How to build a greenhouse diagram. How to make a greenhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and photo examples. How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Unfortunately, we live in an era of catastrophically polluted ecology, and the desire of most people all year round Eating organic foods is understandable. Hence the interest of those who have at least some plot of land in their use in the construction of greenhouses.

Construction of winter greenhouses

Greenhouses are different: seasonal or capital, large or small, factory-made or home-made. But they have the same goal - to get an environmentally friendly harvest as early as possible and as large as possible.

Currently, there is a large selection of greenhouses of various designs. . It is very difficult for a beginner to understand what to choose and where to even begin construction. How to calculate the area of ​​a greenhouse to obtain the planned harvest, whether a foundation is needed and what kind, how to conduct heating, which roof to give preference to, and much more. So let's start with the basics.

Types of greenhouse structures

Winter greenhouses differ from seasonal ones in many respects.

But the variety of winter greenhouses in terms of architectural design is especially great.

1. Wall-mounted. Good for a small winter garden or vegetable garden. Having a common wall with the house allows you to reduce the cost of construction.
2. Arched. The traditional dimensions of such structures are 2 x 4 x 3 m. Low-growing crops, herbs and vegetables feel comfortable in them. Arched greenhouses are not suitable for growing climbing and tall plants.
3. Single-slope, double-slope, triple-slope.
4. Farmer's. These are multifunctional devices designed for year-round use in almost all climatic zones. They are distinguished by their large area, sometimes they are entire mini-plantations, allowing for the cultivation of a large volume of products (not only in the ground, but also using the hydroponics method).

Photo gallery: types of winter greenhouses

Wall-mounted greenhouses are small in size and economical to construct It is convenient to grow low-growing crops in arched capital greenhouses
Farm greenhouses are used in all regions and are designed to produce a large harvest The teardrop-shaped gable roof can withstand heavy loads and remove snow well in winter.

But whatever the configuration, it should be remembered that a winter greenhouse is a solid structure with heating and lighting. And frankly speaking, its construction is not a cheap pleasure. On the other hand, with one investment of money and effort, you will enjoy quality products throughout the year for many years. And the result of your work will no longer depend on the vagaries of the weather or the soil, but only on your diligence and skill.

Greenhouse thermos: pros and cons

The thermos greenhouse is especially popular among domestic gardeners, primarily because it allows you to get a high yield while minimizing the cost of its maintenance (lighting and heating). It received its name because it is a structure completely isolated not only from atmospheric conditions, but also from cold soil.

The thermos greenhouse fully lives up to its name, because it is a structure isolated from the external environment in which even the most exotic plants can be grown

Advantages of a thermos greenhouse:

• getting an excellent harvest all year round;
• possibility of use in any climatic conditions;
• high light transmittance;
• good thermal insulation performance (energy savings);
• the ability to retain heat received through solar energy for a long time. This is what creates the effect of a thermos;
• the ability to grow any crops, even such capricious ones as grapes.

Flaws:

• labor intensity and cost of construction;
• the need to have at least basic skills and understanding of the design of the heating, ventilation and household communications systems.

It is easy to see that this design has more advantages than disadvantages, so in today’s realities this is perhaps the best option for all-season growing of herbs, fruits and vegetables, not only for your family, but also for sale.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden thermos greenhouse

DIY greenhouse construction

Before starting construction, answer yourself a number of questions:

1. Do you really need a permanent greenhouse and why?
2. What results do you expect from using it?
3. Where do you plan to build it?

Agree, if you live in a private house and will build a greenhouse on your personal plot - this is one thing, but to build a greenhouse on summer cottage where no one lives in winter is completely different.

If you are building a greenhouse on an area that remains uninhabited in winter, it is hardly worth making it all-season

An important criterion is your financial capabilities at the moment and their at least a little security for the future, so that instead of the planned harvest you do not end up with unfinished construction.

If you have thought it over and decided, then there is a certain sequence of construction that you need to know.

Preparing for construction

The amount of materials is calculated individually depending on the size and configuration of the building.

Stages of construction of a winter greenhouse

1. Laying the foundation. The winter greenhouse must be mounted on a foundation. It not only securely secures the structure, but also protects the crops from weeds, and also prevents atmospheric water from the outside from penetrating into the greenhouse. The choice of foundation type depends on the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater, the presence of a drainage system on the site and the size of the future structure. For small-sized winter greenhouses, any foundation is suitable: block, brick, point, strip, on piles, etc. For large buildings, a concrete foundation is laid (sometimes timber is used). When pouring the foundation, soil should be removed from the pit to the depth of the freezing layer (80–90 cm).

   Shallow strip foundation ideal for small greenhouses

2. For permanent greenhouses, the frame is assembled from a profile pipe, angle, or hat profile. The best is considered to be a corner (galvanized corner profile). Since the hat profile and profile pipe cannot withstand large amounts of snow, they are best used in regions with little snow, despite the fact that they are easy and quick to install. The corner profile is assembled without welding using bolts and can withstand snow cover of up to 100 kg per 1 m². The finished frame is attached to the foundation using anchor bolts. They provide sufficient strength and rigidity to the fastening, and the difference in the heat capacity of the materials protects the structure from the negative effects of heat or severe frost. In order to save money, you can make the frame not galvanized, but aluminum, but here you need to take into account the weather conditions in the region (wind and snow). The aluminum structure can be deformed under their influence.
   

   The metal frame of a winter greenhouse can be reinforced with transverse stiffeners

3. Covering the frame. Most often used:
   
4. Construction of the roof. The most common is a gable shape with a slope of 20–25°. The angle of inclination is individual for different roof shapes. The runoff of rainwater and the bearing capacity of the greenhouse in relation to the snow load depend on it. Therefore, you should not neglect this indicator. Making such a roof yourself is not difficult. To do this, lower strapping bars in the amount of 2 pieces are laid along the side walls. A ridge beam is attached to them using paired rafters. For wooden greenhouses, it is recommended to use timber with a section of 120 x 150 mm for the ridge and trim and 70 x 100 mm for the rafters. In metal greenhouses, the roof is made of the same elements as the main frame.
   

   The angle of inclination of the roof must be selected based on aesthetic requirements and the ability of the greenhouse to withstand layers of snow on its surface

5. Heating device. In fact, heating needs to be decided at the very beginning of construction, since this is perhaps the most expensive and most important expense item. It is heating that allows us to grow crops all year round in our latitudes.

Video: stages of greenhouse construction

1. Greenhouse foundation and frame. First you need to make a base no lower than 90–120 cm. It can be monolithic (solid) or brick (ceramic) at your discretion. Attach a frame (metal-plastic, wood, metal) to it and cover the walls with cellular polycarbonate ( better thickness 8–10 mm). Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms to allow access to atmospheric air and, if necessary, equipped with special valves (supply ventilation valves).

   Ventilation windows can be opened manually or using an automatic system that analyzes atmospheric conditions inside and outside the greenhouse

2. Greenhouse covering. To cover the frame, double glass 4 mm thick or cellular polycarbonate is used, which has undeniable advantages over glass. First of all, they are that when using polycarbonate, heating costs are reduced, therefore, with current energy tariffs, you can save a lot on the operation and maintenance of the greenhouse.
3. Glazing. If glass is still chosen as the coating, then the scheme for its fastening is as follows. You need to start glazing from strapping beam, moving upward in the direction of the ridge. The glass is placed on putty up to 2 mm thick and secured with wooden (possibly plastic) glazing beads using metal pins. Between the glass itself and the glazing beads, putty should also be applied, for which modern plastic mixtures or sealants are used.

   After the glass is inserted into the frame, it must be coated along the contour with sealant and then secured with a wooden or plastic bead.

4. Water drainage. A canopy will help protect the walls of the greenhouse from water leakage. A drainage chute is laid along its inner side, through which excess condensate is removed. Use a galvanized profile. A correctly installed canopy should deviate from the plane of the wall by approximately 6–8 cm.
   

   Various canopies and gutters are used to protect the walls of the greenhouse and collect rainwater.

Greenhouse heating

Heating is the most important engineering system for a winter greenhouse. When constructing it, it is important to maintain a compromise between economic feasibility and providing the necessary microclimate for the crops grown.

For small greenhouses, the usable area of ​​which is within 15–20 m², it is enough to equip them with stove heating. To heat larger greenhouses use:

1. Water heating. This is the most traditional type of greenhouse heating. The system consists of a water heating boiler, pipes (forward and return), as well as expansion tank. The pipes are placed in the ground or under container racks (if plants are grown in containers rather than in the ground).
   

   The water heated in the boiler is distributed through pipes, where it gives off its heat to the surrounding soil

2. Electric heating- infrared, cable or air. This type of heat generation is most often used in cases where water supply is burdensome (for example, in summer cottages where water is supplied according to a schedule) or in those areas where there is a preferential nightly electricity tariff. The connection diagram for such heating is reminiscent of a heated floor system - electrical cables are laid at the bottom of the pit, which are covered with a layer of sand and then soil. An undoubted advantage of such heating is additional heating of the soil, and if a sensor and controller are installed, then the required temperature can be maintained automatically without human intervention.

   Electric heating is produced by cables that heat up when electric current passes through them.

3. IR heating. This is a type of electric heating system, which is much simpler to implement: heating elements such as UFO or fan heaters are placed under the ceiling of the greenhouse.

   To heat the greenhouse, you can hang electric heaters from the ceiling

4. Heating using biofuel. This is the most economical look heating today is the type of heating. Using biofuel is as easy as shelling pears - organic matter is laid on a layer of fertile soil. Next, you need to provide and maintain the necessary humidity (up to 70%) and aeration (air flow). The waste is subsequently used as humus. The soil and air in the greenhouse heat up due to the decomposition of organic matter:
   • horse manure can maintain temperatures up to 38 °C for three months;
   • cow manure provides heating up to 20 °C for 100 days;
   • straw gives temperatures up to 45 °C, but not for long (within 10 days).

When using organic matter, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level so as not to ruin the soil, and therefore the crop.

Video: water heating of a greenhouse using a gas boiler

Useful systems for increasing greenhouse yields

So, you have made up your mind and decided to have a greenhouse! Then you need to think about illuminating the plants in order to artificially extend daylight hours. This is especially true for northern regions, where natural sunlight is not enough for plant photosynthesis.

It's not difficult to do it yourself. The main thing is to correctly calculate the total power of special lamps per area of ​​the beds and set the time and duration of operation on the light sensor and timer.

It wouldn’t hurt to make automatic drip irrigation to timely replenish the plant root system with moisture. The operating principle of such automation is simple; any owner can handle it if desired. Water is drawn into a container where a heating element is installed, and then, using a pump, strictly on a timer, through supply hoses, compensated drippers and root pegs, it is supplied to the plants.

To have fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables all year round, not only on your table, but also to quickly recoup the financial costs of construction, you need to have a greenhouse with a usable area of ​​at least 50–60 m², and ideally 100 m².

Video: building a winter greenhouse

In this article we highlighted the main aspects of building winter greenhouses with your own hands. We hope that now you will be able to quickly build a winter greenhouse and will enjoy the fruits of your labor for many years.

Winter greenhouses are designed primarily for growing plants throughout the year. As we know, in winter, vegetables, berries and herbs are very expensive, so many summer residents build structures on their site with their own hands in order to always have fresh salads and compotes on the table. But before starting construction work, it is necessary to carefully think through the design of the future greenhouse, its heating system and make an accurate drawing.

Construction device

Today, winter greenhouses can be built from various materials. Therefore, each owner of a summer cottage can choose the most suitable and cost-effective options for himself.

Shapes and sizes of greenhouses:

The design of a winter greenhouse must withstand severe frosts, snowfalls and other atmospheric phenomena. The most durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material for constructing a greenhouse frame is wood. But such a structure can last no more than 15 years, and then it will have to be updated.

The most durable and profitable design is considered to be a greenhouse with polycarbonate cladding, since this material is of high quality, long service life and affordable price.

Any winter greenhouse must have a foundation, frame and glass roof. It is best to build such a structure from north to south. The room must have a good ventilation system to regulate heat and air conditions for the proper functioning of plants.

Ventilation can be supply or exhaust. The tightness of the greenhouse is the main condition for its effective functioning. The temperature is maintained artificially.

The greenhouse can be racked, in which the plants are placed on shelves with sides, or rackless, where the plants are planted directly into the ground. The racks in the greenhouse should be approximately at a height of about 60–80 cm from the ground, and the passage between them should be at least 70 cm. The racks are made of wooden boards, plastic or reinforced concrete, depending on the design features greenhouses.

Photo gallery: selection of project options

Greenhouse drawing with dimensions
Scheme of a rack greenhouse
Winter greenhouse design option

Types of structures: advantages and disadvantages

Winter greenhouses come in several types depending on their design features, type of material used, type of lighting, heating system, and foundation design.

• Capital greenhouses are built on a strip foundation. A trench is dug in the center, which is designed to “collect” cold air, which should not reach the roots of the seedlings. Thanks to this design, the inside of the greenhouse warms up quickly enough and therefore seedlings can be planted several weeks earlier than usual.
• Capital types of conventional type greenhouses are collapsible structures that can be dismantled and moved around the site. To build such a greenhouse, use metal or plastic profile, polycarbonate, as well as bolted connections. Piles serve as the foundation.

The remaining types are prefabricated structures. Only in a permanent structure can a full-fledged heating and artificial lighting system be installed.

Greenhouses may differ in such parameters as:

• Functionality. They allow you to grow not only ordinary vegetables of a given region, but also exotic ones.
• Location in relation to the ground. There can be three types: recessed, surface and arranged in the upper part of the barn, garage, closet, etc.
• Architectural solution. They can be with a single-pitched, gable, three-pitched roof, as well as arched, wall-mounted and combined.

Greenhouses also differ:

• By type of building materials. They can be built from brick, wooden beams, metal profiles or PVC pipes. Polycarbonate or glass is used as a coating. Today, combined greenhouses, in which the walls are lined with polycarbonate and the roof is made of glass, are in great demand.
• According to the type of heating system. Winter greenhouses can operate on biofuel, solar panels, and also have stove, air, gas, water heating or electric.
• By type of planting seedlings and plants. They are planted in the ground or in specially knocked down boxes placed on shelves.

Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into the following types:

1. The thermos greenhouse, or as it is called the “Patia greenhouse,” despite the complexity of its design, is one of the most popular among summer residents. Its main part is located underground, due to which the “thermos” effect is achieved. It can also be above ground, but it must be covered from the inside with any heat-insulating material. In such a greenhouse, it is recommended to install a water heating system, as it will allow warm air flows to be evenly distributed throughout the room.
2. A greenhouse with a gable roof is the most common design due to its convenience and versatility. The height of the greenhouse reaches 2-.5 meters to the ridge, so a person can walk in it without bending his head. Also, in it, seedlings can be grown not only on the ground, but also in special boxes on racks. The advantage of a gable design is that snow and rainwater do not accumulate on the roof surface, but quickly go down. Disadvantages: high cost of materials, complexity of construction and large heat losses through the northern wall. Therefore, it must be additionally insulated with various heat-insulating materials.
3. An arched greenhouse is considered a complex structure, as it often causes problems with the construction of the frame and cladding. Without a special device, it is almost impossible to bend metal pipes to make a frame (but you can take PVC pipes). It is not possible to use glass to cover the frame, so only polycarbonate or different kinds greenhouse films. The disadvantage of an arched greenhouse is the real danger of cracks in the polycarbonate during heavy snowfall, since if the layer is too large, the roof will not withstand the load. There is no possibility to place racks and shelves inside such a structure, so plants can only be grown on the ground.
4. Greenhouse with sloping walls. The design of such a greenhouse resembles an ordinary “house” in appearance, but only with walls built at a certain angle, extending outside the room. The advantage of such a greenhouse is the possibility of construction from wood, metal, and plastic. Glass, polycarbonate, film can serve as cladding. The biggest advantage is considered to be a “self-cleaning” gable roof. The downside is the restrictions on installing racks and shelves around the perimeter of the walls due to the sloping walls.
5. Greenhouse with mansard roof. A type of structure with vertical walls and a mansard roof, which copes well with mechanical loads such as snow. Thanks to the special roof, more space is created above your head, and a large number of multi-tiered racks and shelves can be placed on the walls.
6. Single slope greenhouse. The design of the walls is no different from a gable roof, but here the roof is installed at a certain angle so that snow falls off it and rainwater drains without getting inside the room. Glass and polycarbonate can be used for cladding. Polyethylene film is not suitable for a winter greenhouse. Along the walls you can install shelves and racks on top of each other for multi-tiered growing of plants. It is practically devoid of disadvantages, except for the complexity of construction and installation of a strip foundation.

Preparatory work: drawings and dimensions of the structure

We will consider the construction of a winter greenhouse 3.34 meters wide and 4.05 meters long. The total area of ​​the room for growing crops is 10 square meters. meters.

The greenhouse is a square room buried in the ground with shelves and a roof made of durable two-layer polycarbonate.

If there is groundwater on the site and it is close to the surface, then the greenhouse is built without deepening, and the outer sides of the structure are sprinkled with soil.

If necessary, the length of the structure can be increased by adding additional sections to the frame.

Structure of racks and their dimensions

Where the beam connects, a triangular support is constructed. The dimensions are shown below in the drawing.

Ridge posts are needed to support the timber at the connection point. Also, the support should not come into contact with the polycarbonate sheathing.

A strong support system will not interfere when a person moves around the greenhouse. It is necessary if the length of the greenhouse is more than 4 meters. If the length exceeds these parameters, then supports are installed every 4 meters.

Corner supports are made of 100x100 mm timber, intermediate supports are made of 50x100 mm boards.

Construction of walls and thermal insulation

The pillars will be covered with boards on both sides, and insulation will be placed in the interior space.

To save money, you can take round timber Ø 120–150 mm, hewn to 100 mm. The walls are covered with slabs.

To insulate walls, use slag, sawdust or fine expanded clay. Added to sawdust quicklime as protection against small rodents.

When choosing timber and boards, it is necessary to take into account that this structure will be used throughout the year, so the lumber must be of high quality.

• For the construction of supports and other parts of the frame, it is recommended to purchase pine boards and timber (rounded or glued). This is the most accessible, durable and cost-effective material for the construction of greenhouses in our region.

You can also choose larch or oak, but such lumber is quite expensive and therefore it is irrational to use them in this case.

Polycarbonate has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. But the more complex its structure, the greater the mechanical loads it can withstand (snow and wind).

When choosing polycarbonate, you need to know its thickness.

• For cladding the walls of a greenhouse, it is best to take sheets with a thickness of 6 to 25 mm, depending on the intended design.
• For roofing, polycarbonate with a thickness of 16 to 32 mm is recommended, since this part of the greenhouse will bear the heaviest load.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools

• Beam with a section of 100x100 mm;
• Board with a section of 50x100 mm;
• Croaker;
• Round timber Ø 120–150 mm;
• Boards for making shelving;
• Insulation;
• Foamed polyethylene (aluminum foil);
• Polycarbonate sheets;
• Self-tapping screws and thermal washers;
• Hardware;
• Screwdriver;
• Wood hacksaw or saw;

Step-by-step instructions for building an in-depth winter greenhouse with your own hands

We dig a pit 60 cm deep. Its length and width should be several centimeters larger than the perimeter of the future greenhouse. At the bottom we make markings for installing support pillars. We dig the supports to a depth of about 50 cm.

At a height of one meter from the ground, stretch the construction rope and check the evenness using a level. We fill the supports with soil and compact them thoroughly.

We level the floor and cover the walls with boards outside and inside, starting from the bottom. We fill the space between them with the selected insulation. This is how we cover the opposite two walls.

After we have sheathed the walls, we need to saw off the excess ends of the boards that extend beyond the pillars. At the corners of the structure inside, we nail 50x50 mm bars onto the boards. Next, we will attach the sheathing to them on the front and back of the wall. This is how we sew up all the walls of the greenhouse. But we nail the boards to the vertical beams.

We compact the insulation inside the walls, adding the required amount of expanded clay, sawdust or slag to the top. Then we sew up the top of the walls with boards.

We also cover the inner surface of the walls with insulation made from special foil. We place the insulation so that it extends slightly at the top of the walls, and bend it so that it can cover the boards covering the upper part of the walls.

We make the roof separately from the main structure, and then install it on the greenhouse. We manufacture all other roofing elements according to the diagrams indicated in the drawing.

We connect the rafter parts into half a tree, and nail the lintel so that the distance at the bottom is 3 meters 45 centimeters. Since the jumper is temporary, we must nail it so that it can then be dismantled. The nails should not be driven in completely, but should be left 10 mm from the head so that they can be easily removed.

We assemble the rafters and nail them to the support as shown in the drawing below.

After we have nailed the rafters to the support, we remove the jumpers. We install the ridge beam under the rafters and place the front posts measuring 88 cm under it. We nail the outer rafters (20 cm) to the ridge beam. To do this, we pre-drill holes in the rafters. Then we install a jumper between the rafters, and install flashings on the side rafters, the ridge beam and on the front posts as shown in the drawing.

Reference. Strips are called wooden strips that are designed to cover various cracks.

We attach two-layer thick polycarbonate to the roof frame using self-tapping screws with thermal washers. To do this, we drill holes in the sheets larger than the diameter of the screws themselves.

After attaching the polycarbonate, we need to install a ridge corner from galvanized sheet metal. We fasten it with a gasket for insulation. We do not attach polycarbonate to the side ends of the roof until we have secured the roof to the main structure.

We install the roof on the walls and secure it with 4 metal brackets. They can be made from twenty-centimeter long nails. Then we install the side parts of the roof from polycarbonate triangles.

We install an insulated thick wooden door(thickness not less than 5 cm).

After this, you can install wooden racks and shelves inside the greenhouse for future seedlings. They are installed on the sides of the walls at a distance of approximately 60 cm from the floor. A layer of earth is poured on them or boxes with soil are placed.

Heating selection

The choice of heating system depends on the size of the room. For winter greenhouses with an area of ​​more than 15 square meters. meters, stove heating is suitable. Large areas are usually heated with biofuel, electric heaters or a water loop.

Stove heating is an affordable and economical option for a greenhouse. In this case, a stove is installed in the room, which is heated with wood, coal, briquettes, pallets or gas. But since the walls of the oven become very hot, plants should not be planted near it.

Water heating requires a water heating boiler, pipes and a tank. The pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 40 cm or placed immediately under the shelves.

Electric heating can be of three types: air, cable and infrared. Cable is a “warm floor” system, air is installed using fan heaters, and infrared is produced by special heating devices that are mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.

Biofuel heating is the most cost-effective heating option. Here, the indoor air is warmed due to the heat generated during the decomposition of various organic substances.

The most used biomaterials are:

• Horse manure - capable of maintaining a temperature of 33 to 38°C for 2–3 months;
• Cow dung - can keep 20°C for about 3.5 months;
• Rotten tree bark - keeps 25°C for about 4 months;
• Sawdust - maintain 20°C for only 2 weeks;
• Straw - can maintain a temperature of 45°C for up to 10 days.

Biofuel is placed in the ground under the top layer of fertile soil. When choosing a fuel type, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level, since it significantly affects the quality of the soil. Cow dung is considered the best as its acidity level is 6-7 pH. A more acidic environment is created by bark and sawdust, and an alkaline environment is created by horse manure. Biofuel after its use can be reused as humus.

The type of heating is selected individually for each specific case, based on parameters such as the climate of the region, planned expenses and type of plants.

• Before starting construction of the greenhouse, everything wooden boards and the timber must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic agents.
• Before installing the supports, after treating them with protective agents, the lower parts must be tightly wrapped with roofing material and secured with a stapler.
• It is also necessary to protect the external walls by securing roofing felt to them. And only then sprinkle them with soil.
• The roof frame, after applying a protective coating and primer, is covered with white paint intended for outdoor work.
• During the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to choose energy-saving lamps to create artificial lighting. They help you use electricity more economically. Their number and location depend on the dimensions of the internal space of the greenhouse.

Video: how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

If, when constructing a winter greenhouse, you strictly observe all technical standards and follow the drawn up diagrams and drawings, then such a design will delight you and your loved ones with excellent harvests of vegetables, berries and fresh herbs for decades.

If you want to diversify your personal diet, and, moreover, please your family with real natural vitamins before the next seasonal harvest appears, and with the right approach, even deliver fresh berries and vegetables to the table throughout the year, it is optimal to purchase a greenhouse or greenhouse from us, and if you have With certain skills and free time, you can build a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself. How to make a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself?

Of course, before you get down to business, you should think through the various parameters and nuances of the potential process, and thoroughly understand the question of how to create a greenhouse with your own hands:

• you need to decide how much area of ​​the site can be free;
• solve the issue of the functionality of the design, that is, will the greenhouse be relevant throughout the year or will it be used only in the spring. The year-round option requires a lot of effort and materials, because you will have to additionally provide heating, lighting, water and equip high-quality ventilation;
• then the type of structure and the materials from which it will be built are determined.

In order not to make a mistake in this case, it is better to consider the variations of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses

Nowadays there are many modifications of greenhouses and greenhouses, and based on the general principle of their arrangement, craftsmen create personal options, sometimes individual details for a given agricultural structure. Greenhouses are usually divided according to different criteria, for example, according to the forms and materials of release, stationarity, and also the time of construction.

Design features of greenhouses and greenhouses

The frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is usually made of boards, and the useful volume is formed thanks to a lid in the form of glazed frames; they can be opened if necessary. This solution is optimal for growing seedlings and herbs, so that all this appears on the table as early as possible.

A temporary type of greenhouse, installed only for the period from spring to summer, is considered to be a combination of a wooden frame, plastic film, and fiberglass reinforcement. This solution will last for quite a long time if you disassemble the structure into parts in winter and store everything indoors. As a result, you will simply replace the film with a new canvas; it is not difficult and not expensive.

Some craftsmen install a greenhouse in a large old barrel; it is also used in the spring, but it is not necessary to remove it from the site in winter, because the structure can serve as a flower bed, or even an open bed.

The next solution requires forced heating, and is used immediately after the snow has melted. The structure is made of boards, metal-plastic reinforcement, covered with plastic film, and in order to look after the plants, you can go right inside.

A permanent greenhouse is equipped with various necessary parts and a certain microclimate is created inside it, which guarantees the operation of the building throughout the year. To do this, it is enough to make a not particularly deep foundation, then a brick base, and thoroughly insulate everything.

Such a greenhouse can even be attached to one of the walls of the living space, then it will be easier to connect the system to communications. It is convenient to care for plants throughout the year if you have access to the greenhouse from your home.

In order to save on heating in the winter season, you can install a kind of greenhouse-thermos; a pit is dug for it, the depth of which is 1.7-2 m, then everything is covered with a transparent roof. The solution is interesting, but the main thing is to take care of the ventilation system. Of course, this option is labor-intensive in its own way, but the resulting design guarantees savings in energy costs.

What should the roof shape be?

Before you make a greenhouse or a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to determine its shape, do not forget that you will also need to install a roof, and this is an effective detail in growing plants. The most popular solutions:

• gable roof, greenhouses of this type are in demand, because they are really spacious and comfortable to be in, moreover, both for plants and gardeners. With proper design, installation and choice of material, the room will be illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. Greenhouses of this type are equipped as winter gardens, planting them not so much with vegetables, but with exotic plants. Of course, this option will be realized only when the proper conditions are organized, there are reliable heating systems, lighting and irrigation;

• arched roof, this solution for an arched greenhouse is extremely easy to install when compared with its gable counterpart. The bottom line is that a form covered with polycarbonate, or, alternatively, with plastic film, ideally diffuses sunlight throughout the room, so the plants will receive maximum natural heat. Another important point in this case is that due to the arched shape, no precipitation in the form of snow remains on the roof, that is, it will not be deformed or damaged due to the increased load in the winter season;

• a pitched roof is ideal for greenhouses, which have one wall adjacent to a massive building, for example, a house, or even a large stone fence, always on the south side. You can really save money on the construction of this greenhouse, because one of its sides will be a finished wall, with the base itself attached to it. In addition to all that has been said, it will be extremely easy to carry out communications into the greenhouse. When designing a greenhouse with a pitched roof, you should choose the slope of the slope correctly, this is the only way snow will not lie on the surface of the roof, because the increased load will only damage the coating.

Basic material for greenhouse covering

When making a greenhouse at home, you need to understand that certain greenhouse designs require different materials, but usually they are united by one feature - the material for covering the walls, as well as the roof, must be transparent, transmitting a sufficient amount of light.

The table below contains information about the current physical, as well as technological, and, moreover, performance indicators of the three most popular materials. Namely polycarbonate, polyethylene film, and also classic silicate glass.

Technical and operational parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Difficulty of installation and weight	Light weight, self-supporting material. It makes it possible to reduce the number of frame parts and even completely abandon the foundation	Glass is a heavy material, therefore, if it is chosen for coating, the building must have a strong frame and a reliable foundation (foundation)	A very light material that needs to be securely fastened to the frame.
Durability	The practice-proven operational period of the coating is about 20-25 years, the manufacturer provides a guarantee for 10 years of its service. Polycarbonate, due to its rigidity, is itself an element of the load-bearing structure. Once secured, it does not cause deformation or distortion.	The material is durable if protected from the mechanical effects of heavy loads (snow and hail).	The service life of the film is very short, at best - 2-3 years, since it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
Noise insulation	The material, thanks to its cellular structure, dampens wind noise well.	If the installation is poor, the wind can penetrate into the greenhouse, and the glass can make ringing or rattling noises.	It creates almost no sound insulation, and in strong winds it rustles in the wind.
Appearance	Aesthetic and modern appearance material creates a greenhouse even to a certain extent decorative element suburban area	The glass has a fairly neat appearance if installed according to all the rules.	The material looks neat only in the first year after it is fixed, then the film becomes cloudy and collapses, especially if it is left on the frame for the winter.
Safety	Polycarbonate is safe and does not break when dropped. It is 200 times stronger and at the same time 15 times lighter than fragile and quite heavy glass.	Glass shards are very dangerous if they fall into the soil, as they can cause serious injury. Therefore, for safety reasons, glass installation must be carried out in strict compliance with all safety rules.	From the point of view of causing injuries, it is completely safe.
Care	Dust is practically invisible on the surface of the material, and if it is heavily soiled, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.	Raindrops can linger on the surface of the glass, and then, when dry, they leave cloudy marks. To wash off these stains from the surface, you will have to make a lot of effort.	It is not recommended to wash the film, as cloudy stains will remain on it, which will prevent the penetration of light.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate perfectly insulates the room. Droplets formed as a result of condensation of rising evaporation flow down the walls of the greenhouse and do not fall on the plants or on the gardener’s head. The material transmits and diffuses sunlight very well. The heat generated by plants and soil does not escape through the greenhouse coverings, and therefore the necessary Greenhouse effect.	Glass does not provide the same high thermal insulation as polycarbonate, so the greenhouse effect is significantly reduced. The material transmits light well, but does not scatter it, and low-quality glass often begins to act like a lens, which is undesirable for plant leaves.	The new dense film creates good thermal insulation, but after working for one season, it becomes thinner and cloudy, so it loses its ability to completely retain heat and transmit light.

Taking into account the indicated parameters, it is possible to determine the best material for a particular greenhouse or greenhouse, which will be more consistent with their design.

Careful preparation for the construction of a greenhouse, its placement on the site

In order for the planting in the greenhouse to receive the light it needs for development, and to receive it throughout the day, the structure should be correctly distributed and oriented on the site. The final harvest largely depends on how long the beds are illuminated with natural light. For this reason, it is customary to install greenhouses in open space, alternatively with a transparent plane to the south.

Having decided on the type of greenhouse or greenhouse, and having found the optimal place for it on the site, plus, having distributed personal forces and capabilities, you can proceed to drawing up a sketch, and also a small drawing.

Designing a greenhouse or greenhouse

It is not at all necessary to draw every detail using a ruler, given the strict rules of drawing art. If you are the owner and want to do everything on your own, the project is intended for you and your assistants; you can simply draw a greenhouse by hand in a projection in which you can see all sides of the building, then indicate the dimensions of the main parts on them. Marking is usually done using rope and pegs; they are simply driven in around the perimeter of the potential pit.

What do you need to know about the pit and foundation?

If you have chosen a thermos greenhouse that will function throughout the year, then before digging a pit, it is best to carefully remove the top fertile layer of soil from the area. This soil is transferred to an individual pile, then it will be placed in the beds of the greenhouse. When deepening a pit, you suddenly come across layers of clay located under the fertile base; it is also better to put it aside, separately from the mixed soil.

Clay will pay off when adobe bricks are produced; they will be used to insulate the greenhouse. The depth of the pit should reach at least 1.7 m, but most often it is deepened to 2 m. It is at this distance that the natural geothermal heat that comes from the ground is preserved, thus the soil never freezes. Naturally, if a greenhouse is not equipped in the northern regions of the country, there is always permafrost there, even at shallow depths.

As for the width of the pit, the optimal figure is 2-5 m, and the length is determined based on desire. You cannot make the greenhouse wider, because it will quickly cool down, and heating and lighting will require a huge amount of electrical and other energy. Apart from the pit itself, a smooth descent is made, where as a result the entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed. If the place is marked for an all-season version of the greenhouse, it is optimal to dig a trench there for a strip foundation, up to 0.3 m wide and deep.

This is really enough, since the structure is not heavy, so there is minimal load on the foundation. In height, directly above the ground, it is optimal to raise the foundation by 0.2-0.5 m, although sometimes only 0.1 m is poured, the rest of the wall is built from brick if necessary. Then sand is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 0.5-0.7 m, then crushed stone in an identical layer. Afterwards, along the trench, with a small recess into it, formwork is installed, which is eventually filled with concrete mortar. You should make sure that the concrete lies tightly and there is no air in it; to avoid problems, it is optimal to carry out bayoneting by piercing the poured mortar with a bayonet shovel.

Sometimes it happens that support posts made of metal pipes, other parts of the greenhouse or greenhouse will eventually be attached to them. It is possible that the basis for the greenhouse can be a wooden frame made of timber; it is treated with an antiseptic and installed on a sand cushion.

Installation of greenhouses

Everything is clear with the base, you can move on to installing the option you like.

Greenhouse or greenhouse on a wooden frame

A greenhouse that does not require a concrete foundation, where the base is a strong wooden frame, is installed without any particular difficulties:

A base box made of timber, with a cross-section of 20x15 cm, is laid on a smooth, prepared platform, covered with sand. The base should be in close contact with the surface of the earth over the entire area. For this reason, if, when laying the frame, a gap appears between it and the surface, it is better to seal it with a stone lining. It is imperative to level the frame, otherwise the greenhouse will be uneven and its operation will be unstable.

After you have leveled the box, according to it internal corners You need to drive pieces of reinforcement into the ground, the length of which is 0.7 m; this measure is important in order to fix the base in one place.

The next stage is driving in reinforcement along the long side of the box, moreover, 0.7-0.8 m should go into the ground, and 0.6-0.7 m should remain on the surface. The reinforcement should be at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from each other, moreover, opposite similar rods installed on the other side of the box, since this is the basis for securing the pipes.

Pre-prepared metal-plastic pipes of the required length should be placed on the surface part of the reinforcement. A kind of arcade is formed, which will serve as the basis for a transparent coating.

To ensure that the pipes stay tightly in one place, it is better to strengthen them with metal loops that are screwed to the box with self-tapping screws.

If the structure is voluminous, it is better to strengthen it well at the end sides; they should stand rigidly. This frame not only guarantees rigidity, but also forms the doorway.

To do this, you need to place the bars vertically, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm, then fasten everything in several places with horizontal crossbars. Sometimes, assuming that transverse fastenings are indispensable, pipes for arches are connected with cross adapters, and horizontal sections of pipes are installed in them.

Another option for imparting full rigidity to the structure is to fasten the arcade at the top of the vault with a single pipe.

Fastening can be done with wire or plastic clamps, construction tape or “ties”.

The frame, which is formed from pipes, must be covered with thick polyethylene film, it is laid out with an overlap of 0.2-0.25 m. In the lower part, the film is attached with construction staples and a stapler to a wooden box. Initially, the film is well stretched over the arcade, then attached to the end sides; at the doors, the material is folded into the greenhouse.

The door itself should be light, but be a rigid structure. It is usually created from a 0.5 x 0.3 m block, plus to prevent deformation, a pair of slats are attached diagonally. Then the resulting fabric is covered with plastic film. It is customary to hang the door on a previously prepared opening using hinges. Window openings are installed exactly like this part; they are located almost under the ceiling, on the opposite side of the door. This will ensure natural flowing air circulation.

Features of a thermos greenhouse

Construction of foundations for walls

After the pit for the greenhouse is ready, a strip foundation is created along its perimeter. To do this, a trench must be dug, then various actions are carried out, identical to those described earlier, where we were talking about the foundation for a winter greenhouse.

When the foundation is completely ready, the walls begin to be laid; we must not forget about installing one or two ventilation pipes. They are installed in the lower part of the end side of the building, opposite front door, at a height of 0.5 m from the floor.

After installing the roof, it is customary to raise the pipes to a height directly above the ground, at least 1 m.

Proper wall laying

The walls are usually laid from adobe, foam concrete blocks, sometimes from permanent formwork made from polystyrene foam blocks; their cavities must be filled with cement mortar. If the latter option is the most relevant, you can immediately get insulated walls, but in this case it is valuable to separate the structure from the ground with plastic film. As soon as the stone walls are erected, the gap between the soil and the masonry should be sealed with clay, while compacting it well. The diagram of the greenhouse-thermos is clear in the lower figure.

The walls need to be raised from the foundation above the ground by at least 0.5-0.6 m. If permanent formwork was not used for them, then everything should be optimally insulated to the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the regional climatic conditions where the greenhouse is being built.

The insulation can be installed with outside walls, that is, between it and the ground. For this reason, the gap between them will have to be widened, then the insulation will have to be separated from the ground using a waterproof film. When polystyrene foam acts as insulation, it will rise above the ground surface, in particular, from the outside of the building, while it is important to waterproof everything, then seal it with the outside decorative coating. It is optimal if it turns out to be a material that does not rot when moisture comes into contact with it. For example, a plastic lining will do.

Closing the insulation can be done using another method, for example, covering the entire outside with expanded clay and covering it on top roofing material. In this case, corrugated sheeting is justified; it is attached below the polycarbonate, or even glazing. In this case, polyethylene film for covering the roof will pay off.

Frame installation

The next stage will be the installation of a frame to cover the walls, and also the ceiling, with polycarbonate, because its installation is simple and safe.

Initially, the bars are laid and secured with anchors on the walls that are raised from the pit; their cross-sectional size is literally 10-15 cm.

The rafters, as well as the ridge beams, should have a similar cross-sectional size as the beams mounted on the walls. A sparse sheathing is attached to the rafters, literally 2-3 bars per slope. In this case, it is needed to guarantee the rigidity of the structure. Then polycarbonate sheets are attached to the sheathing. They are attached with certain self-tapping screws with a large head, in other words, a press washer, and also a rubber gasket.

Upon completion of the installation of the roof covering, the end walls of the greenhouse are finished with polycarbonate, then the finished door is installed. It’s great if it has a glazed part. In addition to all this, the upper part of the ventilation, a kind of hole, is installed almost under the roof itself, and a pipe is attached there.

How to strengthen the structure?

It is important to emphasize what needs to be left open for sunlight that section of the roof that faces the south side, because the sun spends more time there during the day. Another roof slope from the inside of the greenhouse is covered with foil insulation, which will reflect the light falling on it through the transparent part of the roof. For this purpose, it is optimal to use foamed polyethylene, the thickness of which is 5 mm, with a foil part.

Fastening occurs to the roof rafters thanks to self-tapping screws with a wide head. At the junction, the insulation must be folded onto the wall. In a similar way, it is customary to insulate the walls of a greenhouse; the material is fastened on vertical stone planes with liquid nails, or even a sheathing of thin slats is installed on the wall, plus polyethylene foam is secured with self-tapping screws.

The purpose of the foil coating is not simply to reflect light into the space, but also to conserve carbon dioxide, heat and moisture, which are vital during the photosynthesis that occurs in plants.

How to organize heating in a greenhouse?

To prevent heat from escaping outside the greenhouse or greenhouse for a long time, it is customary to install doors on the ventilation openings. The room can be heated in different ways, for example, by an electrical system " warm house", then convectors and oven long burning. And if the greenhouse is located near the house, it is possible to install water heating directly from a gas boiler into it.

If a “warm floor” system is installed, then before placing it, you need to prepare the bottom of the greenhouse, because energy can be wasted in the ground. The system should be installed under the beds, although if necessary it can be placed under the paths between them.

Preparation takes place in stages:

• a heat-insulating sheet is applied to the ground; it’s good if it contains foil;
• be sure to pour a layer of sand about 5 cm thick;
• a reinforcing mesh is placed on top, the cell size of which is 3x3 cm;
• then the heating cable is fixed;
• it is covered with a 5 cm sand cushion;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid again;
• 30-40 cm of soil is placed on it.

Each layer is laid in formed beds, with bricks or boards protruding as sides. The beds are usually arranged along the walls, but if the greenhouse or greenhouse is wide, then an additional line is installed in the middle. It is good to create the beds at a slight angle, so the soil surface will be slightly turned towards the transparent roof slope on the south side. Quite often lately convectors have been installed in greenhouses for heating.

They really have many advantages that are ideal directly for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• They dry the air minimally, compared to other heaters, because they are designed in such a way that they create artificial circulation of warm air;
• easy to install, just hang the convector on a bracket mounted on the wall, plug it into a power outlet, and set the temperature level on the regulator;
• I’m pleased that there is an automatic mode for turning the heater on and off, taking into account the selected temperature, this saves energy;
• The device is small, with an aesthetically modern look.

Before purchasing a convector for heating a large space, it is better to look at the characteristics of the device, take into account the power, then it will become clear how many heaters are needed for your area. Another heating solution is a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit.

To install such a system, you will have to do a lot of work:

• First, the boiler is installed, its installation is carried out directly in the greenhouse, or even in the adjacent room;
• you need to build a chimney that can be raised to a height of at least 5 m;
• for the pipe to pass through the hole equipped for it, it is better to isolate the combustible materials of the greenhouse from the high temperature during the heating of the boiler;
• it is important to calculate the correct slope of the circuit pipes, then install supply and return pipes for the coolant, most importantly, correctly distributing the radiators;
• the system needs to be filled with water, then a temperature sensor must be installed directly in the greenhouse.

The installation of the described system is probably really complicated in comparison with other analogues, in particular, if we draw a parallel with the converter heating system.

When heating the greenhouse, it is important to note that for normal development and growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at +25...+30 degrees, and the soil temperature should reach +20...+25 degrees. Moreover, it is important to maintain a normal level of humidity in the room.

What will a greenhouse or greenhouse look like on a foundation?

A greenhouse mounted on a strip foundation will easily function throughout the year if the necessary conditions are there.

Accordingly, the assembly of the building is carried out extremely carefully, because it must be generally airtight, not counting, of course, the installed ventilation system. For the frame, it is optimal to prefer wood, since it conducts cold minimally, in comparison with a metal profile, it is guaranteed to create “cold bridges.”

The frame for this version of the greenhouse is installed in stages:

• on adobe or stone, plastered walls that are 0.5-0.7 m above the ground, it is laid waterproofing material, basically, classic roofing felt;
• thick wooden beams are attached to it with anchors, their width depends on the walls, and their height ranges from 5 to 15 cm;
• It is better to seal the gaps between walls and beams, or even metal profiles, with polyurethane foam;
• further work depends on what material will be the main one in the greenhouse, it may be a ready-made metal-plastic frame, or the foundation of a metal or wooden frame;
• then double- or triple-glazed windows are installed in metal-plastic frames, wooden frames with glass or double-glazed windows are installed in a wooden frame, polycarbonate is usually attached to a metal analogue.

The foundation, then the floor and the lower level of the greenhouse wall must be insulated. For this reason, in this case, it is better to prefer a “warm floor”, its structure is described above, and in addition you need to install high-quality converter heating. It will maintain the temperature in the room.

If the greenhouse is located in a cold region where there is a lot of snow in winter, then when clearing the yard of snowdrifts, it is better to pile the snow right next to the walls; it will serve as insulation and will make it possible to save on heating costs in the winter. For walls, it is better to prefer thick glass, about 5-7 mm, or even cellular polycarbonate, 10-15 mm. The honeycomb material has an air gap between the main planes, all of which works like insulation.

Lighting organization

Any greenhouse that is used in winter must be additionally illuminated, thus, the room will appear in a spring state, due to the fact that the length of daylight hours, as well as the intensity of winter solar radiation, will be really small.

In order to save energy in the form of lighting fixtures, it is possible to use lamps with LEDs. They are sometimes of different shapes, but are located only at the highest point of the ceiling. Naturally, if desired, it is possible to install classic lamps; they are mounted at the junction of the roof and walls, or, alternatively, high up directly on the walls.

To adjust the lighting hourly, it is possible to install a control unit with a specific timer, set on it the time when the light in the greenhouse needs to be turned on and off. The described system will make it possible to save energy and create extremely comfortable conditions for plants.

If a greenhouse or hotbed is needed only for the spring-summer period, it is not difficult to justify it, because no special insulation conditions or lighting are required. The winter option, in turn, is extremely complex, especially in calculations and construction, and in everyday use in general. Typically, these complexes are arranged by those people who professionally grow flowers and vegetables, and some exotic plants. Thus, they simply cannot do without a comfortable room with a special microclimate. All these maintenance costs will pay off over time when the sale of plants or fruits begins.

Many summer residents would like to grow fresh vegetables all year round. It is possible to come to country house even in winter. The building is heated, with all communications. For vegetables, if you want to grow them in winter and spring, you will also need a warm house. A year-round heated greenhouse can be equipped with your own hands.

This is the most important thing to start with – choose the right place. By 30%, the location will determine the efficiency of the greenhouse.

Table. Options for choosing a location for a greenhouse

Parameter	Description
Daylight	Of course, in a stationary year-round greenhouse you will have to provide additional artificial lighting, but why not use nature’s capabilities 100%? Plants should be provided with the maximum amount of daylight. By placing the greenhouse structure in a west to east direction in an open area, you will receive maximum sun for the plants.
Wind	Cold winds can not only penetrate into the structure through any even small cracks, but also, acting from the outside, reduce its temperature by 2-5 degrees. For young seedlings, such a difference can be disastrous. Therefore, when installing a greenhouse, take care of its additional protection from the wind.
Water	Ideally, a year-round greenhouse has an automatic watering system. But if there is none, hydraulic communications should be located close for convenient and prompt water intake and irrigation. Water temperature, especially in winter, also matters. Watering seedlings with cold water is unacceptable.
Approaches	Few people pay attention to this parameter. However, the approach to the greenhouse should be wide and comfortable. This will not only facilitate its construction, but also make its operation comfortable and efficient.

Selection of materials

What to build from? There are many options. You need to choose a material so that the structure will last a long time, be durable, airtight, and economical. In this regard, the old film and glass classic buildings, equipped with frame structures using wood, are finally a thing of the past.

Why are film, glass and wood not suitable?

Greenhouse made of wood and glass - photo

1. Even a heavy-duty film can tear and heat will leak.
2. Over time, cracks will inevitably form in the frames and between them, through which heat will also escape.
3. Glass breaks and in one layer has low heat transfer.

What materials to choose for a year-round greenhouse?

• The frame structure can be used when installing metal-plastic frames, provided they are double-glazed.
• The walls of the greenhouse can be made of polycarbonate on a metal base.
• For a year-round greenhouse, a brick building is suitable.

Reliability, long term operation, protection of growing crops - these are the main parameters by which greenhouse building materials are selected.

Assembling a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate

Let's look at the polycarbonate structure, the features of its assembly and the tools and additional materials required for this.

Why is polycarbonate good?

This modern material has many positive performance qualities.

• It has excellent thermal insulation properties.
• It has a surprisingly flexible structure - it bends easily without breaking, which allows the installation of even arched structures.
• This new material is 16 times lighter than the thinnest glass.

In polycarbonate buildings, profile pipes act as a frame. In addition to them you will need:

• welding machine;
• polycarbonate sheets;
• bolts and sealant.

Assembly can be completed in a few hours, according to the instructions that come with the finished greenhouse.

Advice! Not all ready-made structures have transoms, but it is better to provide them; the possibility of ventilation will protect the plants from overheating.

The frame is assembled with bolts. The sheets are inserted into the frame. Don't forget to slope the roof (an angle of 35 degrees is enough) to protect against snow accumulation. Places of strips with open honeycombs on polycarbonate are treated with sealant to minimize heat loss.

Features of a metal-plastic greenhouse

Do-it-yourself metal-plastic structures are not the easiest thing to do. It will be the most durable from specialists, so it is better to make a custom-made greenhouse frame in a construction company that specializes in the manufacture of such products. Plus, the frame will need double glazing, which is also best left to specialists.

As a result, the total cost of such a year-round greenhouse will not be cheap. But this is the most realistic opportunity to grow herbs and vegetables all year round.

Advice! When installing a metal-plastic glazed greenhouse, it is recommended to make one wall (northern) not from glass and insulate it.

The roof of such a greenhouse tilts 30 degrees. It is preferable to choose a single-pitch configuration.

Features of a brick greenhouse

A brick greenhouse, or capital greenhouse as it is also called, is a real “home” for plants, where life is possible all year round. This is not even a greenhouse anymore, but a real greenhouse in which you can grow not only vegetables, but also various exotic plants. Until now, despite the new modern materials, such as metal-plastic and cellular polycarbonate, the brick version of a permanent greenhouse is considered the most reliable, proven, optimal, and effective.

How to build a greenhouse out of brick

You can build it yourself if you have at least minimal skills in bricklaying and other construction work. But even without labor costs, a greenhouse will require substantial financial investment.

You will need:

• brick;
• mineral wool;
• cement, sand;
• roofing material;
• boards, timber for rafters;
• windows, doors, gutters.

The peculiarity of the construction is that, unlike all other types of greenhouses, the brick one is a “two-room apartment” for green pets. The first room is the vestibule. Usually it occupies an area of ​​2x2 m or 2x2.5 m. Garden supplies, fertilizers, soil and other necessary things are stored in the vestibule, and a heating system (boiler, stove) is installed.

The main greenhouse room can be any size that you are able to master.

The partition between two rooms is made permanent. A door is installed in it. The second door from the vestibule leads outside. In the greenhouse, not only windows are made, but also transoms.

Another feature is that for a permanent greenhouse you will have to pour a foundation, preferably a strip foundation.

Table. The main stages of building a brick greenhouse

Heating system

You can heat a greenhouse in different ways. From the simplest and most ancient - stove, to new and modern infrared equipment and heat guns. Each system has its own disadvantages and advantages.

Table. Characteristics of greenhouse heating systems

Heating type	Characteristics
	Used in permanent buildings. The simplest and least expensive method. Does not require complex structures. The stove is installed in the vestibule. The chimney is along the perimeter of the greenhouse room. For arrangement stove heating ventilation is required. The disadvantages are uneven heat supply, the need for constant monitoring, strong heating of the stove surface, fire hazard. The walls of a gas-generating solid fuel stove do not heat up.
	Can be installed in a greenhouse made of any material. Considered the safest. You will need a tank with a boiler, a pump, pipes, water, and electricity. The water is heated by electricity, distributed throughout the system using a pump, cools down and returns to the boiler. This method provides not only an optimal, uniform thermal regime, but also the necessary humidity. But only specialists can install such a system. Operation will also require serious material costs.
	Alternative to water. You will need gas heaters and burners, as well as pipes evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse. Gas is burned and heat is distributed into the room. There are several disadvantages, the main one being the need for constant monitoring to avoid gas leaks. Additional ventilation will also be required. This option is more economical than water, heating is carried out evenly, the room heats up faster.
	The most popular and sought after type. Can be used in all greenhouses. There are many devices, including: convector batteries, cables, guns, heating mats. Most systems are equipped with sensors and it is possible to adjust modes.
	You should not even try to install the system yourself - it is installed only by professionals at the time of assembling the greenhouse structure. The heating is excellent, uniform and fast. Condensation does not accumulate (which happens in winter when using all other systems). But there is a possibility of air drying, so it is recommended to install humidifiers in parallel.

What vegetables are grown in a greenhouse all year round?

In a heated greenhouse you can grow absolutely any vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers and even exotic plants. But if there is only one greenhouse on the site, and you give preference to vegetables, you will have to choose up to three vegetable crops and the same number of green ones.

Vegetables

Traditional vegetables for year-round cultivation usually include:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• Chinese cabbage;
• radish;
• salads.

Greenery

Spicy green crops are grown:

• dill;
• parsley;
• cilantro;
• basil;
• green onions.

Pepper - can be sown and grown along with any crops.

Tomatoes – grow well with onions and radishes.

Cucumbers - prefer radishes, lettuce and all green crops.

Greens – can grow with all crops.

Advice! It is not advisable to combine cucumbers with tomatoes and cabbage with parsley in neighboring crops.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

The time for planting seedlings that have grown in rooms to a permanent place of growth in a capital heated greenhouse depends on the sowing period you choose. There are certain rules for successful planting of seedlings.

1. The seedlings are ready for planting when they have at least 7-8 true leaves (pepper has at least 12). The bushes are strong, stable, not elongated; flower buds may begin to form in peppers and tomatoes. Leaf color is intense green.

   

2. Before planting, seedlings need to be hardened two weeks in advance - taken outside for several hours, gradually increasing the time.
3. Greenhouse soil is prepared in advance - filled with humus, a 1 m² bucket (not manure!) and minerals (potassium and phosphorus - 40 g each, nitrogen - 30 g/m²). The soil is dug up, loosened, and broken into holes.

   

   

   

4. The holes are watered with two liters of water each. The seedlings are also well watered two hours before planting.

   

5. The seedling is carefully removed from the seedling container using a planting scoop, along with the root soil. If a root that is too long sticks out from the soil clod, you can pinch it off by a third.
6. The seedling is lowered into the hole, held with one hand, and the space between the walls and the lump is filled with the other.
7. The soil is compacted around the stem and watered again. For plants that will be tied up (tomatoes, cucumbers, some varieties of peppers), it is immediately recommended to install pegs or slatted trellises.

   

Caring for plants in a greenhouse

In a greenhouse, which works all year round to “produce” fresh vegetable products, the plants need especially careful care.

The first important condition is soil preparation. Vegetables grown out of season in a greenhouse will place increased demands, primarily on the soil. It should be light, fertile, with a high concentration of substances needed by plants.

The following components are required in greenhouse soil:

• manure;
• turf;
• peat;
• straw (sawdust);
• sand;
• carbohydrate-containing and nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

The second condition is feeding. Vegetables and herbs must be fed regularly throughout the entire growth and fruiting cycle.

The third important component of care is watering and humidity regime. Drip irrigation or a fine shower (for some crops) is preferable. If it is not possible to install an automatic watering system with regulation of the temperature of the supplied water, make sure that its temperature is not lower than the ambient temperature.

Heating is discussed in detail above. One has only to note that in the conditions of the middle zone, a year-round greenhouse will have to be heated at different rates for at least seven months a year.

An important maintenance measure is weed control and loosening the soil. Earthen crust is dangerous for all garden plants, but it is especially harmful to seedlings and seedlings in a greenhouse, where plants get less air than in open ground.

Loosening greenhouse soil, depending on the composition of the soil, often begins even before the emergence of seedlings (when sowing crops with seeds). If the seeds have not yet sprouted, but a crust has already formed, of course, it must be destroyed to make it easier for the seedlings to reach the surface. Loosening before germination is carried out between the rows, to a depth of no more than 5 cm, with a light ripper.

When the main crops sprout, or after seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, all loosening is combined with weeding and carried out after watering. The soil is loosened closer to the plant stem, but so as not to destroy the lateral roots.

Advice! Vegetable crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, are loosened immediately after planting seedlings deeply, up to 7 cm. As the lateral roots grow, the depth of loosening decreases and the distance from the stem increases.

Also, in a year-round greenhouse, it is necessary to pay special attention to the prevention of diseases of vegetable crops, take measures to treat emerging diseases, promptly remove remnants of vegetation, obsolete canes, stems, leaves, and after harvesting, while preparing the greenhouse for a new sowing cycle, carry out its disinfection.

Growing vegetables in a greenhouse will definitely bring excellent results if you follow all the rules for caring for seedlings and planting them in protected soil. The reward will be juicy and healthy fruits, vegetables and herbs from your own plot all year round.

Video - How to build a large winter greenhouse

Every gardener is attracted by beds with vegetables and other types of plants. And, probably, each of them dreams of greenhouses. In this article we will look at various options greenhouses, we will study the materials from which the greenhouse is made. Let's raise the question of whether it's better to build it yourself or buy a ready-made kit. So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands? Let's start looking.

Materials such as polycarbonate, glass, and polyethylene film are used to cover structures for growing plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is mainly made of metal profiles or wood, and polymer pipes can also be used.

Depending on the type of construction, greenhouse structures are of the following types: arched, gable and single-pitch. A greenhouse is most often installed as a free-standing structure, but an extension to an adjacent building can be made.
Greenhouses are divided into winter and summer. In most cases, a winter greenhouse is a greenhouse.

In order to grow seedlings for flowers or early vegetables, summer residents use a frame made of metal profiles, wood or metal-plastic pipes to build greenhouses. And depending on thickness preferences, cover with plastic film. To preserve the film for more than one season, it is recommended to remove it in the summer. The film does not need to be removed if it is made of reinforced film.

If an all-season greenhouse is installed at the dacha, then it must also be additionally equipped with systems such as microclimate control sensors, a heating system, irrigation, and ventilation must also be installed.

DIY arched summer greenhouse

Let's look at how this type of greenhouse is built. In order for this structure to be manufactured quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to prepare the material for it in advance. It is recommended to use a U-shaped metal profile. To do this, you first mark the shelves on the frame, and then bend them at your discretion. After that, you will need cling film, leftover corners, thick reinforcement, and an edged board.

To build a support for attaching a greenhouse or greenhouse, scraps from metal pipes are used. To do this, first mark the place where the building will be installed. After this, the pipe sections are driven into the ground, with a margin of approximately 30 cm above the ground.

There is not much difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. They differ from each other only in size. Greenhouses have a maximum height of one meter. Greenhouses can be of different sizes, depending on how and for what it will be used.

After the supports are installed, pre-bent metal elements are attached. To make the frame more durable, the arches are secured with longitudinal rigid material. A metal profile or reinforcing rod is usually used as such material. It is attached to each arch. Boards are laid along the entire greenhouse; they will serve as a boundary between the beds. Then the film is stretched onto the finished frame. It is recommended to additionally secure it with something heavy so that in a strong wind it will not be torn off the greenhouse.

Attached greenhouse and thermos greenhouse

If you have a limited amount of space at your dacha, it is logical to use an attached greenhouse. Since one side will be the side of the house, the temperature in the greenhouse will be much higher, and accordingly the plants will grow faster.

These types of greenhouses can also be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is recommended to install it on the southwestern or southern wall of the house. Thanks to this, a lot of daytime sunlight will enter the greenhouse and with it warmth.

Another advantage of an attached greenhouse is the ease of installing heating and electricity. The rest of the structure can be made of materials such as glass, polycarbonate or special film.

A distinctive feature of the greenhouse - thermos is that it is installed almost completely in the ground. First, a pit about two meters deep is dug. Then the foundation is made. After this, the walls are built. You can also choose the wall material. It is better to use wood, brick or foam blocks. As a result, only a small part of the roof will protrude above the ground. The roof can be made of the same materials as conventional above-ground greenhouses: polycarbonate, film or glass. To prevent snow from settling on the roof, it must be made gable.

In winter, the ground at such a depth does not freeze, so you don’t need to install additional equipment in the thermos greenhouse to keep the temperature at a constant level. If you cover your roof with a special reflective film, this will give you the opportunity to collect and transform solar heat.

Many summer residents believe that an arched greenhouse is unstable. And then some of them decide to build a frame out of wood. In order to build a wooden greenhouse, a number of conditions must be met. The durability of such a greenhouse will be ensured if it is made for it good foundation. To prevent rotting of the wooden frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

A wooden greenhouse is also chosen for the reason that almost anyone can build it without special skills. Woodworking is much easier than, for example, metalworking. When using metal as a frame, basic knowledge of metalworking and welding is required. To protect the greenhouse from freezing, it is recommended to use. This will be more reliable and additionally protected.

Making the foundation

The first step in building a greenhouse is making the foundation. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The depth is about 20 cm and the width is about 30 cm. Pegs are installed along the entire length of the trench, to which formwork boards are nailed. After this, a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of about 10 mm is installed in the formwork. It is believed that this particular diameter is well suited for making a frame. The frame parts are fastened with wire and then welded. When the frame is made, concrete is poured into the formwork along the entire perimeter of the trench.

To fill the entire void with concrete, you need to use a vibrator; if you don’t have one, you can make punctures in a spiral from the edges to the center to release air bubbles from the solution. The concrete mixture becomes strong after 3 weeks. However, if the outside temperature is high, it is recommended to place a film on top of the solution.

How to make a wood frame

If you lay roofing felt on top of the foundation, the wooden frame will last much longer. Next, the tree is tied. To make it you will need a beam of 10 by 20 cm section. His Bottom part attached with self-tapping screws to the foundation. Then all this is united by metal plates.

Then vertical posts are installed to the bottom frame along the entire perimeter at a distance of 75 cm from each other. The upper part of the vertical structure is fastened with wooden frame. For reliability, it is recommended to install spacers and struts.

A wooden greenhouse, like a thermos greenhouse, is covered with a gable roof. In winter, snow will not accumulate and the roof will not sag under its weight. A gable roof is easier to install. To attach the material (glass, polycarbonate or film), you will need rafters. They are quite easy to make yourself from wood. You will need a beam with a section of 10 by 4 or the same board. The structure is assembled on the ground, and then installed on top of the greenhouse.

First, a structure like the letter “A” is made from two beams. And only then identical circuits are gradually attached to it. Then they are all connected together with ridge boards. These boards are attached to both sides of the roof. The rafters are sheathed with sheathing onto which the roofing material is attached.

Roofing material

Why do many people make greenhouses themselves? Most will answer that it is much cheaper. And this is actually true. The advantage of making it yourself is that you are your own designer. Choose your own size, shape, material, type of greenhouse. You also do the internal filling of the greenhouse yourself, as is more convenient for you. And if you use ingenuity and engineering skills, you can make automatic watering and ventilation.

At self-construction you choose the material for making the greenhouse. Depending on the purposes for which the greenhouse is installed, the material is selected accordingly. In order to grow vegetables and seedlings, you can use film. Polycarbonate or glass is needed if you want a smart greenhouse. And in this case, vegetables and flowers will always be on your table.

Everyone knows that the harvest of vegetables and fruits is many times greater than the yield simply in the ground. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase. Therefore, making a greenhouse yourself from film and wood is a very cost-effective step.

Film is used as a material, since it does not require an additional foundation. The advantage of film is that it is transparent.

Let's look at each material in more detail.

List of tools: axe, hammer, level, welding, knife, screws, nails, cord. This is a basic list of tools, but others may be needed depending on the type of structure.

Greenhouse with a wooden frame, covered with film

First, we take the bars, pre-soaked with an antiseptic and dried. Section approximately 50 mm. The concrete base is made first. First, a trench is dug, sand is placed at the bottom and filled with water. After some time, the trench is filled with cement mortar. It is better to observe the following proportions by analogy: 10 buckets of crushed stone, 6 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of cement mortar.

Next, the racks are made. You need to make 6 of them. 4 pieces for the side parts, about 2 m high, and 2 for the doors. To make the bars correctly, they are placed on a flat surface, the necessary measurements are taken, and only then they are attached to the base with screws or corners with nails. Using a plumb line we measure the level.

Ridge beams are used at the top of the greenhouse. Fastened with nails. Then everything is covered with polyethylene. Cover with film with a small margin so that you can correct it later. Then the lath is fastened with nails to the beam.

DIY greenhouse with a metal frame

Metal arches with an approximate diameter of 30 mm are used as the base for such greenhouses. You can also take tarred timber, a metal corner or a sleeper, for example. Holes are drilled in the tree, 10 cm deep every 150 cm for arches.

The slats - purlins - are attached to the side. They are connected at the top by a ridge strip. The brackets are welded from the inside, slats are inserted into them and tightened with bolts.

Greenhouse with two frames

In such a greenhouse, the sides are wooden frames. To make them, a 3 by 4 rail is used. The height is usually from two meters. The width is about one and a half. The film is stretched over the frames in 2 layers and only then the frames are installed in a finished wooden frame, selected to the size of the frame.

Scheme of a gable greenhouse made of frames

The scheme is the same as for a conventional greenhouse with two frames. The only difference is that the rafters are attached to the top.

To do this, we take slats, one side is the ridge, the other is the top of the structure. After fastening, the excess slats are sawed off.

IN wooden beam make holes for fastening the frame with nails. Part of the frame will be the side walls of the greenhouse, and the rest will be installed on hinges, like doors.

The greenhouses that we have now considered are summer ones. Various vegetables, fruits, and flowers are grown in them during the warm months to provide solar warmth and light. There are also winter greenhouses, they have a more complex structure, but they also have more functions.

Gable winter greenhouse with greenhouse frames

In this design of a gable winter greenhouse, polyethylene or glass is used as side walls.

At approximately a height of 40 cm, a foundation is installed in a 40 by 40 section. Next comes the brickwork. The beams are placed on the brick, in which holes for the frames have already been made. The beams are pre-treated with resin.

Beams with a diameter of 10 cm will serve as rafters. They connect the ridge beam and the wall beam.

Then you can start decorating the interior of the greenhouse. For example, you can install shelving. To ensure air circulates well, leave a small hole between the rack and the wall. The areas between the frames are sheathed with slatted boards.

Single-pitched winter greenhouse made of greenhouse frames

In order for the corridor inside the greenhouse to be about 80 cm, you need to make a pit according to the following dimensions:

• depth 85 centimeters;
• length 11 meters;
• width 3.5 meters.

If the frame is wooden, then the lower part of the beam must be treated with an antiseptic. The installation of such a greenhouse is no different from a gable one. To ensure that the stove chimney is used as efficiently as possible, 10 frames are installed.

• The greenhouse must have ventilation.
• The entrance should be on the east or west side.
• Roofing felt and boards are used as materials for the ceiling.
• The entrance to the greenhouse must be additionally fenced.
• Upon completion of construction, metal materials must be coated with paint.

Those new to greenhouse construction may want to try making a lean-to greenhouse or greenhouse first. The main difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is that the ventilation of plants occurs due to the opening of part of the greenhouse. The greenhouse is easier to use; it can be disassembled and moved to another place at any time. You just need to keep in mind that short plants can be planted in a greenhouse. Most gardeners use a greenhouse to grow seedlings. Simply put, a greenhouse is a miniature greenhouse.

Single-pitched pit greenhouse made of film

Let's start with the size of the pit. The width is about one and a half meters, the depth is up to half a meter, the bottom is about half a meter. The logs are laid along the northern and southern walls. To prevent the frames from slipping, a groove is made on the south side or additional beams are nailed. Along the width of the greenhouse, frames with film with an area of ​​1 m by 1.5 m are placed. And depending on how many frames there are, this will be the length of the greenhouse. Welding can be used to connect frames.

Gable film greenhouse

First, the box is made. Dimensions:

• Height – 20 cm.
• Width – 1.6 meters.

Rafters are nailed to the sides every 3-5 cm. On top everything is connected by a beam, which also forms the ridge. The height will be about 75 cm. Every gardener can make such a miniature greenhouse. It is very fast and does not require large investments.

Rules for placing greenhouses and greenhouses

The location for installing a greenhouse or hotbed must be chosen correctly. There should be plenty of sunlight and no wind from the north. The best option there will be a small area on the southern part of your site.

You need to pay attention to the condition of your soil. If the soil contains a lot of clay or a lot of moisture in it, then such land cannot be used for a greenhouse or greenhouse. The best option would be soils that have been treated in advance against pests and diseases.

Let's look at how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands? Almost every site has a greenhouse or greenhouse. These designs can be purchased ready-made. In our article we will look at how you can make a greenhouse yourself, what materials you may need and, in general, types of structures.

Types of greenhouses

One of the main advantages of homemade greenhouses is that you are your own designer and can think through and choose the design you need.

But before you start building, you need to carefully consider a number of details.

1. Select material.
2. Consider the irrigation system.
3. Do you need a foundation?
4. Ventilation system.
5. Dimensions.
6. Heating system.
7. Frame type.
8. Interior decoration.
9. Working space.

Addition. Structures, depending on their features, can be wall-mounted or stationary.

Characteristics of different types of structures

Before building a greenhouse with your own hands, a mandatory step is choosing a construction model. If the greenhouse or hotbed is adjacent to the house, then it will be economical in space and heating costs.

Most use solar heat for heating.

There are polygon greenhouses. They are distinguished by their uniqueness and complexity in manufacturing. Accordingly, prices for such structures are higher. But you will have a beautifully decorated garden plot.

Sizes of structures

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to understand what size it will be. In this case, you will need to take into account the area of ​​the site and the size of the proposed space for the greenhouse.

Let's look at what you need to consider when choosing a size:

• If you plan to grow only seedlings, then you can use the smallest size.
• If the plant will be grown entirely in a greenhouse, then a more voluminous structure is needed.
• When choosing a size, you need to take into account that the larger the area, the higher the cost of heating.
• The height of the structure directly depends on the height of the owner of this greenhouse and on interior decoration(shelves).

Building a winter greenhouse: foundation

If the greenhouse or greenhouse is small in size, then a foundation is not necessary. However, many professionals in this field recommend using it during construction. Since the foundation protects the greenhouse from groundwater and dampness.

Types of supporting base for greenhouse structures:

• Wooden beams.
• Foam blocks.
• Brick.
• Concrete.

In most cases, homemade greenhouses are made from a wooden frame.

Greenhouse materials

An important quality of wood is its environmental friendliness and thermal insulation, which is very important for seedlings. A negative feature of using wood is its tendency to rot. Therefore, now they prefer to use galvanized steel as a frame.

Any beginner in this business will be able to independently assemble a metal frame. You just need to take into account that the thermal insulation may be deteriorated.

Building a winter greenhouse: materials for construction

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to select a material. When choosing it, you need to focus on such qualities as strength, light transmission, and good thermal insulation.

Materials such as wood, glass, polycarbonate, metal arcs, polyethylene pipes have all the above properties.

Consider the quality of materials:

Glass is environmentally friendly and transparent. Cons - it breaks easily and weighs a lot. And also in terms of price - this is not the most economical option. Glazing will require a lot of time.

Polycarbonate, like glass, is environmentally friendly. Retains heat well and is resistant to mechanical damage. This is a very important characteristic, since the structure will not collapse under the influence of hail and stones. Its strength compared to glass exceeds 100 times. It comes in two types: honeycombs and sheets. They differ from each other in structure and manufacturing process.

Cellular polycarbonate has greater light transmission, since its material and structure scatter light across the glass.

The sheet is similar in structure and characteristics to glass.

Winter structures are more complex in themselves, since during their construction it is necessary to think through heating and heat distribution systems. Many experienced gardeners recommend, or rather, believe that a biofuel-powered polycarbonate greenhouse is the most optimal for winter. When building a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can consider the option of connecting it to the heating system of the whole house. It will also be beneficial from an economic point of view.

What is biofuel?

• Household garbage.
• Compost.
• You can use manure.
• Horse manure is the most valuable fuel.

Advice. Horse manure is mixed with household waste - garbage and evenly distributed over the peat litter.

The main feature of this greenhouse is the huge savings on maintaining temperature - utilities. Plants can be grown all year round, even in the most severe and frosty winter. Excellent level of light penetration, which is not always the case in conventional greenhouses.

Main features of this greenhouse:

The main advantage is that starting from a depth of 2 meters, the soil maintains the same temperature constantly: in winter, in summer, in frosts, and in rains.

Note. There are slight changes depending on the groundwater level; the closer they are to the surface, the more noticeable the temperature fluctuations.

A good example is a well. In the well, both in summer and winter, the temperature is constant, above zero.

At a depth of approximately 1 meter, temperature changes are noticeable: in winter +5, and in summer up to +10.

The base of the greenhouse can be heated to such temperatures using a heated floor. And to maintain air and soil humidity, it is necessary to use drip irrigation.

Note. A thermos greenhouse can be built in just one season, without using any special equipment and without high costs.

Digging a pit. Land work for a greenhouse

Since the greenhouse goes into the ground, the main part of it, you need to dig a hole of at least two meters. Only then will the soil not freeze, but give off its heat.

The underground part can be as long as you like, but the width is limited - only 5 meters.

Note. You can make the width larger, but then the natural heating and reflective properties will be worse.

The shape can be any, the main thing is to orient it to the west-east side. One side will be thoroughly insulated with foam plastic or glass wool, and the second should be well illuminated by the sun.

The foundation will be poured along the edge or concrete blocks will be laid, so the edge must be well leveled.

Construction of the wall

When the foundation is completed, you can begin to lay out the walls. On the concrete base there will be a metal frame on which the thermal blocks will be attached.

• Best material for the roof it is polycarbonate.
• Installation takes place on a metal structure with lathing.
• It is necessary to thoroughly strengthen the attachment points.

How best to make thermal insulation and heating:

A special film is attached to the inside of the wall; it retains heat perfectly.

Advice. In regions with very cold climates, a foil-coated film and a double base layer can be used to retain heat; in relatively warm regions.

The main function of reflective insulation is to maintain positive temperatures and, as a consequence, humidity and carbon dioxide levels. That is, everything that is important for the normal growth of any plant.

Even inside the greenhouse, it is necessary to provide “heat accumulators”.
Note. “Heat accumulator” - this can be any container with water, for example, bottles; they heat up well and quickly and gradually cool down over time, maintaining the temperature.

The base will be heated using underfloor heating. When using it, it is very important to protect the wires from damage by garden tools and moisture. To protect against both aspects, you can lay it in concrete; an easier way is to cover it with a mesh - but this is only from garden tools.

Heating of the floor in a greenhouse is often done under tiles, and plants are planted in pots, tubs, and lawns.

Note. For plants, the main thing is to maintain the optimal temperature of 25-35 degrees Celsius and humidity level.

How to build a roof in a greenhouse with your own hands

When the walls are completely ready, you need to prepare the roof for the greenhouse. The best option for a 12 meter structure - polycarbonate.

It is necessary to provide when constructing a roof:

• Heat retention inside the greenhouse is achieved through the use of double polycarbonate (cellular) coating.
• To connect 2 polycarbonate sheets, each 4 mm thick, take a profile pipe gasket.
• The snow itself will not melt on such a double coating, so you need to use a thermal circuit; it will turn on and off using a timer.
• The use of double coating reduces heat loss during heating, but light transmittance is reduced by approximately 10%.
• We prepare the rafters in advance - we impregnate them with protective agents.
• The connection occurs in 1/2 of the tree, and the jumper is attached so that the length at the lowest point is up to 5 cm.
• The rafters prepared in advance will be the support, the lintels are removed, and a ridge beam is placed under them.
• The outer rafters are nailed to the ridge beam using ordinary 20 cm nails.

Once the roof is assembled, it can be painted; after the paint has completely dried, the polycarbonate is attached. For fastening you need to take wood screws. Therefore, an iron corner for the roof is attached along the beam, and a special gasket made of heat-insulating material is used.

The junctions between the polycarbonate and the roof parts must be well taped with adhesive tape. After all preparatory work you can mount the polycarbonate roof in place and secure it to the walls. Then you can move on to arranging the interior space.

Our main goal is to build a greenhouse for winter period and make heating in it. In this article we will consider the most economical ways to maintain heat and heating, and the choice of materials that best minimize losses.

The design must be solid, designed for long-term use, as inexpensive as possible, economical in terms of heating.

How can you achieve savings?

Let's divide the question into two parts. We have to:

• Build a structure that will absorb maximum heat on sunny days and release minimum heat due to radiation and concept.
• Choose the most inexpensive method of heating in winter (and not only) - taking into account how it will be done and how much operation will cost.

Construction

First, we sweep away greenhouses using film or made from wooden frames, with glass, in one or two layers. Why?

In the first option, you can forget about heat conservation in principle. Losses due to convection are very large; and this material is also too easy to accidentally damage. In winter, all these facts will definitely lead to the destruction of the crop. Such a greenhouse is inexpensive in terms of financial costs. But its thermal insulation properties are practically zero.

In the second option, there will also be a practically unsolvable issue - heat leakage through the holes between the glass and the frame. Wood can dry out or change shape when humidity changes. Also, due to the effects of snow and rain, the frames must be coated with protective compounds, for example, painted, every year.

What remains?

Can choose

• Metal-plastic greenhouses, with several layers of glazing.
• Greenhouses on metal structures with polycarbonate.
• Metal-plastic.

In this case, there are many ready-made structures and all we have to do is choose it and pay for the material and installation.

Basic principles to consider when designing

Considered by quantity solar energy, which can be obtained, the best option would be with a pitched roof facing south. In this case, the sun will almost constantly shine on it at almost a right angle.

The northern wall is being built opaque. It also needs to be insulated from the inside with foil insulation - foil inside. With such a construction, the heat and light entering the greenhouse will be reflected from the foil and hit the beds at right angles. Since from the physics course we know that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.

Attention: you cannot make a roof with a slope of less than thirty degrees. In winter, snow can accumulate, which is undesirable for obvious reasons.

What do we get? The advantages of this solution are durability, wear resistance and good thermal insulation. The main disadvantage is the amount that will have to be spent on purchasing such a greenhouse. The price of 1 square meter starts from 2,500 rubles; if you plan a large area, you will end up with a substantial amount.

Polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate gained popularity very quickly after its appearance, due to its combination useful properties. Even when used in one layer, good thermal insulation is provided due to the cavities inside. Air is one of the the best thermal insulators.

Polycarbonate is almost 15 times lighter than glass, which practically eliminates the question of structural strength.

This material is easy to bend and give the desired shape. Polycarbonate can be used together with an arch-shaped frame without any difficulties or problems. By the way, this design eliminates the problem of snow; the arch does not trap snow and it does not accumulate. Simple fastening, with self-tapping screws to a metal structure, and ease of processing.

The simplest recommendations are possible due to the characteristics of polycarbonate and the type of metal structure. The strongest frames are made from profile pipes. The arch is formed using a pipe bender, and the structure is assembled by welding. The cross-section of the pipe for the arch is 20*40 mm, the corner posts are made of pipes with a diameter of at least 40*40 mm.

Definitely needed ventilation windows, they will help plants survive sunny days. Greenhouse using prof. pipes, with a pitched roof - simply assembled with bolts. Slopes at the corner posts are needed only during the assembly of the structure; in the future, polycarbonate will provide rigidity.

Even cheaper and easier to manufacture is a galvanized profile, which is used when working with drywall, but it is not so resistant to lateral loads (in the wind). When using it, you need to make the roof slope 45 degrees; even minimal accumulations of snow are undesirable.

At the end, polycarbonate sheets with open honeycombs must be sealed using special strips or sealant. Thus, we will reduce heat loss due to convective flows inside the cells.

Heating

How to start heating inside the greenhouse yourself? Let's consider the most available options solutions for small greenhouses. We will only consider air heating, because the use of radiators, their installation, pipe routing, all this will not be cheap. And there is a high probability of freezing this system in winter.

Gas

Heating using a main gas pipeline, how to do it correctly? A simple solution is a convector; how many of them are needed will depend on the area of ​​the greenhouse. Thermostats that are used in the design of this device allow you to get results without having to worry about adjusting burners and other issues.

The combustion products will go out into the open air through the pipe, and air will flow through it to maintain combustion.

If the size of the greenhouse is large, you can install a gas boiler. The heat exchanger can be blown with a fan; if necessary, warm air is distributed using aluminum hoses. Thermal insulation, as when using a boiler to heat a house, is not needed, we have one room.

With the onset of cold weather, work in the garden and vegetable garden comes to an end. And summer residents have to leave their plots with regret. Despite the fact that growing fruits and vegetables only becomes interesting towards the end of the season. But if you build a heated greenhouse on your summer cottage, you can grow anything you want even in severe frosts in winter.

Construction type

First you need to choose the type of greenhouse, and only then begin calculations and construction. The choice options depend on the purpose of the site and its features, on the location. Avid gardeners recommend designs using polycarbonate as a material. This is the easiest and most popular option. Another good option is a thermos greenhouse. It is erected in late spring or summer, because it is necessary to have time to prepare the soil for planting. Polycarbonate structures can be made at any time of the year. This material is very popular because it has a number of useful qualities from the point of view of greenhouses.

With a small thickness, polycarbonate creates the necessary thermal insulation in winter. It has a honeycomb structure, and the honeycombs are filled with air, which has better thermal insulation properties.

The weight of polycarbonate is 15 times less than glass, so a reinforced frame is not needed. It is very easy to make an arched structure from this material; it bends easily.

Paperwork

If you have a greenhouse for the winter period on your own site and you do not want to create a large-scale production, and accordingly use the labor of hired workers and sell the products of a legal entity. persons do not need to prepare documents. To sell on the market, you only need a certificate stating that you grow them on your own plot.

The owner of a large greenhouse farm using hired labor, the harvest of which is sold through shops and in cafes and restaurants, needs to register a legal entity. You can also register as an individual entrepreneur or private agricultural enterprise. This will allow you to achieve tax benefits, although all this is difficult.

Where should we build?

The greenhouse must be placed so that most of the sun's rays reach it. It is necessary to ensure that shadows from houses, buildings and trees do not fall on it. The sides of the greenhouse should be oriented north and south. Also keep in mind that wind significantly increases the heat loss of the structure.

By placing the greenhouse in the wrong place, you will get the exact opposite effect from what you expected - in the form of high heating bills and poor growth of the vegetables and fruits you grow in it. When building a winter greenhouse with your own hands: covering materials, types of heating, location on the site and type of structure, you need to choose based on what plant crop you will grow. An important fact is financial capabilities that need to be taken into account.

Features of construction

Many amateur gardeners, when faced with this question for the first time, wonder what the differences are between an ordinary greenhouse and a winter greenhouse. But the differences between them are significant.

Before you start building a winter greenhouse, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with all the important points and its features. Temporary structures are assembled from separate frames. Since the weight of this structure is light, it does not require a foundation. Greenhouses using polycarbonate as a covering can be mounted on columns made of ordinary brick.

The winter greenhouse is a solid construction. It has electricity and heating. The rigid and heavy frame allows you not to worry about the loads arising from wind and snow. But for it it is necessary to make a solid foundation.

An ordinary greenhouse can be small in size. It all depends on how many and what crops you will grow in it. Growing vegetables in winter in most cases occurs for further sale, therefore the requirements for the greenhouse area are completely different, they start from tens of square meters.

The material for covering this structure can be absolutely anything. But the best, most affordable and reliable is polycarbonate.

Before you begin building a winter greenhouse, you need to consider the possibility of severe frosts and, as a consequence, the need for additional thermal insulation.

The location of the greenhouse must be chosen very carefully, because this is a capital building for more than one year. It’s good if it’s a flat area, well lit and without buildings nearby. You also need to take into account the humidity of the ground on which the building will be built; it should be within normal limits.

The foundation for the greenhouse can be made using a finely buried reinforced concrete strip. Since the foundation must be solid, not for one year, when pouring it, you need to do everything in accordance with the requirements.

When the base is ready, you can assemble the structure frame onto it. Factory-made structures are usually supplied with drawings and photographs that will greatly help during installation. Polycarbonate sheets are attached to the frame with rubber washers. To ensure a tight seal, their edges can be sealed with tape. To ensure the flow of fresh air into the greenhouses, several windows are made. If you have a desire to grow vegetables, but you don’t know how to build a winter greenhouse yourself, you need to contact specialists or buy a factory-made structure.

Heating type

The type of heating used must be selected based on the usable area of ​​the greenhouse. Small spaces can be provided with heat using a stove. If the areas are large, then you need to choose from:

• Water heating.
• Electric heating.
• Biofuels.

To use water heating you will need pipes, a tank and most importantly a boiler. The pipes can be buried in the ground or placed directly under the racks.

Electric heating can be air or underfloor heating. Infrared heating is also very often used. The “warm floor” system is similar in design to a water system. A system consisting of heating cables is installed in a small recess. And then it is covered with layers of sand and fertilized soil. Air heating can be organized using fan heaters. Infrared heating is provided by IR heaters located on the ceiling.

Biofuel is the most inexpensive heating method.

Biofuel can be: manure of any cattle or horse, decaying wood and bark, hay or straw.

Biofuel is located under a layer of fertile soil. For proper heating of this type of heating, it is necessary to have a constant flow of air and maintain the required level of moisture in the air.

Only you decide which type of heating to use in your greenhouse. Each option needs to be considered from a financial point of view. You now know how to build a winter greenhouse for growing plants. You need to figure out how to properly place everything in it - the layout of the internal space.

How to arrange the beds?

If you will grow plants of the same type in a greenhouse, you can arrange the beds in parallel. Keep in mind that different cultures may not get along next to each other. To breed them together, you need to use division into separate zones. For example, it will not be possible to grow tomatoes and cucumbers side by side, because they require different watering methods - tomatoes need to be watered directly at the root, while cucumbers need a drip irrigation system.

Finance, profit, payback period

Correctly calculating the income from a winter greenhouse is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. The calculated profit and profitability of this entire enterprise greatly depends on the distance, the city, markets and the harvest obtained. A more or less realistic return on investment period is two or three years.

Sales channels

Fruits, vegetables and herbs are products that are in constant demand during the warm season, and especially in winter. Growing food in winter has the best profitability because prices for fresh herbs, tomatoes and cucumbers are very high.

Sales market

Grocery chains and small shops, and even supermarkets. They sell a very large volume of vegetables every day, so concluding supply contracts with them is very beneficial for you as a farmer. But it will be necessary to register a legal entity, and these are costs that need to be taken into account. Although, if the crop that turns out to be grown is large, you can think about this sales market. Market, all beginning gardeners sell herbs and vegetables here. Rent a kiosk or tent or place and you can start selling your harvest.

Direct sale of herbs and vegetables. You can place advertisements on highly specialized websites, forums, and message boards on the global network. And there will be buyers very soon.

One of the lightest and easiest to install and assemble is a greenhouse using a wooden frame, which is covered with a special greenhouse plastic film. The main advantage of this structure is the availability of materials, speed and ease of installation. Disadvantages: fragility of the coating, which can be easily damaged.

Another design came to us from Soviet greenhouses. Glass is used as a covering material. Its advantage is the possibility of operation all year round, if heating is installed and double frames are made for the winter period. The light transmittance is ideal compared to any other material. The disadvantages are the complex construction and the fragility of glass as a material.

The type of greenhouse that is worth paying attention to is the increasingly popular structures coated with cellular polycarbonate. The advantages include long service life, low weight, wide temperature range, excellent rigidity and strength parameters. The disadvantage compared to glass is that light transmission is about 90 percent.

To install a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to pay special attention to the foundation. How to make a foundation? You need to dig a small ditch with an approximate depth of 10 to 30 cm, and the length and width are calculated based on the required area. The base must be protected from moisture - apply waterproofing, this can be roofing felt. If there is a strip foundation, then it is necessary to install formwork from any remaining garden plot materials. The fittings can be replaced with any other metal; remnants from old pipes and pieces of steel wire are also suitable.

Since the length of the brick is 25 cm, the width of the brick foundation will be the same.

The height of the foundation will be about 20 cm above ground level. The height of the foundation will need to be increased if you use high beds. Recommends an increase of up to 50 cm. This will result in a small wall. It will also be installed in it.

We've sorted out the foundation. Now you need to make a choice between finished material or rough material.

What is rough material? These are various types of rolled metal for the frame, polycarbonate, gaskets, etc. A greenhouse made of such materials can only be of a certain shape, since they narrow the list of shape choices. At first glance, it will look like a small house with a transparent roof and walls. This is due to the fact that in houses without certain skills and the necessary equipment, it is difficult to make arcs from a power frame.

A greenhouse made from this type of material has an advantage - it is economical to build. There is no need to draw up a project, you do not need to buy materials and tools for installation, and you can install the greenhouse yourself without hiring contractors. For construction you will need the following tools: a drill, a hammer, screwdrivers and a hacksaw for working on metal.

On the sheet you make a drawing with the dimensions of your building in order to have an idea of ​​​​the general appearance of the greenhouse. It is not necessary to comply with GOST standards; your drawing is enough. The most important thing is that you yourself understand what to do and in what sizes.

Recommendations for installing this type of greenhouse are not practical, since each gardener has different types of plot. And everyone will adapt to their own layout, and take into account all the aspects and features of their site when designing a greenhouse. The material from which you decide to build the greenhouse also matters during production.

Positive characteristics of this type of greenhouse:

1. Saving your time. Since the manufacturer himself calculated everything and did the design work.
2. The kit contains all materials for installation. There is no need to search for materials.
3. The finished kit already contains a diagram for assembling a greenhouse. After carefully studying it, you can easily assemble it yourself.
4. All elements have a specific size, as they were manufactured at the factory.

The negative point is that they are of the same type. The market now offers arches in the form of a tunnel (arched type). The advantage of this design is that, due to its arched shape, it has greater light reflection. And also, water from rain will not accumulate on such a surface. The downside is that it is less durable and rigid.

Assembly should not be difficult. We take out the diagram, look at the drawing and clearly, following the instructions, assemble the structure, almost like assembling a construction set.

The most difficult thing when assembling a greenhouse is installing the polycarbonate. The most important thing is to strictly follow the instructions. The only recommendation is that if one person will assemble the greenhouses, then you need to prepare supports in advance.

Since it is quite soft, caution is required when working with it. And also during the assembly process you will need to cut and drill the material. The main thing here is to prepare in advance by marking with a construction marker.

When cutting material, we recommend using a utility knife approximately 3 knife segments long so that the knife does not go to the side.
Since polycarbonate is ready-made design, then it has stiffening ribs inside. Therefore, cutting may be difficult. The main thing here is experience. You can start by taking a small piece of polycarbonate and working with it, so to speak, to get a feel for the material. And if you have a jigsaw, then, of course, use it.

Another important point during assembly. The set includes a vapor transmission tape. Be sure to use it. It will protect your greenhouse from excess moisture and dirt.

So, we have looked at several types of greenhouses. Each of them has its own special and distinctive characteristics. And when building a greenhouse with your own hands, the best projects for yourself will be those that will allow you to focus on your goals, tasks and capabilities. After all, it doesn’t matter at all what kind of harvest you have, the most important thing is that it was made with your own hands and will delight you and your loved ones with a wonderful harvest.