What kind of pipe to make a greenhouse from? How to make a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands? Preparing for construction: drawing up a drawing with dimensions

Greenhouses of lightweight construction, capable of performing all the functions of greenhouses, will be useful in any area. You can make them from plastic and polypropylene pipes with your own hands. Just one day - and an elegant greenhouse flaunts on the site, which is no worse than its factory relatives. To help those wishing to install a greenhouse - a detailed guide to action, photos and videos.

Lightweight but durable greenhouse

Small families growing organic vegetables for their own consumption do not need large greenhouses at all. This luxurious space still needs to be explored. What does one spring treatment cost, with thorough washing of all surfaces inside and out!

In such cases, a rational solution would be to install a small, light, but durable greenhouse made of plastic pipes. To build a greenhouse, unlike a greenhouse, you do not need a foundation. This is a seasonal structure, which is used until autumn, and after the harvest is received, it is dismantled for “wintering”. Over time, if desired, you can replace the design with a more solid option.

The advantage of a greenhouse from PVC pipes:

does not rot or rust. The service life of PVC pipes is up to 50 years;
does not require large financial costs;
easy to build;
can be disassembled and moved to another place;
Thanks to the flexibility of the material, any design shape is available: arched, gable, single-pitch.

Construction of the simplest greenhouse

In Russian fairy tales, ordinary villagers make something every now and then. Either a flying ship, or a wooden eagle. It is not surprising that there are as many options for building greenhouses from plastic pipes as there are craftsmen who built them in their gardens. We suggest moving from simple to complex. The simplest option is a practical greenhouse.

You will need:

plastic pipes;

Stages of work:

You need to cut off one and a half meters of pipe (standard option for narrow beds). The number of such segments depends on the length of the bed, provided they are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
Bend an arc from each pipe and dig it with both ends into the ground so that the bed is under the arc.
Cover with thick film or other covering material.
After stretching the film, strengthen it with earth, stones or bricks.

That's all, the simplest greenhouse that properly performs its functions is ready.

Greenhouse over a bed covered with agrospan

Which film is suitable for covering

Often farmers buy ordinary plastic film, but there are a lot of other covering materials. For example, agrospan, agrotex, putrasil, spunbond. If you still choose film, then bubble or reinforced film with a thickness of 11 mm will do. This coating will withstand heavy winds.

It is convenient to measure the coating directly on the frame, and cut it by laying something hard under it. Experts advise cutting wisely. Let the film be longer rather than shorter.

If the attached covering below is unnecessary, you can pour earth on it, or wrap it, pressing it down with stones.

Installation of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes with pegs

We can say that this type of structure is an enlarged copy of the above-described option. Such a greenhouse is quite durable, its size is limited only by the needs of the farmer. For DIY construction you will need:

wooden boards;
PVC pipes;
as many metal pegs as there are planned arcs;
wooden slats for securing the film.
durable, for example, reinforced film.

Stages of work:

You need to select and level a piece of land.
Build a rectangular wooden greenhouse base from boards. Secure the frame with pegs at the corners.
Place marks along the length of the frame on both sides at a distance of 50 cm from each. This is the marking for installing the arches.
Opposite each mark outside frame, you need to thoroughly dig metal pegs into the ground.
The turn of the pipes has come. Each of them must be put on pegs so that the pipe bends to form an arch.
For reliability, it is better to stretch one or three more pipes across the entire length of the structure.
All that remains is to cover the greenhouse with a thick film. It needs to be tensioned and secured to the wooden base of the greenhouse with prepared slats. This way the film will not tear.
It is necessary to resolve the issue with the door and window. Or is it a full-fledged door on a plastic frame covered with film. Or just a cut hole for entry that can be raised and lowered. The first option is preferable; it will protect the plants from drafts.

Installation of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes with tees

The principle of greenhouse assembly is distinguished by more durable PVC pipe connections. At the joints they are secured with tees. This method allows you to make not only an arched, but also a gable greenhouse.

Attention! Any wooden elements of the structure must be impregnated with an antiseptic or drying oil. And for greater durability, you can also paint it.

To build a greenhouse you will need:

PVC pipes;
boards for the base;
welding machine for plastic pipes;
tees;
covering material.

Greenhouse made of plastic pipes with a gable roof

Stages of work:

We draw a construction plan and calculate how many tees will be needed.
We build a base from boards.
We assemble the frame of the gable greenhouse according to the drawing. Three stiffeners along the width of the greenhouse must be attached. We seal each joint using a welding machine.
At the ends we assemble the door and vents; their base can also be soldered from pipes.
We cover the greenhouse with film, securing it to a wooden base with slats.

Construction of this type of greenhouse will take longer. Its advantage is that it is more durable compared to the previous version. The downside is that you can’t disassemble the greenhouse for the winter, which means you need to periodically clear the snow from it. Or remove the film, and then the structure can calmly wait for the warm season.

If funds allow, you can make a more durable structure from metal-plastic pipes. It will not be afraid of winds and thunderstorms, because the pipes are made of metal coated with plastic. Such a frame can easily support the weight. For construction you will need:

metal-plastic pipes;
wooden boards;
fittings;
plastic clamps, nails, screws;
door hinges and handles
cellular polycarbonate.

Greenhouse made of metal-plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

Stages of work:

We are preparing a plot of land. You need an absolutely flat surface, so it is better to check it with a level.
We construct a rectangular frame from boards. We secure the corners with reinforcement.
We dig pegs made of reinforcement 80 cm long into the ground half their length. The distance between the rods should be 50 cm.
We put the pipes on the pegs so that we get arcs.
The pipes must be attached to the wooden base with clamps.
The base of the door and transom can be made from wooden blocks.
Stretch a pipe along the greenhouse for strength.
We fasten the polycarbonate sheets with screws to the prepared ends and to the greenhouse itself.

With proper care, a greenhouse made of PVC or metal-plastic pipes can serve faithfully for a long time

Greenhouse made of plastic pipes - video

Greenhouse made of plastic and PVC pipes - photo

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.

Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid

How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground
(Shockingly simple way!!!)

The method is that we place PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season)

Click on the photo to enlarge

How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

Very simple design greenhouse Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also do. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step by step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.

DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
7-12 photos we attach the film.
14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted green to blend in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to cover some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. Due to atmospheric pressure, water moves into a small jar, opening the window

A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to a new house, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from glass door(a double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! An important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof should be made folding (lifting upward), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: the optimal slope of the roof slope of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) is φ, where φ is the geographic latitude of the location; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and a glass cover. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be made a fixing mechanism open lid on different angles(see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its design, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, five crops: spinach, green onions, mâché, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnip.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When hit sunlight in such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the ripening process of seedlings.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden lattice

The advantages of such a greenhouse:

- quickly erected
- stable
- easy to manufacture

Minuses:

Not suitable for tall plants, but can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are the rotating flat screens, painted white, which allow you to get the most out of your solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: You can use any flat panels covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. Its diameter is trapezoidal. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be covered with wooden shields, making approaches easier.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower frames.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket into each hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made of 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits with a clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

Polymers are persistently displacing wood, glass and metal from industry and everyday life. They didn't pass by summer cottages and country farms. Lightweight, durable plastics are not corroded by mold, evaporation, caustic chemicals, or moisture do not spoil them. Polymer greenhouse structures last longer than all types of outdated predecessors and withstand atmospheric adversity. The only disappointments are the price of greenhouse structures from manufacturers and the sizes, which do not always coincide with the needs of gardeners. There is no need to be discouraged: you can build a greenhouse with your own hands from plastic pipes without any problems or financial costs. However, it doesn’t hurt for an independent master to stock up on patience and knowledge of the nuances.

Plastic pipes are easy to cut, bend, glue, and weld. In greenhouse construction, polymer parts can even be connected with self-tapping screws, because water does not have to flow through their strong “veins”. The manufacturability of the material makes it possible to implement literally any complex projects: from a greenhouse or arched mini-greenhouse to an impressive all-season building with a gable roof or a fantasy polyhedron. You just need to decide in advance on the design that is priority in your own opinion and purchase suitable material. Because the family of polymer pipes suitable for DIY construction includes:

rigid polyvinyl chloride representatives (PVC), not characterized by elasticity. They are used for the construction of gable and single-slope, “green houses”, i.e. designs with straight lines and edges, which were different from the wooden “ancestors”;
flexible polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride counterparts (PP, PVC), from which they prefer to build arched structures or erect rounded roofs over a rigid frame made of hard plastic elements, metal profiles or wooden slats.

All types of polymer pipes are produced with fittings: cross and tee splitters, rotary connectors, adapters for joining pipes of different diameters. The use of fittings will significantly “revive” the pace of construction, but will increase the budget. We will attribute this fact to the personal preferences of the future owner and allow him to choose whether to use connectors or not.

There is one more criterion that needs to be determined “on the shore”. A self-created greenhouse made of plastic pipes can be stationary or collapsible. In the first case, the structural parts of the green house are welded or glued together forever, in the second they are screwed on with screws.

Regardless of the chosen project, the construction process includes a number of characteristic stages:

construction of a base that replaces the foundation, because there is no reason to pour a concrete strip or support pillars under a light plastic building;
assembly of a frame from flexible or rigid polymer pipes;
fastening a light-conducting coating, which is best suited for plastic greenhouses using reinforced polyethylene film. Polycarbonate is used less frequently. But glass is strictly prohibited;
production of end parts with vents and doors;
hanging transoms, sashes, doors, locks.

Let's look at the general rules and two common methods of building a house for tomatoes and cucumbers that are quite accessible to a novice performer.

Base for polymer frame

Before delving into the question of how you can make a reliable structure from plastic pipes yourself, you need to understand the basis. Those. with a frame that will hold the super-light frame and maintain its geometric parameters. Choice the best option the basis is not related to the project and type of structure. Rather, it depends on the degree of capital of the building and on the funds available to the owner.

To make the base frame you can use:

board, thickness 6, even better 8mm;
timber with sides 6×12, 8×12 or more;
a rigid plastic pipe that can only perform the function of the bottom trim.

Most often, the base for a light plastic frame is made from a thick board, because its load-bearing capacity is quite sufficient. For those who do not experience financial constraints or are planning to install a complete greenhouse, timber is suitable. It is connected by cutting half a tree without using hardware. And this means that in wooden frame there will be no rusting metal parts.

The timber base can be buried in the ground, for which you first need to dig a trench. First, roofing felt is laid around the perimeter of the trench, covering the bottom and walls of the dug trench, and then a wooden frame is installed.

A frame made of a polymer pipe cannot be considered an independent basis. It is constructed if there is a wooden, brick or concrete foundation. They are fastened either with staples to the beam or to anchor bolts fixed in the concrete during its hardening or in brickwork during the period of its establishment.

All of the options listed are compatible with any plastic greenhouse project. However, you need to take into account that if you have a foundation, you will have to forget about periodically changing the location of the green house. Therefore, we will consider the procedure for manufacturing the most popular and simplest type of base - a plank frame:

We are preparing the site for construction. We remove a layer of turf from the area so that the area freed from it is longer and wider than the future structure by about a meter, so that it is retreated by half a meter around each side.
We measure the surface with a construction spirit level. If necessary, level the site. The permissible height difference is 5 cm, distributed over 2 m.
We assemble a wooden frame from four thick boards with pre-calculated individual dimensions. We fasten with two, preferably three, galvanized screws or nails. The length of the hardware is determined based on the thickness of the attached element: it should be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board.
Using a tape measure, measure the frame diagonally in two directions. If the diagonal indicators match exactly, the base came out perfectly. If not, we look for and eliminate flaws.
We install the assembled frame in the intended place and strengthen it by driving four pieces of reinforcement into the inside of the corner. The length of the rod driven into the corner is 70-80 cm. The reinforcement sections need to be driven almost flush with the frame.

The process of making a board base will be demonstrated in the photo:

The wooden frame will be in contact with wet soil and will have to withstand the onslaught of precipitation. Therefore, the board or timber for the base should be well dried and treated with hot bitumen before assembly. It is also advisable to soak it in kerosene-butum antiseptic.

Do-it-yourself elementary greenhouse made of flexible pipes

For the construction of the simplest arched design we will need:

pieces of reinforcing bar 75 cm each. It is advisable to stock up on reinforcement Ø 10-12mm. It is better to choose A3, because smooth rods without embossed ribs are simpler and easier to drive into the ground. We calculate the number of pieces in advance. They are driven into the ground along the long sides at approximately 60 cm ± 5 – 7 cm. In order not to bother with dividing the reinforcing bars into parts, we order cutting to size from the seller;
white flexible PVC pipe with walls no thinner than 3 mm. We purchase it based on the number of pieces of reinforcement intended for installation on one side. How many pieces there should be so many pieces 6 m long. Plus one more piece for the screed if the length of the greenhouse is up to 6 m. The classic school formula will help the buyer of material in coils to calculate more accurately, according to which they calculate the circumference (two-pi-er) . The result obtained should be divided into two and slightly adjusted if you are planning an arch of a slightly elongated shape, such as a half oval;
plastic clamps for fastening the arches into a single structure with a tie. The number of clamps is equal to the number of sections of polymer pipe;
metal mounting brackets, it is more convenient to take aluminum fasteners for drywall. They are needed to fix the arches to the wooden base. We purchase 2 per piece of pipe;
polyethylene film 6 m wide. Excellent if you have enough money for reinforced material. We calculate the footage by summing the length and two heights. We add ≈ 1.0 m for reserve for unforeseen changes in size in fact.

You will also need thin wooden planks for attaching the film about 50 cm long, timber for the construction door frame and frames for windows, nails, locks, screws, hinges for hanging doors and opening sashes. The craftsman will determine these costs directly on site.

We prepared the material, got inspired and started building an economical greenhouse from plastic pipes as follows:

Along the long walls on both sides of the frame, we hammer in pieces of reinforcement with a sledgehammer so that no more than 40 cm remains above the surface.
We put a piece of PVC pipe on the reinforcement bars located on opposite sides.
We fasten the resulting arches to the wooden frame using metal staples.
We arrange the ends of the structure by knocking together a doorway from a block, which will also act as a box. We reinforce the ends with additional wooden parts to ensure rigidity.
We install the top tie of the arched structure. It should pass through all the highest points of the arches. We attach the screed to the arches with polymer clamps.
Cover the structure with film, evenly distributing the stock. At both ends there should be pieces of polyethylene equal in size. We nail the covering through the planks to the frame. First, we nail the film along one long wall. We start from the middle of the wall, heading towards the corners. Then, having moderately stretched the covering, we nail it to the second wall of the frame using the same pattern.
At the ends we decorate the film with peculiar folds and nail it.
We will make the door and windows in advance. They must be covered with film and freely inserted/exposed into the frames intended for them.
We cut holes for the door and window in the base of the covering, so that there is an overlap along the edges of the cut hole to fix the polyethylene to the beam.
We screw on the hinges for the windows and doors, hang what should hang on the hinges, and install locks.

This the simplest way will help you quickly build an inexpensive greenhouse from PVC pipes. The principle of its construction is taken as the basis for numerous variations. The ends can be made of plywood, the dimensions of the door, the location and dimensions of the vents can be changed, stiffeners can be installed diagonally at the ends, etc. It is not necessary to nail the polyethylene with planks; instead, it is wiser to use a furniture stapler.

There are countless options. We invite you to watch a useful video on the topic “how to properly build a greenhouse from plastic pipes”:

Technological path “from the reverse”

Surely, after familiarizing yourself with the simplest principle of constructing a greenhouse, doubts remained about the logical sequence of actions. Everything was good and simple until we got to arranging the ends. Then it is necessary to try on the already installed frame more than once to determine the appropriate position of the windows and doors. It is not easier to start by making the ends, as in the method described below:

To the board, the length of which is 10-12 cm greater than the width of the planned greenhouse, we temporarily screw a 6-meter section of pipe with self-tapping screws to form the outline of the structure. We screw it in lightly at first so that the pipe can be slightly rotated to adjust the configuration. As soon as we achieve the ideal shape of the end, we screw it in with some effort, without being too zealous, so as not to damage the polymer part;
We will make a frame for the door frame from a 2 cm thick board, selecting the optimal position of its parts at our discretion. To strengthen the frame, we will install oblique struts;
glue the intersections of the door lintel and jambs, then screw two screws into the crosshairs;
outline the outline of the arch on the wooden frame parts to saw off the excess;
drill a small diameter hole in the center of the crosshair. We pass a plastic clamp through it to connect the frame and the plastic arch.
We will strengthen the connections with plywood elements.

We do the same with the second end; we check its congruence with the first during the manufacturing process. It is very convenient to adjust parts of the structure until they are installed in the planned place. The second end can be equipped, by analogy with the first, with the same opening door. However, it is better to install a window into it, for the installation of which another smaller frame will need to be placed inside the existing frame.

An interesting point is the sheathing of the end with polyethylene, performed according to the following algorithm:

We spread polyethylene on the ground, on which we place the previously made end face down;
We fasten the covering with a stapler to the trim board from above so that the metal fastening brackets are on the inside of the future structure;
wrap the free edge of the polyethylene over the end;
We attach it to the slanting slats that strengthen the frame and cut off the excess;
cut a hole in the middle of the polyethylene-lined end, departing 10-15 cm from the existing outline of the opening;
We cut a hole in the corners, not reaching the frame 0.8-1.0 cm.

The final step is to fold in our plastic allowance and fasten with a stapler what we have folded.

The frame assembly scheme will be slightly different from the previous method. And although the lower harness is produced by analogy, that is, the base in its normal understanding is absent. The first step is to hammer in the reinforcing pins, then install the ends. Then connect the installed elements into a single structure with one or more ties. But there is less fuss with arranging the openings and it is easier to attach the light-conducting coating.

The polyethylene sheet is simply fixed on both sides at the base of the frame. A strip is simply placed on top of it, which is screwed to the plastic arches with self-tapping screws. Around the ends, the polyethylene must either be assembled as a frill, or attached to the end arch using clamps cut from a slightly larger pipe.

Construction of a frame with plastic walls

It often happens that the standard arc height of a homemade greenhouse is inconvenient for tall family members. An ingenious invention of folk craftsmen will help to cope with the problem, according to which flexible PP and rigid PVC pipes of the variety are used in the construction. In order to increase the height, sections of rigid polymer pipe are first placed on the reinforcement pins driven into the base, to which arches are attached using plastic crosses and tees. There are no other fundamental differences, so instead of a description we will attach a photo selection:

Rules for building a greenhouse from rigid pipes

For adherents of traditional forms, polymer pipes also offer a lot of technological opportunities. The photo shows an example of the construction of a single-slope structure; gable options are constructed by analogy.

Any frame made of practical plastic pipes can be covered with polycarbonate. To fix it, you must use roofing screws with thermal washers. The list of priorities of a polymer material does not include only the possibility of glazing. But based on the above examples, without a doubt, a lot of your own ideas for building a green house will appear.

Our man traditionally likes to grow trees, vegetables and fruits on his summer cottage. But our weather and temperature vary, and some crops require early planting and a long ripening period. This is where the need for greenhouses arises. Factory greenhouses - they can be capital and very light, arched and “house”, their glass and plastic are expensive and do not always fit the area in size and size. But there is always an opportunity to do the simplest greenhouse with your own hands - for example, from plastic pipes.

What is a greenhouse and how does it differ from a greenhouse?

Often these concepts are confused. These designs, of course, are similar in material and design - frames and transparent coating - plastic, film or glass. But a greenhouse is most often a place where you can stand and care for beds or bushes, and an important condition: it must be capital.

Greenhouses come in an endless variety of shapes and materials

To protect from cold, wind, and precipitation, greenhouses are covered with plastic film or plastic sheets.

Greenhouse-greenhouse on a wooden base metal pipes under the film

Plastic sheets - typically cellular polycarbonate - are used for permanent, heavy-duty greenhouses that are used throughout the year.

Polycarbonate greenhouse - reliable design

A greenhouse is a low, long shelter for a garden bed, often with a semicircular cross-section. As a rule, it is used for growing seedlings in the spring. Sometimes they are made on a wooden base and also stand stationary, on boxes of timber and boards.

A stationary greenhouse of this design is easier to make from metal pipes

And often they are placed directly on the ground above the garden bed. Then it’s easier to make them from plastic pipes so that they can be easily transported from place to place.

Semicircular greenhouse made of plastic pipes with folded film

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic pipes for construction

A greenhouse has a lot of advantages and very few disadvantages.

Advantages

Affordability - such a greenhouse will cost less than all other analogues

Ease of assembly - such a greenhouse is easy to design and manufacture, and if it is not needed (for example, in winter), you can always disassemble it and store it somewhere.

Versatility - can be used in different places on the site.

Lightness - if necessary, it can be moved from place to place without even disassembling the structure.

Durability - plastic pipes are absolutely durable, not afraid of dampness, cold, heat, fumes, fungus, and rotting. The film or joints may become unusable (from frequent assembly and disassembly), but replacement will also be quite cheap.

Aesthetics - a greenhouse made of plastic pipes always looks bright and does not look like a homemade product made from scrap materials.

Safety - such a greenhouse is absolutely safe for plants and soil.

A plastic pipe with a diameter of 20 mm is an excellent material for a lightweight greenhouse

Flaws

All material must be purchased according to calculations. You won't be able to make do with improvised means.

Making a structure with your own hands

We present here two options for greenhouses - a very simple one for one bed and a more complex and tall one.

The simplest greenhouse

This is the simplest greenhouse design. It just couldn't be simpler. Curved sections of pipe are dug in above the bed on both sides in increments of approximately 50 to 70 centimeters. The step depends on the thickness of the film used, and the number of segments depends on the length of the bed.

Let's say our bed is 6 meters long. This means that we will need 12 pieces of pipe with a length of one and a half meters. Since pipes are usually sold cut into 4 meter pieces, we will cut them into 2 meter lengths. This means there will be 6 pipes. Fittings (devices for connecting pipes) are not needed. Ideally, fasteners can be used, but you can also fix the film on the pipes by tying its ends into knots and pressing the edges with stones.

Film can be either primary or secondary processed. The latter is much cheaper, but, as a rule, it either has an unpleasant brown, yellow or gray tint, or is completely opaque - gray or black, so it will not suit us. The film is sold in a sleeve, so we will need to cut it lengthwise. We will choose a thin film with a thickness of 150 micrometers.

The film sleeve is sold in rolls of 10 meters

Materials

Tools

Scissors
Shovel

Making a simple greenhouse

We cut the four-meter pipe in half. We get 12 pieces.
We stick each piece one by one into the ground more firmly, knock it down and stick it on the other side of the bed. The bed turns out to be under an arc.
We cut the film roll lengthwise and cover the resulting structure with it so that there are identical “tails” along the edges.
We fasten the film to the resulting arches with clamps - two or three per arch.
We press the sides of the film to the ground with bricks or cobblestones.
We tie the “tails” with twine - if desired, they can be untied to allow air to flow.

A greenhouse over a bed made of buried plastic pipes

Our greenhouse is ready. This is a primitive design, but it will fully perform all the functions required for a greenhouse.

Making a greenhouse of a more complex design

Greenhouse more complex design higher, longer, it covers a larger area of land and is suitable for taller plants, has a door or two doors, sometimes vents, requires more pipes, complex elements of the system for connecting them, more film fastenings to the pipes (if film is used) or sheets polycarbonate (if polycarbonate is used). You can use non-woven materials - agrotex, agrospan, spunbond, or reinforced ones, which have much greater strength and can withstand strong winds and even hail. Even bubble wrap is used. They conduct the sun's rays worse, but retain heat much better.

Therefore, you should approach the choice of greenhouse model and, accordingly, the choice of material with special care.

Choosing a greenhouse model

We choose a design model of average complexity. Let it be a greenhouse made of pipes on a wooden frame (it’s easier this way, no need to concrete the rods). We find the drawing on the Internet and, if necessary, adjust it to the dimensions we need and our capabilities.

A drawing of a greenhouse with wooden parts includes all fastening elements

All nodes are visible in more detail in another drawing; this drawing suits us better; it does not require the presence of wooden planks. It can be seen that everything is very simple - our greenhouse is assembled like a children's construction set.

System of fastening pipes to each other and to the base

Material selection

The length of our greenhouse is about seven meters. According to the drawing, we select pipes. Of course, we will need a pipe of a larger diameter and with greater wall thickness than in the previous simple version. We choose a pipe with a diameter of 25 millimeters.

A simple plastic pipe is the most budget option

The fasteners must match it. We need quite a few cross fittings of the appropriate diameter for the cross-shaped connection of the pipes.

The cross fitting will hold the pipes together perpendicularly

You will also need tees for the ends of the greenhouse.

We connect the pipes from the ends of the greenhouse with tees

The boards for the frame should also not be very thin, so we choose their thickness of 25 millimeters.

The edged board will serve as the base of the greenhouse

Cups for securing pipes are difficult to find, so you can purchase regular external plugs.

The plug can also serve as a glass

It is better to choose not ordinary polyethylene film, but heat-resistant reinforced one - so that it can withstand serious atmospheric phenomena - heavy rains, hail, wind, which often happen in our summer.

Reinforced film will last much longer

Position	Name	Specification	Quantity	Unit price	Price	Notes
1	Plastic pipe FORA PN10	Ø 25x2.3 mm	70 meters	33 rub/m	2310 rubles	It is necessary to find a supplier whose pipes are sold by the meter, and not cut into pieces of several meters. Otherwise, pipe consumption will increase significantly
2	Cross fitting SPK 18110 single-plane	Ø 25 mm	56 pieces	18 RUR	1008 rub.
3	Tee fitting Enkor PPRC single-plane	Ø 25 mm	14 pieces	9 RUR	126 rub.
4	PVC plug	Ø 25 mm	10 pieces	8 rubles	80 rubles
5	Set of clamps for attaching the film to the greenhouse frame GRINDA 422317–25 (12 pieces)	Ø 25 mm	5 sets	60 rub/set	300 rubles
6	25x200x6000 mm	3 pieces	370 RUR/piece	1110 rubles
7	Reinforced polyethylene PET film	200 microns (120 g/sq.m), 2x25 m per roll	1 roll	1,180 rubles	1,180 rubles
8	Self-tapping screws		About 2 kg			As needed
Total					5114 rubles (excluding the cost of screws)

Required Tools

Bayonet and shovel shovels
Power saw (regular saw)
Drill
Screwdriver

Step-by-step process for making a greenhouse

We choose a place. There must be good access, sunny, close to the water, level.
An example of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the landscape of the site
Using a shovel we level the area for the greenhouse. If necessary, add fertile soil and peat.
An example of a polycarbonate greenhouse on a leveled area
We install a frame for panic from boards. We cut them into pieces of the required length and connect them with self-tapping screws. You can strengthen the connections with large steel angles. We carefully treat it with anti-rotting impregnation.
The greenhouse base made from boards is easy to assemble
We attach plugs to the boards in the marked places with self-tapping screws - they will serve as glasses for the pipes.
Plugs will serve as pipe glasses
We cut the pipes into sections of the required length for arcs and horizontal sections.
We insert the segments that should be the lowest into the glasses and fix them with self-tapping screws.
We collect further sections. We fix all joints with self-tapping screws directly through the fittings.
Connecting pipes using fittings and screws
Tee connections look like this.
Tee connection from the ends of the greenhouse
The greenhouse is gradually gaining constructive completion.
An example of a greenhouse that is close to completion
We hang a wooden strip under the central upper longitudinal pipe for attaching the lamps.
The lamp strip is suspended from the central upper longitudinal pipe
We cover the greenhouse with pre-cut reinforced film and fix it.
Covering with film goes something like this:
We cut through the door and windows, strengthen the edges with tape. Here there is complete scope for creativity: you can cut out the door and windows from additional pieces of film, you can cut them directly onto the structure, sew or glue zippers or buttons for fastening.