The principle of operation of a wood router. Lessons on working with a wood router: cutting tenons, making a groove. Basics of working with an electric mill

A router is a unique tool with enormous functionality, which is an indispensable assistant in carpentry. With a hand router you can create different kinds connections between wooden parts, perform shaped processing of edges, ribs and faces of workpieces, use it for making grooves and recesses, as well as for wood carving and metal engraving.

Despite its ease of use, the router is a dangerous tool if you use it without observing simple rules. So, the basic rules for working with this unit are as follows.

Preparing the tool for work

The most important thing to do before starting milling is to configure the unit for a specific type of work, taking into account the properties of the material being processed and the type of equipment.

Speed ​​selection

A milling cutter is a unit capable of developing very high spindle speeds, from 8,000 to 24,000 rpm or more. The higher the rotation speed of the equipment, the cleaner the processed surface will be. But you should know that exceeding the permissible speed for certain cutters can cause the workpiece to burn in the processing areas. Therefore, in addition to the rotation speed of the tool shank, one should also take into account blade linear speed. As a rule, the larger the diameter of the equipment, the higher the linear speed of the cutting edge of the equipment rotates. If you intend to use large-diameter equipment, then the spindle speed will need to be reduced slightly.

Below is a table, using which you can select the optimal rotation speed of the tool depending on its diameter.

In addition, when choosing the rotation speed of the tool, the hardness of the material being processed should also be taken into account. Milling hardwood requires slower speeds than those recommended for a given tool diameter.

You should also reduce the speed of the tool if cutting PVC, processing plexiglass and plastics is required. At high speeds, the plastic will begin to melt and stick to the blades of the equipment. In each specific case, the rotation speed is selected experimentally.

Installation of cutter

Before replacing the tool, you must disconnect the router from the power supply. Disabling the start button will not be enough. It is very important to unplug the cord from the outlet to prevent accidental starting of the engine.

The equipment changes as follows.

It should be remembered: the nut of the collet clamp cannot be tightened if there is no equipment in it. This will cause it to break.

Setting the processing depth

Almost all milling units are equipped with depth regulators. Setting the tool immersion depth is as follows:

As a result, if you lower the drive until the stop (2) touches the lowest step of the turret stop, you will get maximum extension of the cutter relative to the base of the unit. This amount of immersion of the tool into the workpiece will be final, that is, it will have the required depth.

If you need to make a deep groove that cannot be selected in one pass, you can use a turret stop to gradually immerse the tool into the workpiece. To do this, place the highest step of the turret stop (1) under the depth stop (2) and carry out milling. Next, place the next, lower stop under the stop, and again make one pass with the tool. When the stop reaches the lowest stop, the required groove depth will be obtained. The following figure shows how the tool is gradually deepened into the workpiece when using a turret-type stop.

Edge processing

To process the edges and ends of the workpiece, special edge cutters. They can be either straight or curly. Straight cutters are used for trimming (aligning) the edges of parts according to a template (curvilinear) or along a ruler. For example, if you cut laminated chipboard electric jigsaw, then in this case you can’t do without a router. The edge after passing the nail file turns out to be uneven and with small chips. To give it the ideal geometry, do the following.

To process the ends of workpieces, you can use conventional submersible (vertical) milling machines. If you need to remove overhangs from a PVC edge, the thickness of which can reach up to 4 mm, then it will be more convenient to work with an edge router, since it has compact dimensions and light weight.

Shaped end mills Mainly used for processing wood and MDF products. In this case, the workpiece is first given a certain shape using a straight miter cutter. And after this, a tool with the required shaped profile is inserted into the collet and the edge is processed in the usual way. The aligned edge of the part serves only as a template or guide for the bearing.

When milling wooden parts, take into account the direction of the wood grain. If this is not done, chips will occur at the corners of the workpieces or at the places where the longitudinal fibers transition into the end fibers when processing, for example, curved parts. To avoid chipping, you should circle the “problem” areas on the workpiece with chalk (Figure A). If you go through these areas with a milling cutter in the usual way (counterclockwise), this will most often cause the formation of chips. Therefore, up to the “problem” zones, the tool is fed counterclockwise, and in the places where the fibers transition, the direction is reversed (Figure C).

The same rule applies for processing the corners of wooden blanks. First, the cutter must pass along the fibers clockwise (through the corner), after which trimming continues in the usual way.

If MDF facades are milled (before pasting them with plastic) or other products made from this material, then you should not worry about chips, since the material has a homogeneous structure.

Cutting holes

You can use it to cut holes in wood pieces. straight groove cutter. If the hole has a complex shape, then it is cut with a router according to a pre-prepared template using a copy ring. The latter is attached to the base of the milling cutter and, when the unit is operating, sets the movement of the tool in the desired direction.

So, to cut a hole in a wooden piece, you need to perform the following operations:

• secure a straight slot cutter in the collet of the machine;
• attach a copy sleeve to the router sole;
• place the workpiece in which you want to make a hole on the workbench;
• place small pieces of chipboard under the workpiece to slightly raise it above the table (this is required for the tool to come out when cutting through the part);
• place the template with the already prepared hole on the workpiece and press both parts to the table with clamps;
• set the minimum value of the cutter overhang (about 3 mm) relative to the base of the device;
• turn on the router and carefully lower it onto the template so that the cutter gently enters the material;
• mill along the entire perimeter of the template;
• lower the cutter another 3 mm and repeat the above operation;
• Continue adding 3mm depth at a time until the cutter goes right through the workpiece.

In the same way you can cut a round hole according to the appropriate template. But in order to cut a circle in a workpiece, there is a much simpler way. Most milling cutter models already include circular device. It consists of a rod with an adjustable (pointed) screw on one side.

The rod is attached to the sole of the unit, and a pointed screw is inserted into a hole that serves as the center of the future circle. Next, you need to set the desired radius taking into account the diameter of the cutter. The following figure shows how to correctly calculate the radius of a hole.

Milling is carried out in the usual way in several stages, each time deepening the tool by 3 mm.

You can also drill holes with a router, for example, for installation of furniture hinges. This is done as follows.

1. Clamp in the collet of the unit Forstner drill required diameter.
2. Set the spindle speed to minimum.
3. Place the router on a flat surface.
4. Lower the cutter so that the spike in its center does not reach the table surface 2-3 mm, and fix the drive on the guides.
5. Next, lower the depth stop onto any step of the turret stop and secure it with the locking screw. Thanks to the depth limiter, the cutter will not be able to drop below the required level.
6. Remove the drive lock so that it can move freely up and down along the guides.
7. The center of the future hole should be marked on the workpiece.
8. Place the router pad on the workpiece and lower the cutter so that the tenon located in its center exactly hits the intended location on the part.
9. Raise the cutter slightly above the workpiece, turn on the unit and, after reaching full speed, smoothly begin to plunge the tool into the material until the depth stop reaches the stop. At this point the drilling operation can be considered complete.

Before drilling on a workpiece, you should perform the same operation on some unnecessary piece of wood or chipboard of similar thickness.

It is important that this blind hole has the required depth, sufficient to install a furniture hinge cup into it, while there should be no bulges or through holes on the back side of the part.

If you need to do through hole, then it is not necessary to install a depth limiter. For a “clean” cutter exit on the back side of the workpiece, drilling must be carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, the cup drill is immersed into the workpiece until a small hole from the tenon is formed on its reverse side. Next, the workpiece is turned over, the drill spike is installed in the resulting hole, and further drilling is carried out. This way, the edges of the hole on both sides of the workpiece will be smooth and without chips.

Insertion of locks and hinges

For inserting hinges and locks into wooden door Many special devices have been developed on which the plunge router is installed.

These devices are quite expensive, so craftsmen try to make them with their own hands. For example, inserting hinges with a router without a template is quite a troublesome task. But this process is significantly simplified if you make a special simple template. You can learn how to do this from this video.

Mortise locks into interior doors occurs in 2 stages: first, a wide groove is formed for the front plate of the lock, and then a deep groove is selected for the lock body. To form the seat of the lock body, you must perform the following steps.

Sampling of grooves and quarters

To select a groove on the workpiece face or its edge (end), you can use rip fence, as when mortising door locks. But you can also make a special device to facilitate the process if you need to select grooves in a large number of identical wooden parts. What does it look like grooving device, shown in the following figure.

This device is easy to set up:

• the unit is installed on the device platform;
• the entire structure is superimposed on the workpiece;
• using parallel guides, the straight groove cutter is centered relative to the markings on the workpiece;
• After adjusting the immersion depth of the equipment (usually several passes are required), the grooves are made.

To select a quarter in a piece of wood, use groove cutter with bearing.

The edge (end) of the workpiece serves as a guide for the equipment. The tool is clamped in the collet of the unit, after which the immersion height is set and the quarter is removed in the usual way.

Quarter selection is not the only function of this equipment. With its help, you can select a groove along the edge of the workpiece and make a tongue and groove board. The depth of the groove is adjusted by changing thrust bearings of different diameters.

To produce tongue-and-groove boards in large quantities, you will need to attach the router to the table.

Tenon-groove and dovetail connection

To create a tongue-and-groove connection, there are many complex devices. But if the production of wood products is not on stream, then the tongue-and-groove connection using hand router can be done in a simple way.

How the groove is selected was discussed in detail above. If you need to make a tenon-groove along the entire length or width of the workpiece, then you will not need to round the corners of the tenon.

To make a dovetail tenon joint, use a special device.

Installed on the router dovetail slot cutter, as well as a copy sleeve with sides for better positioning in the slots of the template.

After clamping the template and the workpiece, milling is carried out according to general rules.

A tongue-and-groove joint is also used in the manufacture of lining. Just to make the lining, you need to have a set of 2 cutters. One cutter selects a groove on the edge of the part, and the other makes a tenon.

To make a panel, the edge of which is a tenon, and cut a groove in the facade frame, also use a set of cutters.

Metal work

Milling of metal with a manual milling machine is carried out in very rare cases, since this tool is not intended for this purpose. Sometimes it is used for cleaning welds or countersinking holes. It is also possible to use this tool for processing products made of aluminum, copper, bronze and brass (for making grooves). A carbide groove cutter is installed in the unit, and the part is milled in the usual way.

In this case, the machine must be set to minimum spindle speed, and the immersion depth of the equipment per pass should be 0.5-1 mm.

Sometimes a hand router is used to engrave patterns on planes made of non-ferrous metals. In this case, the same templates and devices are used as for woodworking, only special ones are clamped into the collet of the router engraving cutters.

Figured carving and making crafts

Usually, grooved ones are used for figured wood carving. fillet and slot straight cutters. Wood carving with a hand router occurs as follows:

• install a fillet groove cutter of small diameter into the unit;
• apply a design to the workpiece (you can use a stencil);

• outline the applied pattern with a black marker (not alcohol);

• follow the drawn lines with a fillet cutter, setting the immersion depth to 3-4 mm;

• Next, you should change the fillet cutter to a straight groove cutter and select the entire inner part of the pattern;

• After milling is completed, the resulting pattern should be sanded with sandpaper and varnished.

It's done in the same way volumetric figured carving on wood. Only the cutter selects not the pattern, but the background around it. The finishing of the ornament is done with a drill or mini-drill (engraver).

Also, with the help of a milling cutter, not only surface wood carving is produced, but also openwork through (slotted) cutting of plywood, thin furniture panels, MDF boards. The following picture shows a slotted pattern made with a router on plywood.

Processing of plywood is done with ordinary wood cutters.

Since plywood contains a certain amount of adhesive, the equipment must be cleaned of glue adhering to the blades more often than when processing wood.

Using the work techniques described above, you can cut out shaped elements for gazebos, kitchen facades, country furniture, etc.

Figured wood carvings can decorate various wood crafts. For example, boxes, backgammon, making signs for various establishments.

A milling cutter can also be used if required make balusters, decorated with twisted or straight carvings. To mill straight grooves, use a special device that is easy to make with your own hands.

The process of milling a baluster occurs as follows.

1. A fillet groove cutter with a bearing is installed in the unit.
2. To prevent the workpiece from turning, it is fixed with a screw. It should fit into one of the holes in the disk with the baluster attached to it.
3. Next, the tool is lowered so that the thrust bearing is to the left or right of the workpiece and just below its center. But the cutter must be located exactly in the center of the part.
4. After positioning the equipment, the unit is turned on and a rounded groove is produced (the bearing guides the tool, repeating all the shapes of the baluster).
5. At the next stage, the router is moved to the side, the fixing screw is released, and the disk is rotated so that the lock fits into the next hole.
6. After fixing the workpiece, the longitudinal groove is removed again. After each pass of the cutter, it is necessary to rotate the workpiece by 1 step.

The following photo shows balusters with longitudinal grooves.

For the manufacture of twisted balusters a more complex device will be required.

The twisted pattern is obtained by turning the workpiece while the cutter moves along it. The rotation of the workpiece and the movement of the milling cutter on this machine are synchronized.

After purchasing a hand router, a novice craftsman may have questions about the operating technology. True, as a rule, a router is purchased by people who already have an understanding of woodworking, but this is not always the case. Therefore, first you just need to get acquainted with the router and the popular cutter profiles.

This article is specifically for beginners, so let's start with the most basic things. When purchasing a router, you need to check the completeness; the set should contain keys for tightening the nut, a removable stop, and bits (cutters). A good router may include spare brushes, a collet, and additional guides with a roller or pin.

The cutter is installed from below, into the hole on the shaft and is fixed with a collet using a clamping nut. On a router, the stop pad is movable; it allows you to change the depth of cut. The depth is fixed with a special clamp with a handle, and the exact depth is set using a nut on a threaded rod. The type and shape of the locking clips may differ slightly from one tool to another, but the principle of operation is the same for all.

Before starting work, you need to tighten the nut on the collet well, set the depth and tighten the lock.

Remember that when you move the router quickly, small chips may appear on the profile, and the load on the tool will increase noticeably. Slow movement of the cutter gives a cleaner profile, but there is a risk of burning on the profile. Which is also not good, then it’s difficult to sand out these places.

In order to make profiles on the edges of parts, there are cutters with a support bearing.
Milling on the edges of tabletops is called the general word “kalevka”, although the profiles themselves may differ in shape.

To cut profiles at a distance from the edge of the part, end mills without bearings are used. In this case, it is necessary to use a guide stop, otherwise the grooves and grooves will not turn out smooth. In any case, the router and cutter must go along some kind of stop. For more serious work it will be useful.

Set of cutters.

A cone cutter is used to cut a V-shaped groove. A groove or groove is made both to decorate the surface and to assemble parts.

Dovetail grooving cutter is used in processing parts for making tenon joints.

Profile cutters with support bearings are used for processing the edges of wooden parts. This profile is suitable for countertops; we can say that this is one of the “moulded” options.

A cutter for cutting an internal oval on the edges of parts, the old name is “fillet”. Usually such cutters are called “mushroom”.

To remove a sharp edge, use a milling cutter sharpened to 45*. This profile is often used and is called “chamfer”.

Pictures diynetwork.com

1. Basics at work
2. Operating rules
3. Open groove
4. Deep groove
5. Narrow groove
6. End surface
7. Curved edges
8. Decorative finishing

Purchasing hand-held woodworking tools can give impetus to mastering a new and very exciting profession, which gathers more and more fans every year. Numerous video lessons and photos containing the author’s techniques for working with a hand router have been replicated on the Internet, which once again proves the popularization of a craft that Russians have loved for a long time. If you do not yet know all the basics of manual woodworking and are just getting acquainted with specialized household equipment, the following information will be useful to you.

What can you do with a hand router?

Of course, we are unlikely to be able to list all those useful things that can be made at home if you have a hand router, certain skills and desire due to the unlimited range of such crafts, but we will still mention the most common of them, and if necessary, you can easily find Photos of such homemade products on the Internet.

So, armed with a hand router, even a novice craftsman can easily cope with the manufacture of railings, all kinds of racks and shelves, hangers and stools. Now it has become fashionable to inhale new life into old, dilapidated furniture at home, and this process will definitely be within your power.

Also, a hand router will be indispensable where it is necessary to select grooves for future connections, insert a lock, and even create a fancy intricate pattern on the surface of the wood that serves as a decorative decoration. Even if you don’t plan to hold such a versatile tool in your hands around the clock, sooner or later it will definitely serve you well in everyday life.

Basics at work

The cutting depth here is regulated by a lifting mechanism that connects the two main parts of the router - the electric drive and the base. To be more precise, the parameters for deepening the cutter into the material being processed are set by setting a certain distance between the pin and the washer located next to the motor. To ensure that the milling machine maintains the same distance relative to the edge of the workpiece when moving, it is equipped with a straight guide. Some models are equipped with a circular guide, with which it is possible to mill circles with a large radius. For small circles (radius less than 15 cm), technological holes are provided on the base of the equipment into which a centering pin is inserted at a specified distance from the cutter.

Grooving is carried out using an angular stop mounted on the machine body at a right angle. Before starting work, the carpenter must ensure that the workpiece of the future product is in a stationary position, because the lack of reliable support will inevitably lead to the fact that the edges of the groove will be crooked, and this will negatively affect the final result of the work. Please note that it is not recommended to remove a layer of wood exceeding 5 mm in one pass. According to the technology, sufficiently deep grooves are selected in several steps. Working with a hand router on wood should be done smoothly, without haste or sudden movements, otherwise you will have to deal with such an unpleasant phenomenon as torn edges of the groove.

Setting up the tool and getting started

A wood router, like any other equipment, needs adjustment before starting the work process. First of all, remove the safety nut and the collet, after which the unit is started and a control cut is carried out. Next, check whether the screws and other threaded parts are tightened well and remove excess protective lubricant.

Beginners often make the mistake of not holding the milling machine tightly enough in their hands, or applying excessive force to the material being processed. At the corners of the workpiece, as well as when changing the direction of movement of the milling cutter, the speed of movement of the unit is not slowed down so as not to leave burns due to overheating of the machine.

Operating rules

Depending on the nature of the work performed, the carpenter chooses the method of carrying it out. For example, processing curved surfaces differs from decorating a wooden craft with an openwork pattern, and here the main thing is to follow the rules for using a particular technique, taking into account the peculiarities of a particular process. We have selected the most common cutting techniques for you, accompanying each method with thematic video material.

Open groove

If you plan to process the workpiece by forming a groove from the very edge, install the tool so that the cutting element hangs over the edge of the wood. Then you need to lower the knife to the specified depth and fix the position of the basket, after which the engine starts and the feed begins. When the edge is processed to the end, the cutter is raised and the lock is loosened, and only then the motor can be turned off. Blind grooves are formed in a similar way, with the only difference being that they do not start from the edge of the part.

Deep groove

In this case, after each pass of the processed area, it is necessary to adjust the new depth of immersion of the cutter into wood material, after turning off the router, and it is advisable that the depth does not exceed 5 mm. This rule especially applies to hard materials that require careful handling. The last layer should not exceed 1.5 mm, which will make it possible to create a clean surface.

Narrow groove

In this case, for greater ease of use, the wood is processed using an additional device. The process involved is to attach a flat base to the base of the unit. Guide rods are installed on both sides of the auxiliary plane to ensure a straight path of movement of the router, the main thing is that their axes are located in line with the center of the knife. If the craftsman uses an auxiliary device with the router, it must be guided so that the rods are evenly pressed against the sides of the workpiece.

End surface

Carpentry work on wood using a hand router often involves processing the ends of the workpiece, and here it is very important to get a clean edge. A practice-tested rule will come to the aid of the novice master, which states that initially a fairly shallow cut is made, and the tool is guided in the direction of rotation of the knife. With this design, the main part of the wood material will be selected evenly, after which you will clean the end in the usual way, moving the router against the direction of rotation of the cutting element, and appearance the workpiece will take on the desired shape.

Curved edges

Milling curved edges with a hand router is performed in a slightly different way, and here the master will need templates with a stop ring. The ring itself is a round plate with a side that moves along the template, giving the cutter the correct trajectory of movement. Such a part is fixed on the base of the tool using special fasteners, after which it can be used for its intended purpose.

Before starting the main process, the template must be fixed on the plane being processed, and this can be done using ordinary double-sided tape, after which the resulting structure is pressed against the work table with clamps. The use of templates allows you to create absolutely identical products from which you can make furniture or any other interior details.

Decorative finishing

Patterns on wood are designed to decorate carpentry, giving them a decorative “zest”. Artistic milling is perhaps the most interesting method of processing natural materials, because here craftsmen can fully give free rein to their imagination, and a manual machine will help cope with such a task without any problems. Wood is very malleable to work with; the main thing is to know how to process it correctly so that the result is truly worthy.

In addition to the router, you will need a vice, a jigsaw and a chisel, which you will have to use during the work. A wooden canvas with a pattern transferred from a picture or photo you like is fixed on a stable surface. A tool with a special cutting attachment is smoothly moved along the contour of the design, carefully removing a layer of wood, thereby giving it volume. Using different sized cutters will allow you to create different designs depending on your personal preference. Now you know how to work with a hand milling tool and can try it out in practice.

Beginning craftsmen who have just begun to get involved in such an interesting and difficult task as making furniture and other wood products are often lost and cannot understand what tool they need in this or that case. Yes, and understanding the rules of their operation completely independently is very problematic. We invite you to read a short instruction about one of the most indispensable tools in carpentry.

The main types of attachments used when working with a wood router and their purpose

There are only two main types of cutters, the division of which is based on the place of their use:

• Edges.
• Grooved.

Each of these species has a wide range of subspecies used for different purposes. The main difference between the main types is that the first has a guide bearing that rests against the edge of the part and prevents the nozzle blades from jumping off further than necessary. In the second type, this element is absent, so it can be used on any part of the product.

main types of cutters for a hand router
types of cutters for a hand router part 3

The following edge attachments exist:

1. Profile.

They are not used to create elements responsible for the integrity or strength of the structure. Their purpose is to create purely decorative elements, decoration of the edges of the product.

2. Conical.

Most often used to smooth out sharp edges. They cut a rectangular edge at a 45 degree angle.

3. Moulded.

Just like the previous option, they are used to smooth corners. Cut off the edge and turn it into a quarter-circle profile. The radius of the nozzle can vary from 3 mm to 1.6 cm.

4. Disk.

It is used when it is necessary to cut a straight recessed groove with the same width along the entire length.

5. Folded.

Necessary in cases of creating a rectangular edge along the edge of the product.

6. Fillet.

They have a strictly decorative purpose, creating rounded depressions along the edge.

Types of cutters for a hand router, part 2: working with a wood router, a hand router with a set of cutters

The following cutters are classified as slotted cutters:

1. Rectangular.

Most manual videos show the use of these particular attachments. With their help, smooth rectangular channels are created in the product. Used to create connecting grooves.

2. Fillet.

Cut out smooth channels with a rounded bottom. By and large, they are used only for decorative purposes.

3. Triangular (V-shaped).

When working with a wood router with such an attachment, smooth channels are cut out in shape resembling a triangle, the top of which is directed deep into the product. Best suited for cutting groove joints on thin workpieces.

4. Dovetail

They cut out channels, the bottom of which is wider than their upper part. With their help, very strong groove joints are made.

A training video about working with a hand router that will help you avoid mistakes

After watching a video about working with a hand router, you can easily figure out how to properly set up the tool, how to adjust the seating depth and the location of its cutter. In addition, you will learn safety rules that must be observed during work. Now let's look at other important nuances.

Tool movement direction

When working with a milling machine, many craftsmen do not recommend using this method, since there is a high risk of the tool coming off the workpiece. But he is the most the best option, which will help avoid fiber splitting, as well as pressing the edge of the product, which does not need processing. The attachment rotates clockwise, which means the tool should go counterclockwise. When moving in the direction of movement of the blades, there is a high risk of the above-mentioned problems occurring.

Nozzle rotation speed

This tool operates at fairly high speeds. But depending on what kind of wood is processed and what size of nozzle is used, the rotation speed will be selected. The softer the wood, the higher the speed selected. The larger the nozzle size, the slower the speed will be. Exact indicators are usually given in the instructions.

Working with this tool is not that difficult, and in return you will get the broadest opportunities. They can successfully replace even special professional equipment that is used in large factories.

Those who love carpentry, i.e. woodworking, should definitely know how to use a hand router. With the help of such a device you can create real masterpieces without any effort at all. However, this will require work skills and knowledge of what this tool consists of, how to assemble and disassemble it. Using a hand-held wood router, you can create a beautiful door, decorative furniture or other original objects. You can even open your own business making a variety of wood products.

Types of milling work

The milling cutter is a unique device that makes a large number of rotations per second, while creating holes of the required diameter and shape. Work performed divided into several categories. The holes that are created by a router are almost always part of a detachable or one-piece structure that decorates the product.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the work carried out using a router.

• Profiling of products such as cornices, platbands, skirting boards, glazing beads, etc. is carried out using an edge. Such work is suitable for furniture manufacturers. This is a great solution for decorating wood products.
• Decorating the edges of complex products using a router helps create an exclusive product. A professional can even create a masterpiece. For beginners, a video will help in this case. This process is necessarily carried out using templates. They help create identical patterns over large areas.
• Using a wood router, simple everyday problems can be solved. For example, it is necessary to make recesses for locks or for awnings. A special milling cutter is used for this, but for home work you can also use hand tools.

All woodwork is carried out with special cutters. They are selected based on the type of work that will need to be carried out and the type of wood that is milled. On the Internet you can find a large number of videos that explain in detail and clearly show what a cutter looks like and how to choose it correctly.

The cutter is a component of the router and represents shank and working element with cutting edge. They are distinguished by:

• cutting edge shape;
• the type of material from which they are made;
• size;
• designs.

Thus, for working on soft wood, lightweight materials for the cutter are needed. And for making an object from hard wood, preference is given to “hard” cutters.

There are cutters:

• cone-shaped;
• V-shaped;
• disk;
• Swallow's nest cutters;
• profile;
• rectangular grooved;
• moulding;
• folded;
• fillets.

In addition, cutters are divided into those that direct movement and have bearings and those that do not. Using a hand-held milling cutter without bearings, work is carried out anywhere on the workpiece.

Installation of cutter

Once the required template has been found, further woodworking should be carried out using a hand router. For this purpose, they select install the correct cutter. This is done in the following sequence:

How to do the job correctly with a hand router

A large number of electrical devices for construction and repair carry out their work by rotating the shaft. A hand router makes a large number of revolutions per second. It is generally accepted that woodworking will be done cleaner by a router if there are as many revolutions as possible. In fact, this is a misconception. The object may become charred and break if the speed controller is installed incorrectly or when working with a large diameter cutter.

That is why for each type of work and material it is necessary to select and set a certain number of revolutions per second. The work will be carried out much cleaner if the ratio of the speed of movement of the cutter relative to the wood that is being cut is correctly selected.

Work with a manual router is carried out by placing it on a special table or simply holding it in your hands. Small workpieces are usually milled on a stationary table. This helps to complete the work without any defects. The router is installed on such a table with the spindle up.

In order for milling on the table to be performed without errors, it is necessary:

• Place rulers on the surface of the table to match the shape that will need to be cut;
• narrow rulers with an oval end are necessary for working with parts of variable profile and they are attached to the table surface perpendicular to the workpiece.

It should be remembered that when working with a hand router, it must be moved in the opposite direction relative to the movement of the cutter. Otherwise, the tool often breaks out of your hands and causes injury.

Compliance with safety regulations

A hand router for wood is a must requires compliance with safety regulations so as not to cause harm to health:

Conclusion

It is quite difficult to learn how to make wood products using a hand router. Best to study video lessons with necessary instructions . Do not forget that this is a rather dangerous tool that can cause serious injury. That is why it is important to follow safety precautions, be attentive and careful.