleaning can be done manually or using electrical devices: angle grinder (angle grinder), drill, grinder.

The surface is processed manually using an abrasive method; for this, two types of working material are used: sandpaper and metal mesh, which is used to level the plaster during construction and repair.

The abrasive cloth has a paper or fabric base. Fabric ones are available in moisture-resistant and regular types. The grain size is measured in microns, so the higher the number, the finer the grain. The abrasive cloth can be used for handmade in holders or with power tools

When using sandpaper, you need to select the base to which it will be attached. For this, there are special graters with screw or spring clamps at the edges. You can also make the base yourself from a block of wood.

Sandpaper There are several types: paper and fabric based. Fabric ones are more durable and can be washed, paper-based ones are not. Fabric ones impregnated with a special composition are more resistant to abrasion. Suitable grain size for work P120-P180.

Metal grid more practical because it does not wear out or lose grain, and if it becomes clogged with dust, you can wash it and continue working. The mesh is attached to the holders.

A standard holder for an abrasive mesh or sandpaper should have a flat and rigid surface. Clamps for the blade can be screw or spring.

When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the handle, which must be cast with a base. If the handle is attached with glue, then there is a chance that it will break in the midst of work. Professional meshes can be made from tungsten filaments, but they are much more expensive.

The mesh markings are the same as sandpaper. Widespread brands: R-120, R-150, R-180, R-240. To remove the surface layer of paint from a bathtub would be better suited P120 – P180.

Surface preparation is carried out until all defects are completely removed, or until the ground layer is reached.

Step #2 – preparation and application of the composite

If the surface has unevenness, chips, or deep scratches, then it is better to use special putties to level the surface.

To putty cracks, chips, and deep scratches, a putty is selected that contains fiberglass in its structure. Such composites are best suited for repairing chips and irregularities

In order to prepare the place for repairing the chip, you need to:

thoroughly degrease the defect with bleach, denatured alcohol or acetone;
rinse the area with running water and dry with a hairdryer;
clean thoroughly with sandpaper;
rinse again with clean water and dry with a hairdryer;
prepare the composite.

According to practicing craftsmen, putty containing fiberglass is better suited - this composition is the most durable.

So, among suitable putties, we can recommend a polyester company Novol or Body. These materials, after hardening, have high ductility, which is important in conditions of constantly changing temperatures when using a bathroom.

Finishing putty cannot be used to seal chips in bathtubs. Since it has a large linear temperature expansion.

You must first decide on the volume required material. You only need a little putty, so it’s best to buy a small jar. High-quality putties are two-component, one of which is a hardener.

The ratio of mixed components is determined according to the instructions for use, but if there is none, then general standard 1:10. After combining the 2 components, you need to mix them thoroughly and quickly until smooth, the start time for hardening is 2 minutes.

Once the components are ready, you can begin sealing. It is best to repair uneven areas with a soft nylon spatula. This will allow you to clearly repeat the shape of the curves of the bathtub body. Yes, and you don’t mind throwing away such a spatula later, saving valuable time for work

After the composite is ready, all defects are repaired with a plastic spatula. Having finished sealing the unevenness, it is necessary to clean all the working tools, because after 10-15 minutes the putty will turn into “stone”.

Step #3 – painting the cast iron bowl

Painting of the accessible part of the surface is done manually using a velor roller; inaccessible areas are painted with a brush.

To apply paint with a roller, the prepared paint is poured into a special ditch. After immersing the roller in the paint, it must be rolled one or two turns along the ribbed edge of the ditch.

Then paint with intense movements from the bottom of the bathtub to the edge of the top, while the movements should be directed from bottom to top. Inaccessible places for the roller are painted with a flute brush.

Step #4 – drying after painting

Drying after painting occurs only under natural conditions: drying of one layer of paint should last at least 3 days. Each repeated layer adds another day. Thus, drying with a three-layer coating will be at least 6 days.

It is not recommended to speed up this process with artificial ventilation, because uneven drying is possible, which will lead to internal tension of the film, and as a consequence, its subsequent peeling.

There is no need to rush into drying the enamel or acrylic coating of a bathtub, as this can lead to a lot of troubles, from reducing the service life of the coating to peeling it off.

Having decided to go it alone, it is important to adhere to a number of rules and perform all actions consistently. Only in this case can a positive result be guaranteed.

If the shower is not dismantled, it must be removed to eliminate even the theoretical possibility of water drops falling while the paint is drying.

Secondly, degrease the prepared surface. The best solution for degreasing is denatured alcohol, solvent 646, or, in extreme cases, acetone.

Solvents are good for processing, but do not remove residual corundum particles or debris, so after cleaning it is best to rinse and vacuum the surface.

Third, you should prepare the paint correctly. It must be mixed according to the attached instructions. It is worth remembering that the time for painting after mixing the components is 15-20 minutes.

The viscosity of the paint should not be too thick, otherwise it will be very difficult to apply, but not liquid, so that drips do not form.

Almost all paints are diluted with 646 solvent or acetone. The acrylic-based composition is incompatible with domestic solvents.

Fourth, you need to take time to prepare the brush flute. Which consists of combing out loose hairs with a fine comb so that they do not fall out during the coloring process.

Then you need to run it over coarse sandpaper several times to give the bristles a pointed appearance.

Fifthly To speed up the surface preparation process, you can use a power tool. If you don’t find what you need, you can borrow it from a good-natured neighbor or friend.

A home craftsman who does his own repairs must have electrical appliances in his arsenal: a drill, screwdriver

A number of surface grinders consist of a sandpaper belt moving like a conveyor. The width of the tape can vary greatly. And the machines themselves - of varying power and belt speed

You can also use a screwdriver to prepare the surface, clamping a backing material for the abrasive material into the chuck instead of a drill. Or use special attachments for angle grinder typewriter

When using electrical appliances to paint surfaces, you should pay attention to some of their features:

Not all power tools have dust protection in the ventilation holes; to prevent paint particles from getting inside the device, you can cover the ventilation holes with several layers of gauze.
Electrical appliances with commutator motors during operation create a spark between the electric brush and the commutator plates. If they are used continuously, paint will accumulate inside, which can cause a fire.

When using power tools, it is better to give preference to devices with rechargeable batteries - they are more mobile and safer.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This is how you putty a chipped bathroom:

The most common mistakes when restoring coverage:

Detailed instructions for restoring the bathtub cover:

As you can see, it is not so difficult to do it at home; the main thing is to clearly understand the sequence of operations and do everything without errors. But if you doubt your own abilities, entrust this work to professionals.

Have you ever renovated a bathtub yourself? Please tell visitors to our site which method you used and why you chose it. Leave your comments in the block below. There you can ask questions about the topic of the article.

During the renovation process, the question often arises of what to do with the bathroom: buy a new one or try to update the old one. If finances are not enough to replace equipment, then do-it-yourself bathtub restoration is what you need. If you are far from building and decorating both rooms and bathrooms, you may have difficulties, which nowadays can be easily overcome by watching videos. You can also see step-by-step photos of the entire process.

Ways to change the appearance of your bathroom for the better

Applying enamel with a brush, one of the ways to restore the coating

There are several ways to restore a bathtub with your own hands. The three most popular are:

enamelling;
using poured acrylic;
installation of the liner.

It is important to choose the right technology by which the work will be carried out, otherwise restoring the bathroom with your own hands will not bring the expected result. If you are not confident in your strength and ability to apply an even layer of coating to the surface, then it is best to choose a liner. On the other hand, pay attention to the condition of the bathtub.

Tip: If it is damaged, there are chips and cracks, then the enamel will not be able to hide them. In this case, self-leveling acrylic or liner would be the best option.

If there is no external damage, but if the bathtub is quite worn by time and is badly worn out or yellowed in places, then you can use regular enamel. Restoring bathtubs with your own hands using various methods has a number of nuances that need to be taken into account when performing work.

In all cases, before carrying out work, the bathtub must be disconnected from communications and the overflow prevention system must be removed. After the independent restoration of the bathtub is completed, it is necessary to return everything to its place and check the tightness. To do this, you need to fill the bathtub with some water, remove the plug and look under it with a flashlight. If water leaks, it is necessary to find and eliminate the cause.

What should you pay attention to when performing enameling?

When you buy a bathtub, its service life is on average 15-20 years. This is due to the fact that in industrial conditions enameling is carried out differently than restoration of bathtubs at home. This method of increasing service life will help you not think about buying a new bathtub for a couple of years. Before you start purchasing materials, pay attention to the cases in which restoring a bathtub with enamel will help give it an impeccable appearance:

if the old bathroom has become rough to the touch and cracks in the coating are visible;
there is no shine or visible yellowness;
rust is visible in places;
There are lime deposits on the surface of the bathtub.

Important! Don't spare money on quality enamel. Finnish enamel from the Tikkurila company is applied more evenly than Epoxin or Epovin. In addition, the latest types of enamel take 4 days to harden, during which you will not be able to use your bathroom for its intended purpose.

Do not skimp on quantity and enamel and apply only one layer. The second layer, which will give your bathtub a beautiful shine, must be applied immediately after the first, without waiting for it to harden. Owners of colored bathtubs need to select enamel that is similar in color. For example, if it was previously dark blue, then you will not be able to make it completely white in one go. If you still want to change the color, then choose a closer tone.

Surface preparation and related errors

Restoring a very old bathtub is not as simple a process as it seems at first glance, and the most common mistake is improper surface preparation. It is absolutely identical if you apply acrylic or enamel, so the tips are also similar.

The main purpose of surface preparation is to obtain a good base for the subsequent application of a new coating. Most often, inexperienced craftsmen try to get it smooth when processing and polishing. This is the main mistake, since it is necessary for it to be rough for better adhesion.

You can often see in recommendations on how to revive a bathtub that it is necessary to preheat the surface and only then treat it. Experienced craftsmen are skeptical about this advice. You can check whether the surface is ready for coating in a simple way– run your fingernail along it; if it slides, it means the bath is not ready for further work. It should feel like you've rubbed it on sandpaper.

Tip: Before you restore the bathtub with your own hands, stock up on an abrasive detergent - you can mix coarse salt with soda or buy Pemolux. Apply the powder twice over the entire surface of the bath and rub well. This way the surface is degreased. Once you're done, you need to do a water test. If it rolls down the bathroom in drops, then the surface is not degreased enough.

The most labor-intensive process is sanding the bathtub. To do this, use a drill or grinder. Beginners in this business should learn the main thing: you should not take up an angle grinder, as one awkward movement and the surface will be hopelessly damaged. In some cases, it gets to the point where holes form on the surface of the bathtub. Until the moment when instruments appeared in almost every home and began to be sold at quite affordable prices, a file was used for this work.

When preparing the surface, treatment of the sanding bath is often overlooked. It is best to completely remove dirt, fill the bath with Sanox and leave for half an hour, and then rinse thoroughly. Do not think that this is a harmless chemical and do not wear gloves; not a single drop should get on your skin, as this can cause a serious burn.

Preparing acrylic or enamel for work

Two-component mixtures are the most popular and durable

If you are going to restore a bathtub at home using liquid products such as acrylic or enamel, then immediately before applying the composition. Both acrylic and enamel are mixed with the hardener.

In both cases, the mixture must be mixed with special care. It is best to use a drill with a whisk attachment. In this case, the most common mistake made is to assess the condition of the mixture by eye. It is best to focus on time; in order for the mixture to really become homogeneous, you need to stir it for about 15 minutes. Make sure that no untouched parts of the mixture remain on the bottom and sides of the container.

Tip: After the mixture is mixed, it must be used within 45 minutes. Many instructions indicate a time of about an hour, but it is best to focus on the time indicated above, since closer to an hour the mixtures become more viscous and are worse distributed over the surface. If you use acrylic, then this is not critical, since it is simply poured over the surface of the bathtub, but enamel is applied with a brush and this process can take a long time.

If you are not sure that you can quickly apply the first layer with a brush, then invite an assistant and divide the enamel into two parts. While you are doing the coloring, he can mix the second part.

The main nuances of resurfacing according to the “bath to bath” principle

Installing an acrylic liner

Refinishing a bathtub yourself using an acrylic liner is often considered the easiest way to renovate. Indeed, much less work needs to be done in terms of surface preparation. But in the process of installing the liner, you can make a lot of mistakes that will reduce all your efforts to nothing.

Restoring an old bathtub with a liner is impossible if you choose the wrong size and shape. Usually the sides of the liner are slightly wider than the old bathtub; they need to be cut off. This must be done carefully so as not to cut off excess and damage the liner.

When applying glue, special attention must be paid to the places intended for installing the drain and overflow system. After installation, you must crimp the liner by hand. And then plug the bathtub and fill it with water. Using this technique, the liner will lie evenly.

Conclusion

Based on all of the above, we can say that restoring a bathtub yourself is possible, but requires certain skills. A person who has never dealt with repairs and painting can make many mistakes. We hope that after reading this you will avoid most of them. Inexperienced craftsmen are recommended to carry out work using poured acrylic or liner.